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Whirloop oven strange behavior of oven lights
wrote:
> Hi all-
>
> Got a strange one for you.
>
> We moved into a 5 yr old house about 6 months ago. Have a Whirlpool
> built in electric oven, model RBS305PDB8. Works quite well, still
> looks to be in "as-new" condition.
>
> Periodically, at random times, sometimes once a week, sometimes once
a
> month, sometimes multiple times a day, when the oven is not in use
and
> the door is closed, the 2 lights inside the oven will flash on and
off
> (on for 1 second, off for 1 second, repeat) until we open and close
the
> oven door.
>
> I called Whirlpool, but they hadn't ever heard of this problem (But
> then again, the guy told me to make sure the bulbs weren't burned
out.
> If they were burned out, they couldn't be flashing!!).
>
> I've tried pushing the door closed (in case it was slightly opened)
> when this happens, but that doesn't seem to work. I need to open and
> then close the door to make it stop.
>
> I found a website with error codes for Whirlpool ovens, but they all
> appear on the lcd display, not by flashing the oven lights.
>
> Has anyone ever experienced this before or have any suggestions?
>
> Kindly,
> Ken
hi Ken
sci.electronics.repair and uk.d-i-y would be my first choices for
electrical knowledge.
If your oven light is switched by opening the door, it might be:
- badly adjusted switch
- poorly aligned door
- faulty shorting switch (most likely)
- cooking deposits on the switch contacts shorting it
If your oven light is switched manually on the front panel, it might
be:
- almost certainly a switch fault
- less likely, cooking deposits on the switch contacts shorting it
Is it dangerous? It can cause a fire, though in most cases will just
burn itself open circuit in time. So yes I'd get it fixed. Removing the
interior bulb(s) would considerably reduce the risk in the meantime,
but not fully eliminate it.
Why does it stop when you open the door? Bad connections move slightly
when vibrated.
Now your US wiring can be significantly different to ours in terms of
neutral and earth arrangements, and I would say its important to check
the oven is properly earthed - or as you say, grounded. Otherwise such
a fault can end up causing a shock in some cases. If your oven is not
grounded, I wouldnt use it. Even after the fault is fixed.
There is no need for a GFCI on an oven, as long as its grounded. It
would not in fact be a satisfactory arrangement, since significant
leakage is part of normal working with heating elements.
The effects of a short depend on whats shorting to where. Only some
shorts blow fuses and breakers.
220v cookers run on 2x 110v supplies in the US, unlike here where we
have real 240v. 240v shocks are not usually lethal, but theyre a whole
magnitude worse than 110. They claim around 30 lives per year here.
If you've still got 1930s wiring, pray daily. Wear a rubber wetsuit at
all times. Such historic installs are illegal here on a long list of
safety grounds, and anyone renting such could expect a jail term.
Almost certainly replacing the switch that operates the light would
cure the problem. This is usually a fairly simple electrical job.
Of course I could be wrong, it might be a poultry geist after all.
NT
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