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Winemaking (rec.crafts.winemaking) Discussion of the process, recipes, tips, techniques and general exchange of lore on the process, methods and history of wine making. Includes traditional grape wines, sparkling wines & champagnes. |
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I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10%
and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. Any suggestions? Dick |
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![]() "Dick Adams" > wrote in message ... > I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% > and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than > slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. > > Any suggestions? You're seeking a schizophrenic yeast that may not exist. Vigorous strains (e.g. Prise de Mousse) tend to ferment everything in sight, whereas slow fermenting strains (e.g. Epernay II) are the ones that are easiest to stop. Better make up your mind. Tom S |
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Dick Adams wrote:
> I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% > and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than > slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. > > Any suggestions? > > Dick It is easier to control the sugar than it is to control the yeast, if there is only enough sugar to reach 10% abv no yeast in the world can ferment it past that point. Ken |
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![]() "Dick Adams" > wrote in message ... > I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% > and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than > slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. > > Any suggestions? > > Dick I agree with the comments above. Even with a "homogeneous" yeast like those you buy, there are billions or maybe trillions of yeast cells in the bucket and certainly more than that in the must after it goes through a few replications. No mater how hard the yeast company tries, they are not all identical. Like any organism, they mutate and they have personal differences. You cannot guarantee that they will all die off in a certain range. You can control the sugar so they run out of food at a certain alcohol level. Then give them enough time to settle out so you can eliminate most of them through racking. Then you can filter to remove the rest or treat with sorbate to prevent the few left from reproducing and causing a problem and you can sweeten to what ever level you want. Ray |
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There is a yeast that does just that. Kitzinger Liebfraumilch ferments up to
about 11 %. Normally some sugar remains. Delicious wines, especially used for my applewine. Starts slow, ferments rather quickly until it reaches 10 % and slows down until it finally stops. Where to buy? Rocky Top Homebrew Supplies, Olympia, Washington. Give it a go. Ed "Dick Adams" > schreef in bericht ... > I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% > and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than > slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. > > Any suggestions? > > Dick |
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Ken Vale > wrote:
> Dick Adams wrote: >> I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% >> and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than >> slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. >> >> Any suggestions? > It is easier to control the sugar than it is to control the > yeast, if there is only enough sugar to reach 10% abv no > yeast in the world can ferment it past that point. I always appreciate common sense answers. My problem is that when I let a Maple Syrup Wine/Mead ferment out, it acquires a fuesal taste. So I'd like it to ferment out leaving an SG of around 1.02. The solution so far has been crushed Campden tablets per gallon. They aren't that easy to crush. ![]() Dick |
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![]() "Dick Adams" > wrote in message ... > Ken Vale > wrote: >> Dick Adams wrote: > >>> I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% >>> and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than >>> slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. >>> >>> Any suggestions? > >> It is easier to control the sugar than it is to control the >> yeast, if there is only enough sugar to reach 10% abv no >> yeast in the world can ferment it past that point. > > I always appreciate common sense answers. My problem is that > when I let a Maple Syrup Wine/Mead ferment out, it acquires a > fuesal taste. So I'd like it to ferment out leaving an SG of > around 1.02. The solution so far has been crushed Campden > tablets per gallon. They aren't that easy to crush. ![]() > > Dick I am not talking from experience here but when it gets down to the SG you want you might try putting it in a refrigerator or freezer to stop the fermentation. This will not kill it so if you bring it out and warm it up again it will likely start up again. If you can leave it in the cold until it starts to clear. Then rack it off the sediment. This will leave most of the yeast behind. You might be able to either sterile filter it (not a simple filter, a sterile filter) or treat it with sorbate and let it finish clearing. I would force the clearing with fining as fast as possible. Just some suggestions. Once again, not from experience so take them for what they are. Ray |
