I am about to modify my WSM to have a 1/2 NPT mount for my
Trend thermometer so I don't have to keep dangling it out
of the top vent holes. I plan to use a brass fitting that
houses 1/2" NPT plug found on the stern of most boats for
a drain plug. It seems like the perfect thing to use so I
can mount it when needed and remove it easily. I have three
questions.

1. Is there something better? I looked around Home Depot
yesterday and didn't see anything.

2. Is brass against the WSM material going to cause any
inter-metal issues with corrosion or other bad reaction?

3. What's the best method to drill a 3/4" hole into the
WSM without damage to the enamel if I don't want to buy
the Unibit drill mentioned on the Virtual Weber Bullet
mods page?

Thanks.

--
- Kyle

In article <ceJtc.9209$eY2.5772@attbi_s02>, (Kyle
Tucker) wrote:

> I am about to modify my WSM to have a 1/2 NPT mount for my
> Trend thermometer so I don't have to keep dangling it out
> of the top vent holes. I plan to use a brass fitting that
> houses 1/2" NPT plug found on the stern of most boats for
> a drain plug. It seems like the perfect thing to use so I
> can mount it when needed and remove it easily. I have three
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there something better? I looked around Home Depot
> yesterday and didn't see anything.
>
> 2. Is brass against the WSM material going to cause any
> inter-metal issues with corrosion or other bad reaction?
>
> 3. What's the best method to drill a 3/4" hole into the
> WSM without damage to the enamel if I don't want to buy
> the Unibit drill mentioned on the Virtual Weber Bullet
> mods page?
>
If it has the porcelainized coating, you'll do better with a grinding
type bit at a slow speed, rather than using a Unibit or a regular
cutting bit. Get a Dremel grinding bit and chuck it up into a regular
variable speed drill and go slow. And do wear safety glasses-that
coating shatters like glass.

monroe(not too sold on Unibits)

"Kyle Tucker" > wrote in message
news:ceJtc.9209$eY2.5772@attbi_s02...
> I am about to modify my WSM to have a 1/2 NPT mount for my
> Trend thermometer so I don't have to keep dangling it out
> of the top vent holes. I plan to use a brass fitting that
> houses 1/2" NPT plug found on the stern of most boats for
> a drain plug. It seems like the perfect thing to use so I
> can mount it when needed and remove it easily. I have three
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there something better? I looked around Home Depot
> yesterday and didn't see anything.

I used an electrical locknut for a 1/2" knockout fitting. Works fine.
>
> 2. Is brass against the WSM material going to cause any
> inter-metal issues with corrosion or other bad reaction?

Likely not. Everything gets covered with grease and smoke byproducts pretty
quickly, anyways.
>
> 3. What's the best method to drill a 3/4" hole into the
> WSM without damage to the enamel if I don't want to buy
> the Unibit drill mentioned on the Virtual Weber Bullet
> mods page?

The Unibit works best. There are other techniques outlined on the Weber
Bullet site, such as using a knockout punch. You could also post on the
Virtual baord and see if anyone lives close to you that could lend you a
Unibit. Or, you could try a 3/4" holesaw if you're brave.

My WSM thermometer technology involves sticking a polder-type probe
through 2 one-inch-square cubes of raw potato and setting it on the
cooking grate so the probe doesn't touch any metal. Needs something
(extra lawn chair?) next to the smoker to set the readout part of the
thermometer on, since the cable doesn't reach far enough to set the
readout on the ground. The biggest advatage of this advanced technology
is that I get a true reading of temperature at the cooking surface. I do
seem to end up with a lot of broken thermometers, so the downside may be
that crimping the cable between the probe and the readout, by closing
the lid on it, eventually wears it out. Of course, when I become a true
aficionado I will hunt down and arrest people who even think of using
thermometers in the barbecue process, but so far I'm not confident
enough of my theory that the WSM's just right when I can rest my hand on
the center of the lid and count off 3 seconds but no more, without
feeling pain.

