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Default R.I.P. Floyd Cardoz, 59, Indian-born chef/pioneer, from COVID-19


https://www.nytimes.com/2020/03/25/d...ronavirus.html
By Julia Moskin
March 25, 2020

First paragraphs:

Floyd Cardoz, an international restaurateur and the first chef to bring the sweep and balance of his native Indian cooking to fine dining in the United States, died on Tuesday at Mountainside Hospital in Montclair, N.J. He was 59.

The cause was the coronavirus, his family said.

Mr. Cardoz was the first chef born and raised in India to lead an influential New York City kitchen, at Tabla, which he and the restaurateur Danny Meyer opened in the Flatiron district of Manhattan in 1998. Soon after, Ruth Reichl of The New York Times gave Mr. Cardozs cooking a rapturous review.

€œYes, I thought. This is what I have been waiting for,€ she wrote. €œThis is American food, viewed through a kaleidoscope of Indian spices.€

Before opening Tabla, Mr. Cardoz cooked at the luxurious New York restaurant Lespinasse, where he rose from line cook to executive sous-chef under the Swiss chef Gray Kunz. (Mr. Kunz died in February.)
Mr. Kunz, like many chefs who participated in the revolution in French cooking known as nouvelle cuisine, was already occasionally deploying Asian ingredients like ginger, cardamom and star anise, but at Tabla, Mr. Cardoz summoned a fully Indian-American modern cuisine with dishes like halibut in watermelon curry and spice-braised oxtails with tapioca...

(snip)

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