TN: 2004 Red Burgs- some green, some mean, some lean, some I like
We had a nice little group get together at La Mangeoire on 2nd Avenue on a warm and rainy night. A nice charucterie plate (pate, mousse, sausage, duck breast, cornichons, celeriac remoulade) was a nice way to start. After that, we started our search for the Greenie Meanies in 2004 Burgundy. I'd say on a scale of pyrazine sensitivity of one to ten I'm probably a 3 or 4, and yet have had mixed results, but thought some wines improved lately. So trying to keep an open mind:
2004 Lafon "Santenots" Volnay 1er
This was a perplexing wine. Red fruit and a hint of celery stalk on the nose but no TCA, but on the palate (unusually) I thought corked or at least musty. Later the corkiness seemed to fade to me, but others (who initially didn't think corked) thought it worse. ?
2004 Leroy Bourgogne
Green, mean, sour. Someone commented "this is more Lee Roy than Le Roi". C/C+
2004 Meo-Camuzet "Chaumes" Vosne-Romanee 1er
Some green, rather lifted nose, some wood, high acids. I liked this more on revisit. B/B+
I enjoyed the roast chicken, frites, and butter lettuce.
2004 Barthod "Beaux Bruns" Chambolle-Musigny 1er
Probably my wine of the night. Polished, full fruited, spice and smoke.
B+/A-
2004 Potel "Aux Echanges"Chambolle-Musigny 1er
A monopole I've never heard of. Pine needle and bell pepper, red fruits, B/B-
2004 Clos des Lambrays
Green notes, but more herbal here. Lighter-bodied, mature. Actually as a wine I'm ok with this, but disappointing as a 10 year old GC. B
2004 Fourrier "Clos Solon" Morey-St. Denis
Herbal, moderate fruit, not so long but good village wine. B
2004 Roty "Champs Chenys" Gevrey Chambertin Vieilles Vignes
The green on this is more pine-needle than herbal, a bit clipped, not my fave B-
2004 Ponsot Chapelle- Chambertin
Meaty, full, floral. B+
2004 Fourrier Griottes-Chambertin
Nice package except for a rubbery thing on nose. Nice mouthfeel, good flavors, but the reduction keeps it out of favorites (air helped but not a lot) B
2004 Bouchard Chambertin-Clos de Beze
Full, some wood, just a hint of green tobacco leaf, red fruits, a little forest floor. I like. B+
2004 Fourrier "Clos St Jacques" Gevrey-Chambertin 1er
Black cherries, spice and herbs, fairly lush on palate. B+
So as a low to moderately GM-sensitive I found some wines to like, but nothing to really seek out. Others with high sensitivity found less to like.
As we ended with cheese (Comte and Ossua-Iraty) I enjoyed a couple of Champagnes
Charles Dufour Bulles de Comptoir Champagne
Citrusy, low dosage, good. B
Vouette & Sorbee Saignee de Sorbee Rose Champagne
Dry, crisp, needs food, full, I like a lot. B+/A-
Fun educational night.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
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