On Tue, 18 May 2004 23:37:48 GMT, "Kate B" >
wrote:

>I made a large batch of preserved lemons using Judy Rodgers recipe in "The
>Zuni Cafe Cookbook" (a GREAT cookbook btw!) about a month ago and they are
>now ready for consumption. As far as I can tell they should be rinsed and
>seeded before use (Rodgers includes only one specific recipe - a butter
>caper preserved lemon sauce that sounds delicious) but several recipes on
>the net specified not to use the pulp. Does anyone know whether the pulp is
>used and if so under what circumstances?

I don't know anything about Judy Rodger's version of prepared lemons
but I would be interested in knowing how she makes them.. The
preserved lemons I know about are closely associated with Moroccan
cooking. I have made them a few times, having followed a method
described by Paula Wolfert in her book, "Couscous and Other Good Food
from Morocco." The ones I have in the refrigerator right now use the
"optional Safi mixture" that includes--besides the lemons, extra lemon
juice, and salt-- a cinnamon stick, cloves, coriander seeds,
peppercorns, and bay leaf. They marinate in the stuff for 30 days.
She says Moroccan Jews use a slightly different method that also
includes olive oil. Some place I have read (Jeff Smith?) that they
also pickle lemons in India, but they are very different. Does anyone
know in what way they differ?

By the way, Wolfert's book also includes a 5-day method for making
preserved lemons which "preserved this way will not keep, but are
perfectly acceptable in an emergency." Instead of dividing the lemon
into quarters by cutting within 1/2" of the bottom and sprinkling salt
on the exposed flesh before immersing them in lemon juice, you make 8
2-inch vertical incisions around the peel with a razor blade, cutting
no deeper than the membrane that protects the pulp, and then boil the
lemons in a stainless-steel sauce pan with plenty of salt until the
peels are very soft. You then put the lemons and cooled cooking
liquid in a jar to pickle for about 5 days.

Concerning use of the pulp, i think the main consideration is how much
you might like the addition of lemony sourness from the lemon juice in
the pulp, and perhaps also the salt absorbed in the pickling. I often
make a simple tagine (basically stewed lamb or beef over couscous)
from Jeff Smith's book on the cooking immigrants have brought to the
U.S, sometimes using a good part of the pulp, with what I thought were
good results..

>I'm also interested in any tried and tasty recipes for preserved lemon. I
>am going to try it in my osso buco recipe which I posted in the past
>("braised veal shanks with olives, capers and gremolata") but use preserved
>lemon instead of lemon zest. It seems like it would be a natural addition
>to any style braised fish dish with tomatoes and olives. I suppose you
>could use it in just about any dish that calls for lemon zest.

I'm no creative cook, just a follower of recipes, but it sounds like
you have the right idea. The main thing I think you will notice about
the preserved lemons in comparison with fresh lemon zest is that they
have a very mellow, less bitter taste. The addition of spices to the
pickling also provides a distinctive touch.