In message >
Michael Nielsen > wrote:

> On Friday, February 13, 2015 at 1:11:17 PM UTC+1, Timothy Hartley wrote:
>>
>> This is not untypical of the year to year variation of many, though by
>> no means all, Bordeaux blends -- with perhaps the exception of 2012
>> where the variation does seem great given that -- according to its
>> website -- the vineyard is planted to 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 50%
>> Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The growers seek to
>> make what they regard as the best wine possible from the vintage so
>> that in a hot year the proportion of Cabernet is likely to increase
>> to bring freshness to the wine which would otherwise be lacking in
>> that year. In a lighter or cooler year the proportion of Merlot is
>> likely to be higher to give the extra fruit and fullness to the wine.
>> Those growers who are particularly concerned to express terroir rather
>> than make a very modern wine which could be from anywhere will try to
>> achieve a wine which does just that and which will be recognisable as
>> their estate's wine from year to year even if it varies somewhat in
>> blend.
>>

> Aha. I thought the goal of tweaking the blend was to make as uniform a
> wine as possible from year to year - changing the blend being
> "tweaking" - subtle changes in the blend, not tipping over the balance
> completely. So when noting that I like a wine, I have to note the name
> and vintage.
> Wine ={Name, Vintage} is the correct identifier for that wine I tasted
> and like. {Name,Vintage+1} can be a completely different wine.
> Maybe that's why I feel safer with Californian wines as they are more
> equal between vintages.

The best growers know that they cannot make the same wine as last
year. They do not have — or very rarely have - the same weather notr
do they pick at the same time. Equally they do not have many acres
of ground from which to blend, helping to iron out the combined
effects of terroir and weather which big New World estates have. It
is that which make European wines both special and difficult. Their
aim, as I say unless they have fallen prey to the idea of a two
dimensional,fruit jam confection, is to make wine which they believe
truly represents in their style the best of what nature has given them
in the year in question on the soil in question. However as I say,
whilst uniformity is not possible if they stay true to terroir, that
does not mean in any way that the wines are completely different in
their essentials or will not be recognisable as a particular estate's
wine from year to year even if they vary somewhat in blend. I find if
you like a wine from one vintage you are very likely to like it in
other vintages too — especially those of similar quality to the one
you first admired. But, yes, I agree you do need to remember name +
vintage in a way you do not with New World wines.

You will find the same thing with many of the smaller Champagne
growers too — they are making a wine which is true to terroir rather
than a bland same as last year stereotype such as the big Champagne
houses make at the bottom to mid end of their ranges.


Tim Hartley