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First Kit Questions
Hi Gang--
Long time homebrewer (been a few years since I've been able to brew, tho), but a first time winemaker. Considering I like my wine as much as beer, I figure that it's past time that I started trying to make wine. Anyway, I decided to start slow and try one of the 7.5 liter kits, and went with a Vintner's Reserve Riesling. Things have gone well so far, although my 2yo son nearly dunked his head in the reconstituted juice during the initial stirring process. (It's a longer story than that, trust me.) My questions don't really focus on things like bulk aging so much as how the wine is coming together. I made a point of topping off with a commercial riesling so I didn't thin things out too much, and as I near the end of the clarifying stage (per the instruction manual), the wine is starting to taste much more like a riesling. That said, the wine does taste a bit thin with little aromatics. Typical at this stage (the 4 week point), I presume?? In a VR kit, will bulk aging allow the wine to age better, or is bulk aging more beneficial to the VR reds and the 15-16 and whole juice kits? My assumption is that it would help some, but what would be a good rule of thumb for a VR 4-week kit? Second, from my homebrewing experience, matching the right yeast to the type of beer being brewed can be rather important. I'm wondering that if I had replaced the Red Star yeast (Premier Cuvee, I believe) with one from Wyeast/White Labs/Lalvin geared toward a riesling style whether it would have had a dramatic improvement in the outcome of the wine. Third, if one would use a Wyeast or White Labs yeast, do you use a starter amount of fresh juice or concentrate to get the yeast going before adding to the must?? I've used that successfully many times with homebrewing, but in that case, the default extra-light malt extract will fit in with most homebrewed beers, as opposed to a varietal for wine. Thanks in advance, --Mike L. |
First Kit Questions
Welcome, Mike,
You'll find lots of knowledgeable winemakers here so you've come to the right place. I'll chime in on a couple things you brought up. First, the VR kits are the low end of the spectrum in terms of quality. It's a good place to begin--that's where I began--but you won't get a stunning wine out of it. You should get a pleasant wine out of it however. That said, I think the whites tend to be a better final product from the low end kits than the reds. Your question about yeast is a good one. Yes, yeast can make some difference in the final product, but from what I understand, it makes a bigger difference with beer (I'm not a homebrewer though). Premier Cuvee is a solid, strong yeast that almost always ferments to completion which is why it is often included in kits. Not much risk of a stuck fermentation as long as you follow basic temperature guidelines. You can experiment with different yeasts with kits and end up with different characteristics. For example, maybe you prefer your Riesling to finish with some slight residual sugar and have stronger fruit flavors. In that case you could try Epernay 2 (Cote des Blancs). I love Cote des Blancs for fruity whites, but it ferments quite slowly, especially at low temperatures. It does allow you to stop a fermentation when the sugar level is where you want it by chilling it down in some way (I use a full size refrigerator). There are many, many strains which can provide slightly different results, but you can't expect miracles. You can never convert marginal fruit or juice into fantastic wine just by switching yeast. A great place to read about different wine strains is on Jack Keller's website. Jack contributes here frequently. Here is his yeast page: http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.asp Give your kit wine some time. It will improve, especially after a few months in the bottle. Good luck... "Michael Lawson" > wrote in message >... > Hi Gang-- > > Long time homebrewer (been a few years since I've > been able to brew, tho), but a first time winemaker. > Considering I like my wine as much as beer, I figure > that it's past time that I started trying to make wine. > > Anyway, I decided to start slow and try one of > the 7.5 liter kits, and went with a Vintner's Reserve > Riesling. Things have gone well so far, although my > 2yo son nearly dunked his head in the reconstituted > juice during the initial stirring process. (It's a longer > story than that, trust me.) > > My questions don't really focus on things like bulk > aging so much as how the wine is coming together. > I made a point of topping off with a commercial > riesling so I didn't thin things out too much, and as > I near the end of the clarifying stage (per the instruction > manual), the wine is starting to taste much more like > a riesling. That said, the wine does taste a bit thin > with little aromatics. Typical at this stage (the 4 week > point), I presume?? > > In a VR kit, will bulk aging allow the wine to age better, > or is bulk aging more beneficial to the VR reds and the > 15-16 and whole juice kits? My assumption is that it > would help some, but what would be a good rule of > thumb for a VR 4-week kit? > > Second, from my homebrewing experience, matching > the right yeast to the type of beer being brewed can > be rather important. I'm wondering that if I had replaced > the Red Star yeast (Premier Cuvee, I believe) with one > from Wyeast/White Labs/Lalvin geared toward a > riesling style whether it would have had a dramatic > improvement in the outcome of the wine. > > Third, if one would use a Wyeast or White Labs yeast, > do you use a starter amount of fresh juice or concentrate > to get the yeast going before adding to the must?? I've > used that successfully many times with homebrewing, > but in that case, the default extra-light malt extract will > fit in with most homebrewed beers, as opposed to a > varietal for wine. > > Thanks in advance, > > --Mike L. |
First Kit Questions
Brad B." > wrote: > First, the VR kits are the low end of the spectrum in terms of > quality. It's a good place to begin--that's where I began--but you > won't get a stunning wine out of it. You should get a pleasant wine > out of it however. What wine kits are at the 'high end of the spectrum"? DJ |
