I'm planning an outdoor cooker. I saw a couple in Mexico last week that
were interesting, and may have me rethinking this.

I had thought of a large brick one, which would give mass and hence heat
retention. Also higher cost, and more construction.

Then I saw these, and they are basically firebox, smoker box, and connector,
made out of light metal.

Some of the Brinkmans that I have seen, particularly the bullet variety, are
just thin sheet metal, as the point is to have a fire, but a controlled low
temperature fire.

In your humble opinion, is it most important to have mass, thermal
retention, good smoke/heat transference, smoke-tightness in the joints, all
of the above, or other.

I have a metal shop, and can fab just about anything out of metal, it just
becomes as a built in ...... too heavy to move. But I could mount it on a
new little trailer I got, and it would be easy to roll around where and when
I need it, and even take it to friends, parties, etc.

Do I need to go with the large brick variety, or would I achieve the same
thing with just a metal frame or pipe/frame/sheet metal variation? That
way, on a trailer, I'd have room for a cutting table, etc.

Thoughts, please.

Steve

On Wed, 1 Feb 2012 10:04:27 -0800, "Steve B" > wrote:

>I'm planning an outdoor cooker. I saw a couple in Mexico last week that
>were interesting, and may have me rethinking this.
>
>I had thought of a large brick one, which would give mass and hence heat
>retention. Also higher cost, and more construction.
>
>Then I saw these, and they are basically firebox, smoker box, and connector,
>made out of light metal.
>
>Some of the Brinkmans that I have seen, particularly the bullet variety, are
>just thin sheet metal, as the point is to have a fire, but a controlled low
>temperature fire.
>
>In your humble opinion, is it most important to have mass, thermal
>retention, good smoke/heat transference, smoke-tightness in the joints, all
>of the above, or other.
>
>I have a metal shop, and can fab just about anything out of metal, it just
>becomes as a built in ...... too heavy to move. But I could mount it on a
>new little trailer I got, and it would be easy to roll around where and when
>I need it, and even take it to friends, parties, etc.
>
>Do I need to go with the large brick variety, or would I achieve the same
>thing with just a metal frame or pipe/frame/sheet metal variation? That
>way, on a trailer, I'd have room for a cutting table, etc.
>
>Thoughts, please.
>
>Steve
>


You can get to the grocery store in a '63 VW bug, a Chevy Impala, or a
Porsche.

I don't think you can find a better cooker than a brick pit. That
said, a good metal pit with heavy wall steel can do a great job and be
portable. Avoid the thin sheet metal like the Brinkmann because you
do want some thermal mass. If you check out the top quality metal
pits, you'll find they are rather heavy. I've seen 1/4" steel for the
cooking portion with 1/2" steel for the fire box.

You have to sort out what you really want as the end result.

On Feb 1, 6:50*pm, Ed Pawlowski > wrote:
>
> You have to sort out what you really want as the end result. *- Hide quoted text -
>

Exactly, it's all give and take. And yeah, mine is 1/4 steel with a
1/2" firebox. All that mass is a blessing, once things get going that
is.

And make sure to pay attention to air flow. Suspect that would be easy
to mess up, and you will likely have to fool around with the exhaust
stack(s) after it's built. And can imagine some designs being beyond
reasonable repair. But you can see all sort of variations, mines got
2x 6"X6" exhaust stacks, and it needs both open to function well.
Have seen othercookers of about the same size with much less exhaust
area. Don't know why, lid shape? *shrug*

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote

> You have to sort out what you really want as the end result.

1. Function - I want it to work well. Consistently.
2. Mobility - maybe. It would be nice to take to other places, but also
nice to have it stationary, and not have the problems mobility brings with
it.
3. Simplicity of function and design, achieving a consistent final result
without some huge contraption.
4. Size - I don't think I'll be doing half a pig any time soon, but I have
learned that one soon outgrows current needs if they like the device. Don't
want it so big that it has problems cooking smaller items, nor so small that
it won't hold big stuff.

OR, I'll do both.

Steve

www.heartsurgerysurvivalguide.com

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

> You can get to the grocery store in a '63 VW bug, a Chevy Impala, or a
> Porsche.
>
> I don't think you can find a better cooker than a brick pit. That
> said, a good metal pit with heavy wall steel can do a great job and be
> portable. Avoid the thin sheet metal like the Brinkmann because you
> do want some thermal mass. If you check out the top quality metal
> pits, you'll find they are rather heavy. I've seen 1/4" steel for the
> cooking portion with 1/2" steel for the fire box.
>
> You have to sort out what you really want as the end result.

One of the ceramic pits would do very well with thermal mass issues. Plus
they can be moved.....not easily, but they can be moved.

