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"Dutch processed" or regular baking cocoa?
at Thu, 25 Mar 2004 18:16:25 GMT in
>,
(Franfogel) wrote :
>If a cake recipe calls for "Dutch processed" cocoa, can one use regular
>cocoa without a problem? I'm not sure whether there is some necessary
>chemical interaction or it's just a matter of taste. In fact, is there
>an actual difference in taste? Anyone know the answer to these
>earthshaking questions? Thanks!
>
>Fran
To a certain extent, it depends on the recipe. Dutch processed cocoa (which
has been processed with potassium carbonate, an alkali), is as you'd
expect, more alkaline than "natural process". Now, some recipes depend on a
reaction between alkaline baking soda and an acid in the ingredients, and
if that acid is supposed to be cocoa, using natural process is the only way
it's going to turn out correctly. An example, for instance, is Devil's Food
cake. But your recipe calls for Dutch process, so it's not depending on
that sort of reaction. However, if you use natural process instead, it's
possible that the extra acidity will imbalance a leavening action. You
could get maddeningly inconsistent results, such as extreme cake doming,
uneven texture, large bubbles, stratification (where the top is very light
and airy, while the bottom is dense, often not even baked through,
resulting in a fudgy texture) and other problems.
As to flavour, there is a considerable difference. Dutch-process has a
milder overall taste with a distinct metallic twang. Generally it's blander
and more uniform. Natural-process is much more lively and more powerful. It
can deliver a potent bitter kick with some brands, especially if the amount
of cocoa you use is considerable. Natural-process is also more variable in
flavour - it's useful here to try different cocoas and see which one you
like best.
Dutch-process cocoa also makes for a darker colour. This is deceptive,
because it can lead the unsuspecting eater into the belief that the cake
will be stronger in flavour than the usually redder, lighter colour of a
cake (or for that matter, anything else) made with natural-process, but it
will in fact be less strong for the same amount of cocoa.
Natural-process cocoa is more heat-sensitive, which means you need to pay
closer attention to the actual state of the cake in the oven and ignore
stated baking times. The best rule is: when the smell of cocoa from the
oven becomes INTENSE and deep, the cake is done.
If the cake has other flavours, different types of cocoa make a better
match. For cream, custard, blueberries, bananas, white chocolate, and
caramel, Dutch-processed cocoa is better. For strawberries, raspberries,
cherries, blackberries, coffee, cinnamon, and nuts, natural-process is
better. The idea is to choose the cocoa whose flavour most complements the
other flavouring and doesn't overwhelm it. That's why chocolate cakes with
white frosting are usually made with Dutch-process cocoa: besides the
visual appeal of the dark, almost black cake against the white frosting, a
natural-process cake would overwhelm the flavour of white frosting.
Finally, cocoas come in 2 fat contents: high-fat (~24%) and low-fat (~7%)
Low-fat cocoas always have a more subdued flavour, and lead to drier cakes,
as well as being more heat-sensitive. High-fat cocoas are richer in flavour
and will make a cake lighter as well as moister.
Among common brands, Hershey's and Ghirardelli are high-fat, natural-
process. Scharffen Berger is also natural-process, high-fat. If you want to
pay the big bucks, Michel Cluizel "dark" is perhaps the best high-fat,
natural process cocoa in the world.
Meanwhile, Droste, Van Houten, Van Leer, and Hershey's "European Style"
(silver can) are high-fat Dutch process, as are Pernigotti and Valrhona.
Most of the organic cocoas, such as Rapunzel and Ah-laska, are low-fat,
natural process. Dagoba, probably the best organic cocoa, doesn't seem to
specify or give any sort of hint.
Guittard makes both natural and Dutch process cocoas, in both fat levels.
You usually find this in bulk bins. It's best to ask to look at the bag to
find out what type the store stocks because the stockers may not know.
All these subtleties are exactly that - subtle. Most of the time the impact
on a cake won't be large, so usually experimenting with a different type of
cocoa won't be disastrous. The effects become more pronounced as the amount
of cocoa in the recipe increases. In your case, you're probably OK to
substitute, but why not post the recipe and then we can tell you for sure?
--
Alex Rast
(remove d., .7, not, and .NOSPAM to reply)
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