First Kit Questions
>
>What wine kits are at the 'high end of the spectrum"? > >DJ > Price will tell you everything. Not sure where you live, but in Canada cheap wine kits are $50 or less, good $70, excellent $100. If you get only a small bag of conentrate (ie you are adding 2 x that amount in water to the kit), it is a cheap kit. More expensive kits have 15 litres or more of cocentrate and some require no dilution (although there is debate as to whether those are "high end". Some of the 23 litre pails are simply cheap concentrate with the water added already. Price usually determines quality. |
First Kit Questions
"Denis Marier" > wrote in message ... > This is a very good question. There's no right answer to it. > First, we have to define quality explicitly. What our palates and tongs > have been accustomed too vary a great deal. Your upbringing and ethnic > origins are playing important roles in your taste for food and drinks. Not > to mention that taste can be developed. Very true. > We have made tests. My daughter bought expensive kits ($70.00 CAD and up) > and I buys the lowest prices kits ($30.00 - $40.00 CAD). The result, most > of the time, do not warrant the extra cost for the more expensive kit. Hmm. This reminds me; can one get Cellarcraft kits in the US still?? St. Pats decided that their kit and ingredient work was too successful and pulled the plug on all their ingredients and kits (Cellarcraft included). > The origin and purity of the water (not bottled > or distilled) used in wine making is at the base of > good Home making wine. I am fortunate our well > delivers excellent water. In homebrewing, distilled water is usually avoided for the reconstituting of the liquid or dried malt extract. Is it typically the same in reconstituting the concentrate from the wine kits? --Mike L. |
First Kit Questions
When I pay a little more for a wine kit ($37.00 - 41.00 CAD) . I noticed
that they include a pack of elderflower, oak chips or other ingredients to add flavor to the finish product. Adding ingredients during primary or secondary fermenting is not new. I was rise near an Italian neighborhood. Every family had a well guarded wine making recipe secret. Some added sliced apples, pears, oak chips or other ingredients during the juice fermentation. Still today, I do not know the ingredients that some of my friend's fathers added to their recipes. Although, each family were using the same type of grapes each finished product had a different taste. "Michael Lawson" > wrote in message ... > > "Denis Marier" > wrote in message > ... > > This is a very good question. There's no right answer to it. > > First, we have to define quality explicitly. What our palates and > tongs > > have been accustomed too vary a great deal. Your upbringing and > ethnic > > origins are playing important roles in your taste for food and > drinks. Not > > to mention that taste can be developed. > > Very true. > > > We have made tests. My daughter bought expensive kits ($70.00 CAD > and up) > > and I buys the lowest prices kits ($30.00 - $40.00 CAD). The > result, most > > of the time, do not warrant the extra cost for the more expensive > kit. > > Hmm. This reminds me; can one get Cellarcraft kits > in the US still?? St. Pats decided that their kit and > ingredient work was too successful and pulled the > plug on all their ingredients and kits (Cellarcraft > included). > > > The origin and purity of the water (not bottled > > or distilled) used in wine making is at the base of > > good Home making wine. I am fortunate our well > > delivers excellent water. > > In homebrewing, distilled water is usually avoided > for the reconstituting of the liquid or dried malt > extract. Is it typically the same in reconstituting > the concentrate from the wine kits? > > --Mike L. > > |
First Kit Questions
"Insprucegrove" > wrote in message ... > > Price will tell you everything. Not sure where you live, but in Canada cheap > wine kits are $50 or less, good $70, excellent $100. Sorry, I've made the $100 kits. I would never characterize the resulting wine as excellent. I'm sure it's better than what the $50 kits would have produced, but I'm afraid the best I can do is damn with faint praise. BTW, my good wines have medalled at the national competition, so I am capable of making a decent wine given a good starting point. Brian |
First Kit Questions
"Michael Lawson" > wrote in message ... That said, the wine does taste a bit thin > with little aromatics. Typical at this stage (the 4 week > point), I presume?? Yes, but unfortunately, it might not get much better. I'm not a big fan of kit wines, I'm afraid. > > In a VR kit, will bulk aging allow the wine to age better, > or is bulk aging more beneficial to the VR reds and the > 15-16 and whole juice kits? My assumption is that it > would help some, but what would be a good rule of > thumb for a VR 4-week kit? Give it 3 months. > > Second, from my homebrewing experience, matching > the right yeast to the type of beer being brewed can > be rather important. I'm wondering that if I had replaced > the Red Star yeast (Premier Cuvee, I believe) with one > from Wyeast/White Labs/Lalvin geared toward a > riesling style whether it would have had a dramatic > improvement in the outcome of the wine. I have been told by someone in the industry (not at liberty to say more) that at least one of the major Canadian kit producers tests their products with a variety of yeasts to find the ones that produce the most acceptable final product. According to them, some strains known for doing a good job when applied to similar grape-produced wines do not necessarily do a good job with the kits. I guess about all you can take from that is, if the trade sheets say "good for Pinot Noir" or "good for Riesling", that might not apply to the kit you're buying. If you want to go with something other than the supplied yeast, I would stick to an inexpensive dry yeast. The added expense of a smack pack might not translate into an improved wine. > Brian |
First Kit Questions
I respects your comments.