--
Dave
"A human being should be able to change a diaper, plan an invasion,
butcher a hog, conn a ship, design a building, write a sonnet, balance
accounts, build a wall, set a bone, comfort the dying, take orders,
give orders, cooperate, act alone, solve equations, analyze a new
problem, pitch manure, program a computer, cook a tasty meal, fight
efficiently, die gallantly. Specialization is for insects."......
Robert Heinlein

Steve B wrote

1. Function - I want it to work well. Consistently.
2. Mobility - maybe. It would be nice to take to other places, but also
nice to have it stationary, and not have the problems mobility brings with
it.
3. Simplicity of function and design, achieving a consistent final result
without some huge contraption.
4. Size - I don't think I'll be doing half a pig any time soon, but I have
learned that one soon outgrows current needs if they like the device. Don't
want it so big that it has problems cooking smaller items, nor so small that
it won't hold big stuff.

OR, I'll do both.

Steve

IMO it's the cook and not the cooker that makes the difference tween great BBQ and the mediocre stuff. I know some fellows who spent tons on their cookers and turn out mediocre stuff. And then there's the fellows who own much cheaper cookers and they turn out great BBQ. it's all in what you know about making great BBQ, you're knowledge of how your cooker works and then using it to cook great BBQ. IMO, making great BBQ is an art, not a science so it's not a 1-2-3 process like maybe changing the spark plugs on your car.

Mobility for me has never been an issue. If I have BBQ to serve to folks at another location, I still cook it up here at the house and then lug it over to the whing-ding. I just don't see the need to lug along a cooker, even if it's on a trailer. If it's too much to lug, I tell em the location has changed to my picnic tables outback and they can decide if they want to eat or not. I can be gracious... to a point. Past that, it's my way and that's that.

Likewise, the cooker size is subjective. If you're always cooking for tons of folks a big cooker might make sense. If you're just doing it once in a while, cooking in shifts may be the answer. BTW, I cook 60 lb splayed piglets on my cooker with no problems.

DISCLAIMER: I cook in a 55 gallon steel drum. Been cooking that way since my Daddy started teaching me to BBQ at the age of 5. I'm 63 now. It's thin-skinned, has air leaks and eats up bunches of wood. But, it cooks great BBQ that everyone enjoys and they always comes running for more when I holler for them to huddle up. You may not agree with me and that's okay. Everyone has their own opinions.

-frohe

"frohe49" > wrote
>
> IMO it's the cook and not the cooker that makes the difference tween
> great BBQ and the mediocre stuff. I know some fellows who spent tons on
> their cookers and turn out mediocre stuff. And then there's the fellows
> who own much cheaper cookers and they turn out great BBQ. it's all in
> what you know about making great BBQ, you're knowledge of how your
> cooker works and then using it to cook great BBQ. IMO, making great BBQ
> is an art, not a science so it's not a 1-2-3 process like maybe changing
> the spark plugs on your car.
>
> Mobility for me has never been an issue. If I have BBQ to serve to
> folks at another location, I still cook it up here at the house and then
> lug it over to the whing-ding. I just don't see the need to lug along a
> cooker, even if it's on a trailer. If it's too much to lug, I tell em
> the location has changed to my picnic tables outback and they can decide
> if they want to eat or not. I can be gracious... to a point. Past
> that, it's my way and that's that.
>
> Likewise, the cooker size is subjective. If you're always cooking for
> tons of folks a big cooker might make sense. If you're just doing it
> once in a while, cooking in shifts may be the answer. BTW, I cook 60 lb
> splayed piglets on my cooker with no problems.
>
> DISCLAIMER: I cook in a 55 gallon steel drum. Been cooking that way
> since my Daddy started teaching me to BBQ at the age of 5. I'm 63 now.
> It's thin-skinned, has air leaks and eats up bunches of wood. But, it
> cooks great BBQ that everyone enjoys and they always comes running for
> more when I holler for them to huddle up. You may not agree with me and
> that's okay. Everyone has their own opinions.
>
> -frohe

Thanks. Those are helpful things. I believe it has simplified my initial
approach.

Steve

On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, bbq > wrote:

>>
>
>Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4 also.
>
>BBQ


Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
that is where it will be used.

"Ed Pawlowski" > wrote in message
news
> On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, bbq > wrote:
>
>>>
>>
>>Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>>legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>>caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4 also.
>>
>>BBQ
>
>
> Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
> that is where it will be used.

Casters are about as valuable as a tit on top of your head. Larger wheels
are the way to go.

Steve

On 2/27/2012 10:58 AM, Steve B wrote:
> "Ed > wrote in message
> news
>> On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, > wrote:
>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>>> legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>>> caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4 also.
>>>
>>> BBQ
>>
>>
>> Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
>> that is where it will be used.
>
> Casters are about as valuable as a tit on top of your head. Larger wheels
> are the way to go.
>
> Steve
>
>


I have not tried it on my WSM. But yea, if the casters are small,
narrow, moving it around on a not flat, not hard surface would be a PIA.

My thoughts were using 3 inch rubber casters, wheels being about an inch
wide. Larger wheels would need some kind of axle.

BBQ
--
Vegetarian

An old Indian term for poor hunter...

