Matt organized a dinner around the 1994 Bordeaux vintage last night.
Nice group of 8 gathered at Union Square Cafe. One advantage of the
recession has been some better corkage deals, and $10/bottle at USC
certainly qualifies as a good deal.
Ben had generously brought a starter, the 1994 Laville Haut Brion.
Recently I've run across several very advanced 1994-1996 white Bdx,
and Gilman has commented about same thing. I didn't detect any
extraordinary oxidation here, just a light nutty note that seems right
for 15. On the rounder more tropical side, a bit subdued, good not
great for me despite vintage. B
We moved to the reds, doing the Right Bank first.
First Flight
1994 L'Evangile - this flight had some of the biggest divergences of
opinion. I thought the Evangile a bit tight, but pretty tasty -
midweight ripe red fruit, some coffee/mocha, good length, tannins only
thing holding it back from outstanding. B/B+
1994 Clinet - others liked more than I (which surprised me because
this was one of my WOTN when we did 1994s 5 years ago). Black and red
berries, surprisingly short/clipped. B-
Second Flight
1994 Angelus - drinking quite well now, though there's enough
structure to hold. Smoky, mineral, black currant and plum, very good
and my second favorite of night. B+/A-
1994 Lafleur - the beast. Very solid black plum and berry fruit, but a
real wall of tannins. I had written needs 15 years, Paul opined 10, so
we settled for 12.5.
B for now, but most room for improvement
of night, I voted as my #3.
1994 Trotanoy - I liked a bit more than table. Minerally, crunchy red
fruit, again the tannins are holding it back, but I have doubts this
can age past the tannins. Drink now with steak. B
Third Flight (with main courses)
1994 Haut Brion- this is first time I ever remember an unanimous WOTN
with this group. I've always liked this, but this bottle showed
especially well. Dark fruit, gravel, tobacco. Tannins are present but
riper/rounder than some other wines. Nice balanced package of acids,
tannins, and fruit. Smooth and elegant. A-
1994 Mouton Rothschild
As much as we like teasing Frank re Mouton, I can't say this was worst
wine of the night. Lead pencil, cassis, the typical refrain of
tannins, no Moutonesque exoticism that I can note. B
1994 Cos D'Estournel
My notes just read "Hard hard hard." Some blackcurrant fruit, but hard
tannins totally dominate. Maybe this will show well in 10+ years, but
I'm not sad it is my lone bottle. B-/C+
Fourth Flight
Brian had brought a couple bonus bottles, which we tried blind with
the one remaining Medoc
Blind #1
A little herbal, big tannins, some cedary oak. Big wine, needs food.
1994 Sociando Mallet B-
Blind #2
I really didn't care for this, a bit weedy, hard tannins, there's both
green fruit and green tannins. Might have been better with meat. 1994
Reserve de Comtesse, C+
1994 Leoville Poyferre
Some others really disliked, I thought this showed as a nice if not
outstanding claret. Meaty, cassis fruit, tannins just a tad tough,
not great but I'd be happy with it on my dinner table on steak night.
B
So not so different than what I would have predicted going in. Wines
mostly good but not great, all still with substantial tannins, lots of
"good steak wines" but with only a couple of exceptions not any
potentially stellar wines.
The appetizers were not very red Bordeaux friendly, maybe a half
order of pasta would have been better, but I opted for a small portion
of a main of softshelled crab with fennel and roasted peppers. Not a
match, but what I felt like eating. For main I got lamb chops, with a
good potato gratin and some radicchio, arugula, etc. Three out of four
of my chops were tasty, one tasted totally unseasoned, very strange.
Good cheese course (I had a Cowgirl Mt Tam, Grayson, and an Italian
smoked sheeps cheese).
Thanks to Matt for organizing and to all for good company.
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.*