Have ever had Greek wine. Some have drunk it all their live and find it excellent. I do not like it that much because of the resin taste in it. Now some people prefers Ice wine because of its sweetness. If we make a testing panel with people coming from different ethic groups and ask them what is the best drinking wine we may never come to a consensus. I was on a wine testing panel and right away I detected that some wine had been filtered and had a chemical taste. While the other were giving it winning points. That did not mean that I was right in my finding. I have to give brown beer away because my family do not like it. Conversely, my friend only drinks brown Irish stout. Medals are giving as per the liking of the testing panel. Over here, the people from France made the statement at their wine festival in Quebec that wine made with concentrate was not wine. Are they correct in what they are saying, no they are not. But its good for the promotion of their french wine. Have a good day "Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Insprucegrove" > wrote in message > ... > > > > Price will tell you everything. Not sure where you live, but in Canada > cheap > > wine kits are $50 or less, good $70, excellent $100. > > Sorry, I've made the $100 kits. I would never characterize the resulting > wine as excellent. I'm sure it's better than what the $50 kits would have > produced, but I'm afraid the best I can do is damn with faint praise. > > BTW, my good wines have medalled at the national competition, so I am > capable of making a decent wine given a good starting point. > > Brian > > |
First Kit Questions
Dare I dip my oar in the water?
I am sorry but it tends to boil down to price as far as kits are concerned. I would never consider making a BK Vintners Reserve Kit ( or indeed any other equivalent quality red kit ). They are just too thin and totally unlike the wine varietals that they purport to be. Having said that I know a couple of "wine makers" in UK who consistently buy a type of very basic kit ( called Solomon Grundy Gold -- 7 day kit) at about a 1/3 of the price of VR kits ( which I wouldn't buy anyway). The resulting wine is metallic and off sweet and quite disgusting................. but obviously a lot of people buy it or it wouldn't survive ... and even more amazingly -- drink it! But I have known them for 5 years and they still stick to their "wine"and don't want to "improve their taste. So, wine makers are all self opinionated, ( not me of course!) -- Trevor A Panther In South Yorkshire, England Remove "PSANTISPAM" from my address line to reply. All outgoing mail is scanned by Norton Anti Virus for your protection too! "Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Michael Lawson" > wrote in message > ... > That said, the wine does taste a bit thin > > with little aromatics. Typical at this stage (the 4 week > > point), I presume?? > > Yes, but unfortunately, it might not get much better. I'm not a big fan of > kit wines, I'm afraid. > > > > > In a VR kit, will bulk aging allow the wine to age better, > > or is bulk aging more beneficial to the VR reds and the > > 15-16 and whole juice kits? My assumption is that it > > would help some, but what would be a good rule of > > thumb for a VR 4-week kit? > > Give it 3 months. > > > > Second, from my homebrewing experience, matching > > the right yeast to the type of beer being brewed can > > be rather important. I'm wondering that if I had replaced > > the Red Star yeast (Premier Cuvee, I believe) with one > > from Wyeast/White Labs/Lalvin geared toward a > > riesling style whether it would have had a dramatic > > improvement in the outcome of the wine. > > I have been told by someone in the industry (not at liberty to say more) > that at least one of the major Canadian kit producers tests their products > with a variety of yeasts to find the ones that produce the most acceptable > final product. According to them, some strains known for doing a good job > when applied to similar grape-produced wines do not necessarily do a good > job with the kits. I guess about all you can take from that is, if the trade > sheets say "good for Pinot Noir" or "good for Riesling", that might not > apply to the kit you're buying. If you want to go with something other than > the supplied yeast, I would stick to an inexpensive dry yeast. The added > expense of a smack pack might not translate into an improved wine. > > > Brian > > |
First Kit Questions
