Alan Zelt > wrote in message
...
> Not sure how many people are familiar with this area of both South
> France and Northwest Spain, but I have always loved all things Basque,
> save
> politics. Until we got back from our vacation, I only had six books on
> Basque cooking. While a large collection by anyone's standards, the
> thought
> of adding to the collection was just below the surface.
>
> We started in Paris, where the SBF was on a temporary assignment. I flew
> over to meet her. We had dinner at a corny old favorite of ours: Monsieur
> Lapin. Naturally, I had the Lapin Moutarde. And the next day we were on
> the
> TGV to Biarritz. We spent two nights there, about two blocks from the
> ocean.
> As the season had not yet started, it was easy to get around, while the
> prices were still under control. We dipped our toes in the Atlantic, a lot
> warmer than dipping ones digits in the North Pacific!
>
> Of course we explored the local indoor market, a wonderful treat,
> populated
> with many warm and open stall owners. When they learned we were from
> Seattle, they all seemed willing to talk about their relatives living in
> California, Oregon and Idaho. I just wanted to buy up one of those
> wonderful Bayonne hams, hanging in their colorful striped cloth bags. For
> those unaware, this particular ham is coated in powdered Espelette pepper.
> So very tasty. Then I slapped myself in the face and remembered the
> beagles
> would catch me in Seattle as we got off the Air France flight!
>
> We had an absolutely to die for dinner at a restaurant named Ahizpak, les
> trois soeurs. Doubt the sisters were triplets, but it was scary seeing the
> same person seat us, pour our wine and cook our meal!! Perhaps our finest
> meal on our trip through France and Portugal. The highlight was an amazing
> entree that consisted of four gutted sardines, each wrapped in basil, and
> then each wrapped with filo dough, fried and served on a bed of greens
> with
> an Espelette based sauce. Can you say seconds!! I know we were on to
> something when we got home and picked up our mail. In it was the latest
> issue of Gault Millau containing a write up on our restaurant.
>
> At this point, I should offer up an observation that belies the common
> belief about Western European food portions. After thinking over all the
> meals we were served on our trip, we both came to the conclusion that the
> food portions had grown to unmanageable proportions. I don't mind starting
> with a good rillette de canard, but when it was about 8 ounces, they have
> gone overboard. The Plats were also of similar proportions. Things have
> really changed since so much American has creeped into Europe. Now I have
> to walk even more each day to absorb it all. Finally, in complete
> frustration, we gave up all deserts, save fresh fruit.
>
> On to Lisbon where the SBF, in a different life, spent time there. We took
> the overnight train, with sleeper car, into the summer night as the train
> rolled on through Spain. The Portuguese Railway, while not noted for a
> good wine cellar, was well stocked with plenty of plonk. For the first
> time in 40 years, I had a bottle of Mateus Rose!!!! This, along with a
> chicken dish, and an excellent Portuguese orange worked wonders.
>
> We arrived in Lisbon on a Friday at mid-day. Not just any Friday, but St.
> Anthony's day. The patron saint of Lisbon. And that meant only one thing:
> it's party time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It all started with a parade that wound
> down the Avenue Libertad, starting at about 10PM. It finally ended about
> 4AM. Then there were block parties all over Lisbon that went on until
> noon. So we heard. We crapped out after dinner at 2AM!! Late enough for
> us.
>
> For the SBF, gardens and castles galore, including a side trip to Sintra
> and the Moorish castle, along with another well pimped out castle nearby.
> History sometimes offers up a good joke.
>
> As the tour books state, great seafood, piggie and chicken. I was also
> impressed with some of the reds. I even enjoyed he Vinho Verdes, rather
> young, somewhat bubbly green wine, clocking in at about 10%. And the most
> marvelous white sangria, made with local bubbly and brandy. Deadly!!
>
> The SBF missed one dish from her past, a rotisserie chicken piri-piri. So,
> I asked the hotel manager where we could find some, since it was not
> really found on menus. He pointed out a restaurant, where the owner is
> called, I kid you not, the king of chicken. I guess he is the Portuguese
> Colonel Sanders! We found the place, and lo and behold, everyone was
> eating chicken. Suitably crispy chicken with a glaze of piri-piri oil. I
> painted an additional layer and dove in. For the two of us, we received a
> whole chicken (about 2 1/2 to 3 lbs, cut in quarters) and hefty plate of
> fries. The chicken was wonderful. The fries, were somewhat cold and mushy.
> Not sure how, but our waiter appeared unbidden five minutes later with a
> new plate of fries, too hot to eat and crispy, with a suitable amount of
> salt on it. How did he know!!!
>
> Four nites and five days and we finally had our fill of Lisbon, and taxied
> back to the train station for a 4PM train to Hendeye in France. One last
> terror laden trip in a Portuguese taxi. They are nuts!!! Driving in
> Portugal is not the best thing one can do for relaxation.
>
> An enjoyable train ride, with a long cocktail hour, staring into the high
> desert country in the part of Portugal due east of Lisbon. Then dinner,
> and watching the sun set after 10PM into the mountains.
>
> Wake up for coffee, juice and rolls was at 6:30AM. We reach Hendeye at
> 7AM, with the TGV on the next track, leaving at 7:30A for Paris. The best
> part was after leaving Bordeaux, heading through St. Emilion. How can one
> not be inspired going past some of the best wineries in the world.
>
> Paris was the usual for us: gardens for the SBF and another visit to the
> oven in the basement of the Poilane bakery in the Cherche Midi. This was
> followed by a visit to Le Bon Marche, and its wonderful food hall. Dinner
> that night was a Basque restaurant around the block from our hotel in the
> 15th.
>
> The next day we day tripped to Vernon, with a bus to Giverny. Almost ten
> years to the day we first visited the Water Lilies.
>
> And the next day, it was Air France back to Seattle. My carry-on included
> two boules from Poilane.
>
> The best part of the trip. Without a doubt, it was the Basque country. The
> people were so friendly, the food was basic and delicious, the wine was
> superb (when was the last time you had Irouleguy!!). And I was thoroughly
> impressed with all the ways to work with Espelette pepper.
>
> Oh, the cook books. When we we visited the Espelette Pepper Syndicate, we
> told them that I wanted to buy some Basque cookbooks, in English. There
> are plenty in French and Basque; but we found none in our travels
> throughout the Pays Basque. To our good fortune, the manager of their shop
> told me of a large book store in Bayonne where we might just find what we
> wanted. So, on the way back to the Biarritz train station, we detoured to
> Bayonne. Bingo, a book store that had exactly two Basque cookbooks in
> English. And just one copy of each. Both wound up in my bag. Natch, one of
> them was of the best Pinxtos in San Sebastian!
>
> To anyone looking to go to France, but not France, who also wants to go to
> Spain, but not to Spain, my wholehearted recommendation that you vacation
> in the Pays Basque in June, when the weather was warm, sunny, and not yet
> choked off with tourists.

Welcome back Alan. Thanks for the triptick.

The Basque region and Spain are two trips we hope to make within the next
few years with my daughter-units. Sounds like we should also add in Portugal
from you shared.

The Ranger