"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 22:50:10 -0400, "Joe Cilinceon"
> > wrote in >:
>
>>"Frank Gilliland" > wrote in message
. ..
>>> On Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:57:56 -0400, "Steve B."
>>> > wrote in
>>> > :
>>>
>>>>The sharpening speed and sharpness of edge are both much better with the
>>>>diamond. See http://users.ameritech.net/knives/speed.htm
>>>
>>>
>>> With a dry, 2-sided kitchen stone and a leather belt, it takes me all
>>> of 2 minutes to get a knife from dull as a wet noodle to razor sharp.
>>> Before anyone spends their hard-earned cash on some super-stone, pick
>>> up a couple cheapies at a hardware store, one medium and one fine, and
>>> just give it a little practice.
>>>
>>> Regardless.....
>>>
>>> It seems quite a few people have some goofy notions about sharpening
>>> knives. My grandpa taught me how to do it when I was barely old enough
>>> to walk and I've been doing it his way ever since without any problems
>>> at all. It works for everything, from pen-knives to double-bit axes.
>>> I'm sure that everyone has their own method, but for those that don't,
>>> here's a few tips from Grandpa Roedel:
>>>
>>> - It's best if the stone is as long as the knife. Not required, but it
>>> makes things go a lot faster. Standard two-sided kitchen stones are
>>> long enough for a 6" blade.
>>>
>>> - Don't use oil or water, it clogs up the stone. Just knock the dust
>>> off whenever you see it start to accumulate. If the stone gets oily by
>>> accident, wash it with some acetone or white gas.
>>>
>>> - Sharpen the knife by 'shaving' the stone. Take single strokes the
>>> full length of the stone, and draw the blade slightly to cover the
>>> full length of the blade with each stroke. Don't do circular motions
>>> or you will end up with a crooked surface on the stone that won't
>>> sharpen jack. Don't draw the blade backwards, either -- pick it up and
>>> bring it back for each stroke.
>>>
>>> - When you see black dust accumulate on the edge of the blade, dust
>>> off the blade and check for a 'burr'. The 'burr' forms on the edge
>>> opposite the one you are sharpening. When the burr runs the full
>>> length of the blade, flip over the blade and do the other side. When
>>> you get a burr on -that- side then switch to the fine stone and
>>> repeat.
>>>
>>> - When both sides will scrape dust the full length of the blade with
>>> the fine stone, take single, light strokes on alternate sides of the
>>> blade. You will notice that the burr changes sides with each stroke.
>>> Use lighter strokes each time until the burr is almost gone. That's
>>> when it's time to finish by drawing the blade -backwards- over some
>>> rawhide or lightly scuffed leather. The back side of a leather belt
>>> works fine. This will leave you with a razor sharp edge.
>>>
>>> - The blade will stay sharper longer if you rub some rust (yes, RUST)
>>> into the leather. I don't know why, it just does.
>>>
>>
>>Well I agree with your basic premise with the only exception of don't use
>>oil or water on the stone. I personally use Norton water stones which
>>require soaking before use (about 5 minutes).
>
>
> If it works. But I don't think I would use a water stone even if it
> worked because water tends to freeze where I live. That might shorten
> the life of the stone. Some people like to use oil, but it's messy
> because you are constantly oiling the stone, and I get just as good
> results with a dry stone. So that's what I do.
>
>
>> One other note is you need to
>>lap (flatten your stones regularly), simple due to the fact if the stone
>>isn't flat neither will your edge be.
>
>
> Yes, I did forget about that. I often forget to lap my stones (sounds
> kinda perverted). I also forgot about how to file a taper to the edge
> before you even get to the stones.....
>
> - DON'T draw the blade over the file like it was a sharpening stone.
> Clamp the blade, grab the file front and back, and use slow, single
> strokes forward. NEVER draw it backwards over the blade because that
> will dull your file in no time. Tap out the shavings from time to
> time, use a file card as needed, and don't use oil of ANY kind. If the
> file isn't cutting, use a sharp file instead.
>
>
>> I also use leather mounted to a hard
>>base with Chromium oxide (.5 microns - 60,000 grit) which really puts a
>>fine
>>polish on a knife.
>
>
> Again, whatever works. I prefer a hone instead of a polish but that's
> because I work mostly with wood. I'm guessing you work more with
> leather or plastics?
>
> Anyway, you obviously have some experience. Many haven't. I've seen
> many people who don't have any experience buy some fancy stone for
> mega-bucks, and when it doesn't wash the dishes they go looking for a
> more expensive stone. Eventually they give up. If only they knew how
> easy it really is, and that it doesn't take a wad of cash to get a
> sharp knife. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about here.
>

Yes I work mostly with hard Japanese kitchen cutlery not much with tools any
more. When I did tools it was also done dry as well. A high polish makes
these kitchen knives cut better than a scalpel in most cases and they hold
their edges a long time. As for waterstones though I also live where water
will freeze I sharpen in the house where it is warm and as I said the stones
only soak for about 5 to 10 minutes. After use they are cleaned and allowed
dry and stored.

Oh and the Japanese waterstones are something recent in the last 2 years.
Below is a list of my sharpening equipment though not all is used all the
time as it would depend on the knife's steel, use etc.

Hand America Strop/Scary Sharp System
11"X3" Flatbed Hone
11"x3" seamed edge glass plate w/ Magnet strip ( used with polish paper )
11"x3"x1/8" Hand America Treated Red Leather strop ( used as is )
11"x3"x1/8" Hand America Smooth Natural Leather strop ( used with the
Chromium Oxide below)
Dry - Fine/Pure Chromium Oxide - .5 Micron/60,000 Grit
Semi Liquid - 90% Chromium Oxide - .5 Micron/60,000 Grit

Norton Stones
1K 8" x 3" x 1"
4K/8K 8" x 3" x 1" Combo Waterstones
Norton Flattening Stone For Waterstones 9" x 3" x .75"
Norton Synthetic Nagura Stone 3/4" x 3/4" x 3" (use to clean the 8K stone
only)

Other stones
#220 grit Large Ceramic PA Water Stone 8-1/8" x 3" x 2"
Ice Bear 1K 8" x 3" x 1" (used to make the misting between body of blade and
edge on some knives)
Ice Bear 4K 8" x 3" x 1"
Ice Bear 10000x w/ Nagura 8" x 3" x 1" (High polish stone for mirror like
finish)
DMT Dia-Sharp D8XX w/ Stone Holder 8 x 3 x 3/8 in. (Bevel setting and major
repair, also works for flattener)
Bester #700 grit stone 8.2" x 3" x 1"

Joe Cilinceon