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Default Alternatives to trans-fat that are used in restaurants in Europe?

Reading about the upheaval caused in the restaurant trade by the ban on
trans fats in NYC, I was wondering whether say a fine restaurant in
Paris also uses Crisco-style shortening for their tarte tatin. And if
they don't, how come American restaurants are struggling so much to
reproduce the taste and texture of something that was inferior in the
first place to the original (ie. they're working hard to make the food
taste like it was cooked with trans fats)? I'm thinking of french
fries, cookies, pastries of any kind... the original recipe couldn't
have used hydrogenated oils because that didn't exist at the time...

 
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