"bbq" > wrote in message
.com...
> On 2/27/2012 10:58 AM, Steve B wrote:
>> "Ed > wrote in message
>> news
>>> On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, > wrote:
>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>>>> legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>>>> caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4 also.
>>>>
>>>> BBQ
>>>
>>>
>>> Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
>>> that is where it will be used.
>>
>> Casters are about as valuable as a tit on top of your head. Larger
>> wheels
>> are the way to go.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>
>
> I have not tried it on my WSM. But yea, if the casters are small, narrow,
> moving it around on a not flat, not hard surface would be a PIA.
>
> My thoughts were using 3 inch rubber casters, wheels being about an inch
> wide. Larger wheels would need some kind of axle.
>
> BBQ

I, of course, being a welder, would use a simple axle of cold rolled steel,
available at my supplier cheaply, and inflatable tires like are on a two
wheeled hand truck. Barbecues are used a lot in back yards, and in areas
that are not flat, hard, and even. Casters are possible, they just don't
work very good. Larger rubber wheels are much better, and sometimes
available at yard sales for cheap.


Steve

On 2/28/2012 11:17 AM, Steve B wrote:
> > wrote in message
> .com...
>> On 2/27/2012 10:58 AM, Steve B wrote:
>>> "Ed > wrote in message
>>> news >>>> On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, > wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>>>>> legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>>>>> caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4 also.
>>>>>
>>>>> BBQ
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
>>>> that is where it will be used.
>>>
>>> Casters are about as valuable as a tit on top of your head. Larger
>>> wheels
>>> are the way to go.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> I have not tried it on my WSM. But yea, if the casters are small, narrow,
>> moving it around on a not flat, not hard surface would be a PIA.
>>
>> My thoughts were using 3 inch rubber casters, wheels being about an inch
>> wide. Larger wheels would need some kind of axle.
>>
>> BBQ
>
> I, of course, being a welder, would use a simple axle of cold rolled steel,
> available at my supplier cheaply, and inflatable tires like are on a two
> wheeled hand truck. Barbecues are used a lot in back yards, and in areas
> that are not flat, hard, and even. Casters are possible, they just don't
> work very good. Larger rubber wheels are much better, and sometimes
> available at yard sales for cheap.
>
>
> Steve
>
>


Sounds like you got skills and access to tools to do something fancy.
My WSM is used exclusively on a patio. One patio is made of patio
bricks and was built 25 years ago. So lots of settling in some spots.
The other patio is poured concrete. Built 20 years ago. Still in good
shape, except for the edge between the poured concrete patio and the
patio brick patio. About a 1/2 inch lip between them. Not gonna redo
the patio, pulling up all the patio bricks, putting some sand down to
level it out better. Too much work for me...

I can do some handyman type things, but sometimes things just don't work
as well as I want them to. Or be built in the time I think it could
be... It's nice to have a "heads up" on a better way. Thanks.

BBQ
--
Vegetarian

An old Indian term for poor hunter...

"bbq" > wrote in message
...
> On 2/28/2012 11:17 AM, Steve B wrote:
>> > wrote in message
>> .com...
>>> On 2/27/2012 10:58 AM, Steve B wrote:
>>>> "Ed > wrote in message
>>>> news >>>>> On Sun, 26 Feb 2012 23:07:58 -0600, > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Drill a hole in each of the legs. Bolt a board about 15X15 to these
>>>>>> legs. Add casters to that board. I would suggest having at least 1
>>>>>> caster that locked. I would use 3 casters. But you could use 4
>>>>>> also.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BBQ
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Be sure the wheels are big enough to roll over the grass or dirt if
>>>>> that is where it will be used.
>>>>
>>>> Casters are about as valuable as a tit on top of your head. Larger
>>>> wheels
>>>> are the way to go.
>>>>
>>>> Steve
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have not tried it on my WSM. But yea, if the casters are small,
>>> narrow,
>>> moving it around on a not flat, not hard surface would be a PIA.
>>>
>>> My thoughts were using 3 inch rubber casters, wheels being about an inch
>>> wide. Larger wheels would need some kind of axle.
>>>
>>> BBQ
>>
>> I, of course, being a welder, would use a simple axle of cold rolled
>> steel,
>> available at my supplier cheaply, and inflatable tires like are on a two
>> wheeled hand truck. Barbecues are used a lot in back yards, and in areas
>> that are not flat, hard, and even. Casters are possible, they just don't
>> work very good. Larger rubber wheels are much better, and sometimes
>> available at yard sales for cheap.
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
>
>
> Sounds like you got skills and access to tools to do something fancy. My
> WSM is used exclusively on a patio. One patio is made of patio bricks and
> was built 25 years ago. So lots of settling in some spots.
> The other patio is poured concrete. Built 20 years ago. Still in good
> shape, except for the edge between the poured concrete patio and the patio
> brick patio. About a 1/2 inch lip between them. Not gonna redo the patio,
> pulling up all the patio bricks, putting some sand down to level it out
> better. Too much work for me...
>
> I can do some handyman type things, but sometimes things just don't work
> as well as I want them to. Or be built in the time I think it could be...
> It's nice to have a "heads up" on a better way. Thanks.
>
> BBQ


It's this easy:

Hard surfaces, hard tires ( of any type )
Soft surfaces, soft tires ( of any type )

Triangulation between the wheels ( making rigid connections ) helps out in
every situation.

Steve

HTH

Steve