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REC: Wet and wild garlic risotto
The ramson (Allium ursinum, wild garlic, bear's leek, Bärlauch, ail des
ours, erba orsina etc.) season has started here. "Wet" garlic is also widely available. So, a risotto with three kinds of garlic was a part of last night's dinner. The recipe is from <http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2011/apr/04/wet-wild-garlic-risotto-recipe>. Notes: Ramsons should be cooked very briefly, if at all, lest they lose much of their taste and aroma. Ramsons are native to Europe and Asia, but not to America and are unlikely to be available there. From what I gather, ramps (Allium tricoccum), which are native to America, will probably provide an adequate substitution. I used Acquerello Carnaroli rice, white wine (not vermouth), chicken stock, and pecorino romano (not parmesan). I added the ramsons (cut into a chiffonade, not "chopped roughly") at the very end, together with the butter and the cheese; cooking ramsons for much longer than a few minutes will destroy their taste. This was a very good dish, but maybe making it with just ramsons - or perhaps even better, with ramson pesto - omitting the garlic, would have been even better. Victor Wet and wild garlic risotto recipe Three kinds of garlic in a meltingly gorgeous risotto Jane Baxter's wet and wild garlic risotto Cooking time: around 25 mins depending on your rice Serves: 2-3 as a main course, 4 as a side 1 knob butter 1 tbsp olive oil 3 bulbs wet garlic, sliced thinly 2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped 1 small onion, peeled and finely chopped 250g risotto rice (arborio) Salt and pepper A splash of white wine or vermouth 1 litre hot vegetable or chicken stock 1 large handful wild garlic leaves, washed and roughly chopped 30g butter 50g Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra for serving Wild garlic flowers, to garnish (optional) Gently heat a large cooking pot, add the knob of butter and oil, and gently sweat the wet garlic, normal garlic and the onion for about 10 minutes without letting it colour. Add the rice, turn up the heat and cook, stirring, until the rice is coated with the garlicky onion mix. Season, add the wine and stir until it has been absorbed. Add enough stock just to cover the rice, stir and turn down the heat. Maintain the rice at a gentle simmer and stir until the stock has been absorbed. Repeat, adding stock and stirring, for 10 minutes. Add the wild garlic leaves, stir into the rice and continue adding more stock as before. After five minutes more, when the rice is just cooked but still has some bite, remove from the heat and stir in the butter and cheese. Season, and serve topped with a sprinkling of extra cheese and some wild garlic flowers, if the fancy takes you. -- Jane Baxter is head chef of the award-winning Riverford Field Kitchen in Devon |
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