"Brian Lundeen" > wrote in message ... > > "Michael Lawson" > wrote in message > ... > That said, the wine does taste a bit thin > > with little aromatics. Typical at this stage (the 4 week > > point), I presume?? > > Yes, but unfortunately, it might not get much better. I'm not a big fan of > kit wines, I'm afraid. That's fine with me. If I go whole hog, I may end up going the from scratch route as well. I've got too many other hobbies, tho, so I may end up going with the premium kits or the sterilized juice simply because I haven't the space in the basement for a crusher and whatnot. > > In a VR kit, will bulk aging allow the wine to age better, > > or is bulk aging more beneficial to the VR reds and the > > 15-16 and whole juice kits? My assumption is that it > > would help some, but what would be a good rule of > > thumb for a VR 4-week kit? > > Give it 3 months. That I can do. No one's bothering it right now, and as long as my current stash of store bought bottles holds out, I'll be in good shape. Besides, I need to clear out the space for storing the batch in bottles when the time comes. > > Second, from my homebrewing experience, matching > > the right yeast to the type of beer being brewed can > > be rather important. I'm wondering that if I had replaced > > the Red Star yeast (Premier Cuvee, I believe) with one > > from Wyeast/White Labs/Lalvin geared toward a > > riesling style whether it would have had a dramatic > > improvement in the outcome of the wine. > > I have been told by someone in the industry (not at liberty to say more) > that at least one of the major Canadian kit producers tests their products > with a variety of yeasts to find the ones that produce the most acceptable > final product. According to them, some strains known for doing a good job > when applied to similar grape-produced wines do not necessarily do a good > job with the kits. I guess about all you can take from that is, if the trade > sheets say "good for Pinot Noir" or "good for Riesling", that might not > apply to the kit you're buying. If you want to go with something other than > the supplied yeast, I would stick to an inexpensive dry yeast. The added > expense of a smack pack might not translate into an improved wine. Thanks for the info. I'll have to remember to have a collection going before I try to experiment a bit. --Mike L. |
First Kit Questions
"Brad B." > wrote in message om... > Welcome, Mike, > > You'll find lots of knowledgeable winemakers here so you've come to > the right place. I'll chime in on a couple things you brought up. > First, the VR kits are the low end of the spectrum in terms of > quality. It's a good place to begin--that's where I began--but you > won't get a stunning wine out of it. You should get a pleasant wine > out of it however. That said, I think the whites tend to be a better > final product from the low end kits than the reds. Thanks for the welcome and intro. (My newsreader was a bit out of whack, so I got this post later than some of the others.) After perusing the Winemaker awards, I did notice that far more kits showed up in the white categories than the red ones, and I guessed that it was because the kits have a way to go in the reds. I suspect that Cellarcraft is onto the right track, however, with their crushed grape packs to essentially give their kits a shot in the arm. > Your question about yeast is a good one. Yes, yeast can make some > difference in the final product, but from what I understand, it makes > a bigger difference with beer (I'm not a homebrewer though). Premier > Cuvee is a solid, strong yeast that almost always ferments to > completion which is why it is often included in kits. Not much risk > of a stuck fermentation as long as you follow basic temperature > guidelines. You can experiment with different yeasts with kits and > end up with different characteristics. For example, maybe you prefer > your Riesling to finish with some slight residual sugar and have > stronger fruit flavors. In that case you could try Epernay 2 (Cote > des Blancs). I love Cote des Blancs for fruity whites, but it > ferments quite slowly, especially at low temperatures. It does allow > you to stop a fermentation when the sugar level is where you want it > by chilling it down in some way (I use a full size refrigerator). That's a different way of doing it. I'm used to lagering, where you have yeast that operates best at 45 F chugging along in a carboy in the basement for a couple of months, so using temperature to control the residual sugars will take some getting used to. > There are many, many strains which can provide slightly different > results, but you can't expect miracles. You can never convert > marginal fruit or juice into fantastic wine just by switching yeast. Heh. I can believe that. > A great place to read about different wine strains is on Jack Keller's > website. Jack contributes here frequently. Here is his yeast page: > http://winemaking.jackkeller.net/strains.asp Found it. Thanks for the tip. > Give your kit wine some time. It will improve, especially after a few > months in the bottle. Good luck... Thanks again for the info. --Mike L. |
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