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Ray Calvert wrote:
> "Dick Adams" > wrote in message > ... > >>Ken Vale > wrote: >> >>>Dick Adams wrote: >> >>>>I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% >>>>and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than >>>>slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. >>>> >>>>Any suggestions? >> >>>It is easier to control the sugar than it is to control the >>>yeast, if there is only enough sugar to reach 10% abv no >>>yeast in the world can ferment it past that point. >> >>I always appreciate common sense answers. My problem is that >>when I let a Maple Syrup Wine/Mead ferment out, it acquires a >>fuesal taste. So I'd like it to ferment out leaving an SG of >>around 1.02. The solution so far has been crushed Campden >>tablets per gallon. They aren't that easy to crush. ![]() >> >>Dick > > > I am not talking from experience here but when it gets down to the SG you > want you might try putting it in a refrigerator or freezer to stop the > fermentation. This will not kill it so if you bring it out and warm it up > again it will likely start up again. If you can leave it in the cold until > it starts to clear. Then rack it off the sediment. This will leave most of > the yeast behind. You might be able to either sterile filter it (not a > simple filter, a sterile filter) or treat it with sorbate and let it finish > clearing. I would force the clearing with fining as fast as possible. > > Just some suggestions. Once again, not from experience so take them for > what they are. > > Ray > > I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. Saves a lot of hassle. |
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Dick Adams wrote:
> Ken Vale > wrote: > >>Dick Adams wrote: > > >>>I'm looking for a yeast that will completely die between 10% >>>and 12% abv. I would prefer it to be agressive rather than >>>slow - so it ferments quickly and dies from alcoholism.. >>> >>>Any suggestions? > > >>It is easier to control the sugar than it is to control the >>yeast, if there is only enough sugar to reach 10% abv no >>yeast in the world can ferment it past that point. > > > I always appreciate common sense answers. My problem is that > when I let a Maple Syrup Wine/Mead ferment out, it acquires a > fuesal taste. So I'd like it to ferment out leaving an SG of > around 1.02. The solution so far has been crushed Campden > tablets per gallon. They aren't that easy to crush. ![]() > > Dick Okay I'm betting (but only because I'm in no way certain) that the fuesal taste has to do the yeast you are using and how it ferments the remaining sugars. Likely the remaining sugars are much harder to ferment and thus produce the fuesal taste, a different yeast may result in a different taste. I know someone who fermented out some maple syrup with EC-1118 and had no fuesal tastes. I can understand how annoying the campden tablets would be to crush, have you considered a pill crusher (which should be available from your local drugstore) or buying powdered metabisulphate (though this requires an accurate scale capable of measuring in grams). Ken |
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>>
>> > I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age and > rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. Saves a > lot of hassle. I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and my own opinion. Ray |
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Ray Calvert wrote:
>>> >>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age and >>rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. Saves a >>lot of hassle. > > > I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But I > have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork back in > it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is better than > if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and my own opinion. > > Ray > > I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? |
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Ray Calvert wrote:
>>> >>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age and >>rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. Saves a >>lot of hassle. > > > I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But I > have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork back in > it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is better than > if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and my own opinion. > > Ray > > I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? |
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> The solution so far has been crushed Campden
> tablets per gallon. They aren't that easy to crush. ![]() Use the powder form instead of the tablets. I also don't think we fully understand what your trying to do - leave a residual sweetness without sorbate or what. Sorbate would be the answer but I noticed when I did a Niagara Mist Peach Chardonnay, which was the first time I used sorbate, that I didn't like something in the taste. I'm guessing it was the sorbate. Don |
