TN: 1982 Bordeaux, plus some other interesting wines, at Fabio's
an and Patrick were in town, and arranged a group to get together for some 1982s at Fabio Piccolo Fiore in midtown. Nice group of New Yorkers and out of towners, for me a combination of old friends and new faces.
We started with a little tapenade, followed by an assortment of appetizers- tomato and burrata, calamari, and crab salad. Then a trio of pastas- lobster ravioli, pappardelle with mushroom, and fettucine in a light veal sauce. For the main I had a veal chop. Food was good, though maybe they could have used some of the salt from my chop on the squid.
We were very lucky with a lineup where everything showed well, while I had favorites any wine this night would be welcome at my table.
We started with a couple of bottles of Champagne:
2004 Aubry "La Nombre d’Or Campanae Veteres Vites" Brut Champagne
Frsh, crisp, medium mousse, bread and apple, mineral finish. I had fun getting people to guess grapes. Meunier? 5 %. Chardonnay? 15% Then rest is Pinot Noir? 20%. What?!! 25% Fromenteau (Pinot Gris) and Pinot Blanc co-fermented, 20% Petit Meslier, and 15%Arbanne. B+
1996 Henriot "Cuvee des Enchanteleurs" Brut Champagne
Richer, fuller, still quite young, yeasty notes over a pretty pear body. Was very good match on a revisit with the crab. A-/B+
1997 Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune
Full, complex, long, good acids but not the wall of acid that CSH can be young. Delicious. A-
1999 Beaucastel Roussanne VV Chateauneuf-du-Pape
I really loved the nose of this, an exotic and complex melange of honey, pit fruits, and citrus zest. But on the palate it came across to me as rather flat. Others liked a lot more, but I admit to being white-Rhone-challenged.. B
1996 Pape Clement blanc
Ripe and ready, clean with integrated oak. B/B+
Right Bank Flight
Chalky, tight, not showing a lot at first. Not very expressive when poured, but I saved some and it opened. I've had superstar bottles of this, but this one I merely liked (but not signs of damage). B+
1982 Certan de May
Smoky dark fruit, a coffee edge, lush and complex. I liked more than table. A-/B+
Lovely, lush, long and complete. A-
St. Julien Flight
Funky Cordier nose (very similar to the GL), dark fruit, solid wine. B+
1982 Gruaud Larose
Meaty, beaty, big and bouncy. Funky, complex, long, my WOTN (think I was only voter for it). A/A-
1982 Branaire Ducru
Leaner and cleaner than its flightmates, solid and classic St. J. B+
Margaux and Neighbors Flight
Muted and tight at first, this was table's WOTN, but while I liked more and more as it opened up, it never moved to front for me. But nice combination of power and elegance. B+/A-
1982 Prieure Lichine
And the overachiever of the night is.....I've always preferred 83 to 82 in Margaux AC, but I liked this a lot more than an '83 PL not too long ago, only estate I can say that about. Pretty nose of berries and flowers, mid to full on palate, very nice wine. B+
1982 La Lagune
Fresh, good length, good showing. B++
1982 Grand Puy Lacoste
Despite being opened several hours, when this was poured I initially got a spirity/porty nose- not really VA, just high octane. But that seemed to fade quickly, leaving a nice broadshouldered wine with distnct coffee and earth notes. B+
Lightest color of the night, and a very surprising burst of cherry flavor. Medium weight, fresh acids, no tannins, I thought it was my Burg of the night. B/B+
I think the leaders in the voting were Margaux, Gruaud, and then L"Evangile..
1986 Lafaurie Peyraguey
Nice wine with a marmalade meets honey character, but totally overshadowed by flightmate. B/B+
Just killer stuff, deep long and complex. Racy and powerful. A/A-
Fun night. Thanks to Patrick for organizing, everyone for their generous contributions, and Jacques and Jill for the ride home!
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.