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Default TN: Recent Food Wines (Soave, Aligoté, Chianti)

A few recent ones...

*2004 Inama Soave Classico - Italy, Veneto, Soave Classico (3/5/2006)*

During the summer, a new wine shop opened near my house. Not much to
see when I paid an early visit. Went back this weekend and saw the
Inama wines for the first time in Tokyo. Bright, light, and enticing
clear straw in the glass. Rich but bright and crystalline nose of pure
fresh-cut pears backed up by a little grass and a good shot of cool
stone. The palate is dancingly bright with the most minute hint of
spritz and nice acidity. A bit of citrus and apple join the pear to
form a bright white fruit core. Never big or round but manages to wash
and refresh every corner of the mouth before it exits gracefully with
one more hint of grass and stone. Even ignoring the much lower price, I
probably prefer this to the higher end cuvées, especially as a foil to
lime-driven vegetable tacos. Why don't I drink even more Soave?

*2002 Domaine Moillard Bourgogne-Aligoté - France, Burgundy,
Bourgogne-Aligoté (3/1/2006)*

Still the slightest flashes of green, but this has started to deepen
from its straw yellow start. Has a slightly sharp apple and rock and
fieldgrass nose that is immediately accessible and doesn't really
evolve over the course of a few days. On the palate, good front-end
bite and a little more substance than expected in the mid-palate.
Simple apple and taut citrus flavors along with a bit more (good)
grassiness on the (shortish) finish. I really like aligoté for its
tense and refreshing character. At best (from Lafarge or de Villaine
and the like), it can take on a certain roundness and depth without
losing its tautness. This wine lacks that roundness and depth, but
retains the tautness and is a foursquare effort for a producer from
whom I did not expect much. Good enough but not particularly exciting,
it did a fine job of standing up to bean noodles in a mildish kimchi
and vegetable broth. Won't buy again, but don't regret that I've
got a bottle or two left.

*1997 Villa di Geggiano Chianti Classico - Italy, Tuscany, Chianti,
Chianti Classico (2/27/2006)*

I love it when someone tells me my son has dashing good looks or is
smart or creative. But what sometimes makes me happiest is to hear the
phrase "plays well with others". He could survive any number of
shortcomings if he knows how to get on with others. For me, the vinous
equivalent is "goes well with food". If that is the case, the wine
can survive any number of flaws. This Chianti, in fact, is not flawed.
It's got a nice mouth-watering cherry juiciness, good acid for the
vintage, and enough aromatic complexity (herbs, tobacco, earth) to be
interesting. The palate depth and finish are adequate. And it marries
up with good Bolognese just beautifully. It's also got a slight
veneer of wood and a little cab blended in, neither of which I would
prefer. But I don't care so much when it plays so well with others.

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Default TN: Recent Food Wines (Soave, Aligoté, Chianti)

Nice notes (and sentiments about your son!). I like the regular Inama,
too (not the upper end one so much)

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