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There are probably other names for them. They are short corks, maybe 1/2 to
3/4 inch with a plastic cap on one end. After you open a bottle you can use them to push back in by hand and open by hand easily without a cork screw. Wine tasting rooms often use them. They are not very good for long term use but for a short period up to maybe a few months they work fine. I buy a few dozen every now and then and use them regularly. They can be reused if you are only using them for a few days at a time. Ray "alien" > wrote in message ... > Ray Calvert wrote: >>>> >>>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age >>>and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. >>>Saves a lot of hassle. >> >> >> I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But >> I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork >> back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is >> better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and >> my own opinion. >> >> Ray >> >> > I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? |
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They sound like the corks you get on good whisky bottles. I've seen the
vacuum pump wine savers, never used one. I keep forgetting to buy one when I'm in town. Ray Calvert wrote: > There are probably other names for them. They are short corks, maybe 1/2 to > 3/4 inch with a plastic cap on one end. After you open a bottle you can use > them to push back in by hand and open by hand easily without a cork screw. > Wine tasting rooms often use them. They are not very good for long term use > but for a short period up to maybe a few months they work fine. I buy a few > dozen every now and then and use them regularly. They can be reused if you > are only using them for a few days at a time. > > Ray > > "alien" > wrote in message > ... > >>Ray Calvert wrote: >> >>>>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age >>>>and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. >>>>Saves a lot of hassle. >>> >>> >>>I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But >>>I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork >>>back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is >>>better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and >>>my own opinion. >>> >>>Ray >>> >>> >> >>I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? > > > |
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They sound like the corks you get on good whisky bottles. I've seen the
vacuum pump wine savers, never used one. I keep forgetting to buy one when I'm in town. Ray Calvert wrote: > There are probably other names for them. They are short corks, maybe 1/2 to > 3/4 inch with a plastic cap on one end. After you open a bottle you can use > them to push back in by hand and open by hand easily without a cork screw. > Wine tasting rooms often use them. They are not very good for long term use > but for a short period up to maybe a few months they work fine. I buy a few > dozen every now and then and use them regularly. They can be reused if you > are only using them for a few days at a time. > > Ray > > "alien" > wrote in message > ... > >>Ray Calvert wrote: >> >>>>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age >>>>and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. >>>>Saves a lot of hassle. >>> >>> >>>I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But >>>I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork >>>back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is >>>better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and >>>my own opinion. >>> >>>Ray >>> >>> >> >>I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? > > > |
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Yes they are the same thing as used on a good whisky bottle. I have one of
the vacuum pump wine savers and used it a few times, then quit. It pumps out some of the air but leaves the bottle under vacuum and it seems to me that the volatiles come out of solution and that changes the taste of the wine. I would rather keep some splits (375 ml wine bottles) around and I just pour left over wine into the smaller bottle and use the taster cork on it. It will keep that way for several days or a week. Just the way I do things and maybe just my opinion and prejudice. Ray "alien" > wrote in message ... > They sound like the corks you get on good whisky bottles. I've seen the > vacuum pump wine savers, never used one. I keep forgetting to buy one > when I'm in town. > > > Ray Calvert wrote: >> There are probably other names for them. They are short corks, maybe 1/2 >> to 3/4 inch with a plastic cap on one end. After you open a bottle you >> can use them to push back in by hand and open by hand easily without a >> cork screw. Wine tasting rooms often use them. They are not very good >> for long term use but for a short period up to maybe a few months they >> work fine. I buy a few dozen every now and then and use them regularly. >> They can be reused if you are only using them for a few days at a time. >> >> Ray >> >> "alien" > wrote in message >> ... >> >>>Ray Calvert wrote: >>> >>>>>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age >>>>>and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. >>>>>Saves a lot of hassle. >>>> >>>> >>>>I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But >>>>I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork >>>>back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is >>>>better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and >>>>my own opinion. >>>> >>>>Ray >>>> >>>> >>> >>>I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? >> >> |
