Tonight marked the arrival of fresh, wild-caught salmon back in our
local fishmonger's. With a wood-grilled filet of Copper River Sockeye,
I opened:

2008 Hirsch Grüner Veltliner Heiligenstein (Kamptal)
nose: green/herbal, honey, stone fruit
palate: moderate acidity, rich, long finish

Initially, this wine was a bit reticent, but upon warming it was
transformed into one of the finest GVs I've had in quite a while. I had
bought this on the presumption that it would have Federspiel-like
weight, but in fact it came across more as the equivalent of a Smaragd.
Regardless, it was lovely and went splendidly with the salmon.

Mark Lipton