An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
"On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
its juices."

I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
from now on?

--
Harlan Messinger
Remove the first dot from my e-mail address.
Veuillez ôter le premier point de mon adresse de courriel.

"Harlan Messinger" > wrote in message
...
> An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> its juices."
>
> I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> from now on?
>

The browning is important because the high heat causes the formation of many
flavor compunds in the surface of the meat, resulting in a much tastier end
product. Do not skip it!


--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.

Harlan Messinger wrote:

> An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> its juices."
>
> I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> from now on?

Any method that brings heat to meat will cause loss of moisture.
Protein shrinks and releases its captive water-based juices. Searing
is for developing the Maillard reactions that add that wonderful depth
of flavor. There is no sealing of juices no matter the method, tools,
coatings or anything else is brought to bear. Cooking meat releases
juices.

You'll still see recipes and even live cooks talking about sealing in
the juices. When that happens, you know what you're dealing with.

Pastorio

In article > ,
"Peter Aitken" > wrote:

> The browning is important because the high heat causes the formation of many
> flavor compunds in the surface of the meat, resulting in a much tastier end
> product. Do not skip it!

Alton Brown's response was to sear the meat as the *last* step, so you
get the flavor, but don't continue to lose moisture from meat "damaged"
from the high heat.

--
to respond (OT only), change "spamless.invalid" to "optonline.net"

<http://www.thecoffeefaq.com/>

"Scott" > wrote in message
...
> In article > ,
> "Peter Aitken" > wrote:
>
> > The browning is important because the high heat causes the formation of
many
> > flavor compunds in the surface of the meat, resulting in a much tastier
end
> > product. Do not skip it!
>
> Alton Brown's response was to sear the meat as the *last* step, so you
> get the flavor, but don't continue to lose moisture from meat "damaged"
> from the high heat.
>

But the point, which you obviously missed, is that you do *not* lose
moisture from browned meat. In any case, browning as a last step will
prevent the flavors created from being part of the sauce.


--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.

"Bob (this one)" > wrote in message
...
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
> > An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> > "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> > as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> > next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> > renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> > by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> > its juices."
> >
> > I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> > before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> > these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> > pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> > juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> > from now on?
>
> Any method that brings heat to meat will cause loss of moisture.
> Protein shrinks and releases its captive water-based juices. Searing
> is for developing the Maillard reactions that add that wonderful depth
> of flavor. There is no sealing of juices no matter the method, tools,
> coatings or anything else is brought to bear. Cooking meat releases
> juices.
>
> You'll still see recipes and even live cooks talking about sealing in
> the juices. When that happens, you know what you're dealing with.

OK, thanks, all!

Peter Aitken wrote:

> "Scott" > wrote in message
> ...
> > In article > ,
> > "Peter Aitken" > wrote:
> >
> > > The browning is important because the high heat causes the
> > > formation of
> many
> > > flavor compunds in the surface of the meat, resulting in a much
> > > tastier
> end
> > > product. Do not skip it!
> >
> > Alton Brown's response was to sear the meat as the last step, so you
> > get the flavor, but don't continue to lose moisture from meat
> > "damaged" from the high heat.
> >
>
> But the point, which you obviously missed, is that you do not lose
> moisture from browned meat. In any case, browning as a last step will
> prevent the flavors created from being part of the sauce.


It didn't address searing as in using a hot pan, but rather the
frequent suggestion of starting with a very hot oven to brown the
outside, then lowering the temp.

Alton's studies showed (or claimed to show) that it was better to start
in a low oven, cook until done, rest, then brown the outside in a hot
oven.



Brian

Harlan Messinger
> > wrote:

>>
>> Is the
>>pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
>>juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
>>from now on?
>
> I've always thought that was an old wives' tale.

You can skip it, but you skip the benefits also. When you brown meat, it
caramelizes the sugars and it concentrates flavors. While skipping that
step will still cook the met, there is some loss of flavor and if making a
gravy, it will be more bland as th ere will be no fonds in the pan.

Choice is your. Try it both ways and see what you like.

Searing and Sealing


The purpose of sealing meats at high heat is to create desirable flavor and
color by browning the meats' surfaces. It was long believed that searing the
surface of meat "seals the pores", keeping in juices. This does not
actually happen. Meat does not have pores but is an open network of fibers.
Think of the surface of a steak as resembling the cut end of a thick rope.
There are no pores to seal. It is true that heavy browning creates a kind of
crust on the surface of the meat, but this crust is no more waterproof than
an unbrowned surface.



Roasts cooked from the start at a low temperature retain more juices than
roasts that are seared at high heat first.



Steaks, chops, and cutlets cooked very quickly at high heat retain more
moisture at first because the intense heat drives the juices away from the
hot surface into the meat. This permits browning, because moisture would
create steam and inhibit browning. However, overcooked steaks will be dry
whether or not the steak was seared.

Harlan Messinger wrote:

> An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> its juices."
>
> I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> from now on?
>

You can skip the searing and cook your meat in the liquid. It was be
cooked, but I don't think it will be as nice or taste as good. My wife
taught me the art of braising. She was always good at it and makes
incredible beef stew, ox tails and beef short ribs. It helps to get a
nice rich colour and taste. Long slow cooking gives it the texture.

"Dave Smith" > wrote in message
...
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
> > An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> > "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> > as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> > next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> > renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> > by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> > its juices."
> >
> > I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> > before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> > these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> > pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> > juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> > from now on?
> >
>
> You can skip the searing and cook your meat in the liquid. It was be
> cooked, but I don't think it will be as nice or taste as good. My wife
> taught me the art of braising. She was always good at it and makes
> incredible beef stew, ox tails and beef short ribs. It helps to get a
> nice rich colour and taste. Long slow cooking gives it the texture.
>

I too love short ribs, oxtails, and the like. If you have never tried beef
cheeks, you ought to.


--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.

"Dave Smith" > wrote in message
...
> Harlan Messinger wrote:
>
> > An article in this month's Gourmet discusses Harold McGee, author of
> > "On Food and Cooking", which many restaurant kitchens, reportedly, use
> > as a bible, and which is coming out in an entirely reworked edition
> > next month. According to the article, "the original [edition] is
> > renowned for having destroyed the myth, popularized in the mid-1800s
> > by German chemist Justus von Liebig, that searing meat would seal in
> > its juices."
> >
> > I've made any number of current recipes that call for browning meat
> > before braising or stewing it. Is McGee mistaken? Are the authors of
> > these recipes out of touch with modern science on the subject? Is the
> > pre-searing being done for some reason other than to seal in the
> > juices? Or can I safely skip the inconvenience of the browning step
> > from now on?
> >
>
> You can skip the searing and cook your meat in the liquid. It was be
> cooked, but I don't think it will be as nice or taste as good. My wife
> taught me the art of braising. She was always good at it and makes
> incredible beef stew, ox tails and beef short ribs. It helps to get a
> nice rich colour and taste. Long slow cooking gives it the texture.
>

I too love short ribs, oxtails, and the like. If you have never tried beef
cheeks, you ought to.


--
Peter Aitken

Remove the crap from my email address before using.