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williamwaller
 
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Default Taking the Artisan Out of Artisanal

On 3/12/04 3:37 PM, "Janet Bostwick" > wrote:

>
> "Charles Perry" > wrote in message
> ...
> snip>
>> The best example of a corporate rolling incremental food disaster
>> that I can think of is Chicken Mcnuggets. Over the space of a
>> decade or more that product went from breaded chunks of chicken
>> breast that were quite good, for what they were, to something
>> unfit for this humans consumption. One cost saving step at a
>> time, they devolved from what appeared to be chunks of whole
>> muscle meat to a bleached emulsion of skin, gristle, connective
>> tissue, various binders and possibly some meat. From the taste
>> there could have been feathers included too, for all I know.
>> Really awful stuff the last time I tasted them a few years ago.

>
> Oh, yum! Thanks for that. I don't eat them, but that description pretty
> much took care of an appetite for anything.
>
>> I fear that similar things will happen to the "brown and serve"
>> bread wholesalers when they are consolidated into large corporate
>> entities. After all, no one expects gourmet taste from something
>> in a Wonder Bread wrapper.

>
> snip
>
> And the above is what will happen. All excellent products are coveted by
> the big corporations and you really can't condemn the small to medium label
> owner for selling out for the really big bucks. The big guys keep the label
> and the changes are small at first, incremental as you said, until there is
> nothing left of the good stuff. But bread from the La Brea Bakery will end
> up being sold in China as a result of mass marketing.
>
> Janet
>
>

So once again we have proved the French are right. Our cultural aspirations
are reduced to lucre. Are we structurally unable to protect our emerging
bread renaissance? Would Poilane have embraced par-baked or "brown and
serve" bread? I don't think so. But then, I am still amazed at the dead zone
in the grocery store, Yes... I'm talking about aisles 1-15.

Remember to dedicate your next loaf to Nancy Silverton. She's moved on to
brioche.

Will
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