With tonight's dinner of lamb, Jean had initially requested a Pinot Noir
from the cellar. When I demurred, she then suggested a Rhone wine. So,
down I went and came back with:

1998 Font de Michelle Chateuneuf-du-Pape
nose: cherries verging on kirsch, a hint of meat
palate: velvety smooth, cherry fruit, polished

Having now exhausted our cache of '94s and still waiting on some of our
bigger '89 and '90s, I have begun to move onto some of our more ready
'98s. If this wine is any indication, they are indeed quite drinkable
at this stage. The oak treatment of the Gonnet brothers is evident in
the polished mouthfeel of this wine, but the oak is fully integrated and
evident only as a textural element. Very nice with the lamb on a cold
Winter's night.

Mark Lipton
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