That malic eater is Lalvin 71B, it's pretty useful on tart grapes.
The one thing I haven't noticed mention of is the amount of time
transpired before tasting. If you drink wines that are young, (like a
beer age, say just a few months old) I'm sure yeasts still have some
contribution to flavors. Once you get out to a year I think that is
overlaid by so many other things it just doesn't contribute much; the
yeast is gone anyway.

I absolutely agree that the conditions the yeast are used in have a
bigger influence and yeast should be chosen to match the conditions
and style you want. White wines in general are drunk younger and made
fruitier so a I would want a yeast that doesn't mind cold; reds
extract better at higher temperatures; the same yeast may or may not
be right there.

1 fail-safe yeast I really like is Lalvin K1V1116, it's pretty much
bulletproof. I always have some of that around.

Joe