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I've always heard them called T-corks, as from the side the plastic cap
and the cork look like a capital T. They're also the typcial cap for bottles of port, at least not vintage ports, so I assume that they have some long-term-use possibilities (maybe port bottles have a more narrow opening than typcial wine bottles?). Homebrew store likely has them, and some wine stores might as well. Rob |
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Rob wrote:
> I've always heard them called T-corks, as from the side the plastic cap > and the cork look like a capital T. They're also the typcial cap for > bottles of port, at least not vintage ports, so I assume that they have > some long-term-use possibilities (maybe port bottles have a more narrow > opening than typcial wine bottles?). Homebrew store likely has them, > and some wine stores might as well. > > Rob > Or drink a lot of whisky and port? |
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![]() > Or drink a lot of whisky and port? Well, sure, but then the initial question was unlikely to be about a yeast that dies at a very low alcohol level, more than likely. I'll take care of the port, you can have the whisky. :-) Rob |
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![]() > Or drink a lot of whisky and port? Well, sure, but then the initial question was unlikely to be about a yeast that dies at a very low alcohol level, more than likely. I'll take care of the port, you can have the whisky. :-) Rob |
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Rob wrote:
>>Or drink a lot of whisky and port? > > > > Well, sure, but then the initial question was unlikely to be about a > yeast that dies at a very low alcohol level, more than likely. > > I'll take care of the port, you can have the whisky. :-) > > Rob > Well, I just picked up a bottle of cask strength, single malt, Inchgower that's older than I am. That's a good start ![]() |
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Rob wrote:
>>Or drink a lot of whisky and port? > > > > Well, sure, but then the initial question was unlikely to be about a > yeast that dies at a very low alcohol level, more than likely. > > I'll take care of the port, you can have the whisky. :-) > > Rob > Well, I just picked up a bottle of cask strength, single malt, Inchgower that's older than I am. That's a good start ![]() |
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Rob wrote:
>>Or drink a lot of whisky and port? > > > > Well, sure, but then the initial question was unlikely to be about a > yeast that dies at a very low alcohol level, more than likely. > > I'll take care of the port, you can have the whisky. :-) > > Rob > Well, I just picked up a bottle of cask strength, single malt, Inchgower that's older than I am. That's a good start ![]() |
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I know this is getting off topic (getting? hasn't it been for a
while?), but I celebrated the new millenium with a vintage port older than I was, so I know how good that start is! |
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I know this is getting off topic (getting? hasn't it been for a
while?), but I celebrated the new millenium with a vintage port older than I was, so I know how good that start is! |
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![]() "Ray Calvert" > wrote in message om... > There are probably other names for them. They are short corks, maybe 1/2 to > 3/4 inch with a plastic cap on one end. After you open a bottle you can use > them to push back in by hand and open by hand easily without a cork screw. > Wine tasting rooms often use them. They are not very good for long term use > but for a short period up to maybe a few months they work fine. I buy a few > dozen every now and then and use them regularly. They can be reused if you > are only using them for a few days at a time. > There are also plastic corks with a handle available that are quite inexpensive (under a dollar a dozen) and they can be reused indefinitely. And they allow the wine to be stored in an upright position. Bob "Please return your stewardess to her original upright position."- George Carlin- > Ray > > "alien" > wrote in message > ... > > Ray Calvert wrote: > >>>> > >>>I use the sugar I need to get to the abv I want, ferment dry, bulk age > >>>and rack etc. Then bottle dry. When I drink it, I add sugar if needed. > >>>Saves a lot of hassle. > >> > >> > >> I must admit that I do that also and in general it works very well. But > >> I have noted that if I pop the cork, sweeten, then put a tasters cork > >> back in it and let it set for an hour or over night in the fridge, it is > >> better than if I just sweeten when I drink it. Just an observation and > >> my own opinion. > >> > >> Ray > >> > >> > > I'll give that a go. One question, what is a tasters cork? > > |
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I wanted to share my campden crushing hint.