"Douglas Barber" > wrote in message
...
> My WSM thermometer technology involves sticking a polder-type probe
> through 2 one-inch-square cubes of raw potato and setting it on the
> cooking grate so the probe doesn't touch any metal. Needs something
> (extra lawn chair?) next to the smoker to set the readout part of the
> thermometer on, since the cable doesn't reach far enough to set the
> readout on the ground. The biggest advatage of this advanced technology
> is that I get a true reading of temperature at the cooking surface. I do
> seem to end up with a lot of broken thermometers, so the downside may be
> that crimping the cable between the probe and the readout, by closing
> the lid on it, eventually wears it out. Of course, when I become a true
> aficionado I will hunt down and arrest people who even think of using
> thermometers in the barbecue process, but so far I'm not confident
> enough of my theory that the WSM's just right when I can rest my hand on
> the center of the lid and count off 3 seconds but no more, without
> feeling pain.
>

I find the best high-tech support for the readout is an upside-down plastic
5-gallon bucket. When I was still using the ECB I would set my charcoal
chimney on top of the lid, and attach the Polder's magnet to it - kept the
readout away from the heat. The thermometer I use now doesn't have the
magnet, though.

"Kyle Tucker" > wrote in message
news:ceJtc.9209$eY2.5772@attbi_s02...
> I am about to modify my WSM to have a 1/2 NPT mount for my
> Trend thermometer so I don't have to keep dangling it out
> of the top vent holes. I plan to use a brass fitting that
> houses 1/2" NPT plug found on the stern of most boats for
> a drain plug. It seems like the perfect thing to use so I
> can mount it when needed and remove it easily. I have three
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there something better? I looked around Home Depot
> yesterday and didn't see anything.
>
> 2. Is brass against the WSM material going to cause any
> inter-metal issues with corrosion or other bad reaction?
>
> 3. What's the best method to drill a 3/4" hole into the
> WSM without damage to the enamel if I don't want to buy
> the Unibit drill mentioned on the Virtual Weber Bullet
> mods page?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> - Kyle

Harbor Freight Tools sells a cheap knockoff of the Unibit for $12.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=44460

On 28-May-2004, (Kyle Tucker) wrote:

> I am about to modify my WSM to have a 1/2 NPT mount for my
> Trend thermometer so I don't have to keep dangling it out
> of the top vent holes. I plan to use a brass fitting that
> houses 1/2" NPT plug found on the stern of most boats for
> a drain plug. It seems like the perfect thing to use so I
> can mount it when needed and remove it easily. I have three
> questions.
>
> 1. Is there something better? I looked around Home Depot
> yesterday and didn't see anything.
>
> 2. Is brass against the WSM material going to cause any
> inter-metal issues with corrosion or other bad reaction?
>
> 3. What's the best method to drill a 3/4" hole into the
> WSM without damage to the enamel if I don't want to buy
> the Unibit drill mentioned on the Virtual Weber Bullet
> mods page?
>
> Thanks.
>
> --
> - Kyle

Ideally Kyle, I'd use a hole punch. They make a nice clean
hole, but are cost prohibitive for just one hole. My second
choice would be a hole saw. Again however, the quality
of the tool required to cut through a WSM would be cost
prohibitive for just one hole. An ordinary drill that large is
likely to damage the surrounding porcelein. Find out if there
is a sheet metal shop nearby that can/will help you out. I'd
just use an ordinary drill to cut a hole in an oil drum or
garbage can, but not a nice porcelein coated WSM.

--
M&M ("If it can be ruined, I've probably done it")

On 28-May-2004, Douglas Barber > wrote:
<snip>
> The biggest advatage of this advanced technology
> is that I get a true reading of temperature at the cooking surface. I do
> seem to end up with a lot of broken thermometers, so the downside may be
> that crimping the cable between the probe and the readout, by closing
> the lid on it, eventually wears it out.
<snip>

Thanks Douglas. I got a good chuckle from your post, but not because
of what you wrote. Rather is was a reminder of a long past post complaining
about failed probe readout units. Seems the fellow was sticking the
magnetized readout to the barrel of his cooker. Concerning your possible
cable damage, I've never had that problem either with my barrel smoker
or my offset pit. The most common complaint I've read is failure caused
by getting the probe/cable wet at the point where they connect. My first
probe therm is many years old now with nary a probe failure.
--
M&M ("When You're Over The Hill You Pick Up Speed")

M&M wrote:
> Concerning your possible
> cable damage [on polder-type thermometers], I've never had that problem either with my barrel smoker
> or my offset pit. The most common complaint I've read is failure caused
> by getting the probe/cable wet at the point where they connect. My first
> probe therm is many years old now with nary a probe failure.

I'd never heard this before and it makes better sense than my idea that
passing the cable between smoker and lid is the culprit. When I wash the
probe I've never worried about getting the connection between probe and
cable wet, I probably drench it every time....not to mention leaving
them out in the weather more times that I'd care to remember.

Thanks for the tip.