Matt organized a look at how the 1996 Bordeaux were doing at Harry's
in Hanover Square last night. It was actually specified, but we ended
up with all Medoc and Graves, showing where everyone agrees the
strength is.

We had a little semi-private room, good service, and good food (too
much of it). When I arrived there was a starter going round, a 2005
Boxler Riesling. This is apparently a base model, with no little lot
number to search out. Apple and a little apricot, hint of diesel, just
a tad off dry, B/B-

Then followed a bottle of 2007 Chidaine "Clos Habert" Montlouis. Sec-
tendre, fullbodied (someone called it light, I didn't think so), apple
with some light wooly Chenin notes. B+

On to the reds, in 4 flights, non-blind. I think most people had aimed
for doubledecanting in the AM.

Flight One- a bit of everything

1996 Ch. Lagrange (St Julien)
I was surprised how open this showed when decanted, it closed up a bit
by time it made to city, but still was drinking ok. There's still some
primary fruit and oak notes, but the tannins are integrating, and I
think this isn't that far from ready. Nice acids, some earth notes. B
+

1996 Ch. Sociando Mallet
Tight and showing nothing but herbal notes at first, opened up, this
really needs time, but a very good wine. B/B+

1996 Ch. Malescot St. Exupery
The most open wine of the flight (and the night). Midbodied, perfumed,
quite Margauxy, some forest floor. I thought it a bit short, but it
was quite popular. B

There was a lobster, mushroom and butter bean salad, I personally
retreated to a white.
As we went to next flight, we had Surf & turf (sea scallop atop short
rib)

Flight Two- Leovilles

1996 Ch. Leoville Poyferre
Tight, and I kept thinking I got a whiff of TCA. So did a couple
others, but none of us found it consistently, and others all disagree.
A bit burly. No rating, I'm still not convinced this was a sound
bottle.

1996 Ch. Leoville Barton
Most open of flight, but that's not saying much. But I really liked
what I sensed underneath - big but rounded tannins, good cassis fruit,
stern but with character. B+

1996 Ch. Leoville Las Cases
Tight, big but I just couldn't get any real sense of the wine, though
some loved. I'll give it a (probably unfair) B/B-

Flight Three- Pauillacs (with ricotta gnocchi with lamb ragout)
1996 Ch. Pichon Baron
Now, this is more like it. It had showed little at decanting compared
to Lagrange, it was really opening up. Blackcurrants, earth, tobacco.
Tannins seem fine/supple, and there's a nice lively acidity. Big,
needs time but really lovely. A-

1996 Ch. Pichon Lalande
This is quite different but equally lovely when it opens up. Medium
bodied but with a feeling of power, mint/menthol under a solid base of
dark fruit. A-

1996 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste
Weird wine of the night. I took my first sniff as someone at other end
said the words "popcorn butter" and I immediately knew they were
referring to this wine. It smelled like it had been decanted into a
(used) container from National Amusements theater. I remember liking
this wine in the past, but I couldn't get past this, C+

Finally savory course was bone in filet, polenta sticks & creamed
spinach
Flight Four- big boys from all over
1996 Ch. Montrose
Stern, monolithic, probably something great underneath. B

1996 Ch. La Mission Haut Brion
Wow, this showed well. Classic, tobacco and leather under powerful
dark fruit, elegant and balanced. My WOTN by a hair. A-

1996 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou
young and totally primary, but this is going to be really nice. A-/B+

We finished with 1971 Ch. Rayne Vigneau (with triple chocolate mousse
cake for those that could). Apricots, orange zest, honey, still plenty
of life here. B+

Thanks to Matt for organizing, Ben for arranging restaurant, and
everyone for time and wines. I think as we expected in most cases the
best is yet to come for these wines, but with the one exception (and I
can't believe that's how GPL regularly shows) I'd be happy to own any
of these.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.