I use an electric coffee bean grinder. Although mine is an old oster brand, it looks something like this one at the following web site. http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=102654 |
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![]() "Cork-N-Cap" > wrote in message oups.com... >I wanted to share my campden crushing hint. > > I use an electric coffee bean grinder. Although mine is an old oster > brand, it looks something like this one at the following web site. > > http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=102654 > I use an apothecary type mortar and pestle. You can buy one at oriental import stores for $4 to $6 and they work great. Orientals use them to grind up their herbal medicines. Ray |
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![]() "Cork-N-Cap" > wrote in message oups.com... >I wanted to share my campden crushing hint. > > I use an electric coffee bean grinder. Although mine is an old oster > brand, it looks something like this one at the following web site. > > http://www.cooking.com/products/shprodde.asp?SKU=102654 > I use an apothecary type mortar and pestle. You can buy one at oriental import stores for $4 to $6 and they work great. Orientals use them to grind up their herbal medicines. Ray |
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In message > , Ray
Calvert > writes > >I use an apothecary type mortar and pestle. You can buy one at >oriental import stores for $4 to $6 and they work great. Orientals use >them to grind up their herbal medicines. I'm a cheapskate, so I put mine on a saucer, and crush them with the back of a flattish tea-spoon. Sometimes I don't spray *all* of the bits over the floor. -- cheers, robin Robin's Big Adventures In Oz: http://www.robinsomes.co.uk/oz |
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![]() Ray Calvert wrote: > I use an apothecary type mortar and pestle. You can buy one at oriental > import stores for $4 to $6 and they work great. Orientals use them to grind > up their herbal medicines. If you really want to treat yourself to a very, very nice tool, check out the Thai mortar and pestles he http://importfood.com/mortarpestle.html. At the bottom of the page (which you'll want to read through), they have other types, too. When I first started dreaming of making metheglins, I ordered an 8" Thai m&p, and it is awesome...a very satisfying experience. I use it every day for all kinds of things I never thought I'd be doing. I actually grind flax seeds now; before it was just too much of a hassle using a machine grinder then having to clean it. Diane |
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![]() "dkistner" > wrote in message oups.com... > > Ray Calvert wrote: > >> I use an apothecary type mortar and pestle. You can buy one at > oriental >> import stores for $4 to $6 and they work great. Orientals use them > to grind >> up their herbal medicines. > > If you really want to treat yourself to a very, very nice tool, check > out the Thai mortar and pestles he > http://importfood.com/mortarpestle.html. At the bottom of the page > (which you'll want to read through), they have other types, too. > > When I first started dreaming of making metheglins, I ordered an 8" > Thai m&p, and it is awesome...a very satisfying experience. I use it > every day for all kinds of things I never thought I'd be doing. I > actually grind flax seeds now; before it was just too much of a hassle > using a machine grinder then having to clean it. > > Diane > Yea, Teach an old dog to suck eggs! My wife is Thai. We half a dozen or more of those things. Some are ceramic, others stone, and some are wood. They do work well and Thai's grind everything in them From hot peppers to dried shrimp. Ray |
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Ray, I didn't mean to offend you by making the Thai mortar & pestle
suggestion. I was making it to everyone, not just you. (I'll bet you eat like a king, you lucky dog you.) Diane |
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Oh, goodness. I came across wrong again! I guess I should have put in some
smiley faces somewhere. No offence taken. Just a left handed way of acknowledging your comments on Thai cooking utensils. Yes, I eat like a king and have for 35 years of marriage. I do not know why the mortar and pestle is not a standard item in every kitchen. Almost all dry spices will keep better if not powdered. Grind them up when you use them and you will get more from them. One of the reasons Thai cooking is so spectacular. Ray "dkistner" > wrote in message oups.com... > Ray, I didn't mean to offend you by making the Thai mortar & pestle > suggestion. I was making it to everyone, not just you. (I'll bet you > eat like a king, you lucky dog you.) > > Diane > |
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Whew! That's good to know, Ray.
What's surprising to me is how therapeutic it is to grind with mine. Like meditating or doing yoga or something. I feel so much more connected to/tuned into the spice. It's almost a spiritual thing. That's gotta be good for the mead! |
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