Dimitri recommended:

> Make Greek Avgolemano Soup
>
> Very very good,
>
> How about a nice rich custard?

Those are two ideas of which I wholeheartedly approve, and I'd like to point
out that quiche is a type of custard. Here's the Cook's Illustrated version
of avgolemono (which a friend of mine once malapropped as "Avogadro's Number
Soup.")

GREEK EGG-LEMON SOUP (AVGOLEMONO)

2 quarts chicken stock, preferably homemade
1/2 cup long-grain white rice
1 bay leaf
4 green cardamom pods, crushed
OR 2 whole cloves
large zest strips from 1 1/2 lemons
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
2 large eggs plus 2 yolks, preferably at room temperature
1/4 cup juice from zested lemons
1 large scallion, sliced thin, and/or 3 tablespoons chopped fresh mint
leaves

1. Bring chicken stock to boil in medium non-reactive saucepan over high
heat. Add rice, bay leaf, cloves or cardamom, lemon zest, and salt; reduce
heat to medium and simmer until rice is tender and stock is aromatic from
lemon zest, 16 to 20 minutes. With slotted spoon, remove and discard bay
leaf, cloves or cardamom, and zest strips; increase heat to high and return
stock to boil, then reduce heat to low.

2. Whisk eggs, yolks, and lemon juice lightly in medium nonreactive bowl
until combined. Whisking constantly, slowly ladle about 2 cups hot stock
into egg mixture; whisk until combined. Pour egg-stock mixture back into
saucepan; cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until soup is thickened
and wisps of steam appear, 4 to 5 minutes. Do not simmer or boil. Divide
soup among serving bowls, sprinkle with scallion and/or mint; serve
immediately.

NOTES:
1. Room-temperature eggs yield a marginally smoother texture than eggs
right out of the refrigerator.

2. Homemade stock makes a BIG difference.

3. The soup thickens to a gravylike consistency if it's reheated, so it's
important to serve it immediately.


VARIATIONS:

EGG-LEMON SOUP WITH CINNAMON AND CAYENNE

This variation, which was the favorite of the test kitchen, is based on a
Tunisian-style egg-lemon soup: Follow the recipe for Greek Egg-Lemon Soup,
substituting one 2-inch stick of cinnamon and a pinch of cayenne for the
cloves or cardamom.


EGG-LEMON SOUP WITH SAFFRON

Follow the recipe for Greek Egg-Lemon Soup, adding a pinch (about 1/4
teaspoon) saffron threads, crushed between fingertips, along with rice, bay
leaves, cloves or cardamom, salt, and zest.


EGG-LEMON SOUP WITH CHICKEN

Follow any of the recipes given above, adding two boneless, skinless chicken
breasts (about 12 ounces total) cut into 1/2-inch cubes to stock along with
rice, seasonings, and zest.


APPENDIX:

QUICK HOMEMADE CHICKEN STOCK

1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 medium onion, chopped medium
4 pounds chicken backs and necks, hacked with cleaver into 2-inch pieces
(you can use chicken wings instead, if necks and backs are unavailable)
2 quarts boiling water
2 teaspoons salt
2 bay leaves

1. Heat oil in large stockpot over medium-high heat until shimmering; add
onion and sauté until softened slightly, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer onion to
large bowl. Add half of chicken pieces to pot, sauté until no longer pink,
4 to 5 minutes. Transfer cooked chicken to bowl with onion. Repeat with
remaining chicken pieces. Return onion and chicken pieces to pot. Reduce
heat to low, cover, and cook until chicken releases its juices, about 20
minutes. Increase heat to high; add boiling water, salt, and bay leaves.
Return to simmer, reduce heat to medium-low, then cover and barely simmer
until broth is rich and flavorful, about 20 minutes.

2. Strain broth and discard solids. Spoon off fat and discard (or keep for
some other unholy purpose). Stock can be covered and refrigerated up to 2
days or frozen for several months.


Bob