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Bill S.
 
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Default Diamond Creek, Silver Oak, Karl Lawrence, Havens....(lunch notes)

Back in the saddle after a self-imposed hiatus (in note taking, not
tasting) over the holidays.

These are notes from the once a month blind tasting lunch I arrange at
a local restaurant.

2002 Pierrette et Marc Guillemot Macon Villages 'Quintaine - this
small and apparently fanatically purist (no oak, or malo, all
biodynamic), producer puts out some interesting wine. There was LOT
going on in the nose here, including a hint of perfume, and mineral,
and while the wine seemed advanced in terms of colour it had lost left
on palate, juicy acidity and a great way to start the event.

2001 Rockford Eden Valley Riesling - I snuffled at this one a bit and
tasted it and then went out on a limb and guessed Australian Riesling
- sometimes you are hot (usually you are not...).The nose was
Riesling but elegant and not overstated, and the wine was pleasant on
entry, but cut off short at the end and is priced above many better
German Rieslings. Interesting, especially for those who thought that
Rockford only made Shiraz.


We noshed on a very nice course of white asparagus and smoked salmon
with a poached egg atop.

2000 Di Maio Norante 'Contado' Aglianaco del Molise - this has always
seemed to me to be a fairly international wine as opposed to a typical
old style Italian - to the point that identifying it as an Italian
wine takes a bit of doing, although I finally got there. It has
softened up in the last 2 years and drinks well now but probably has
4-5 useful years ahead of it. Cocoa and coffee in the nose, medium
weight with soft tannins and fair length. A bargain at the price.

2000 Apex Syrah - this Washington state producer has issued some
lacklustre wines, but starting about the 1999 vintage, there were some
more interesting things coming out of the cellar door and it became
worth watching. This wine had some nice dark fruit aromas with vanilla
and toasted bread notes, was dark purple and smooth and friendly,
ending sweet. Not overblown (a nice rest from over the top Aussies)
and ready to roll now and for the next 2-3 years.

1997 Havens Bourriquot - I am quite fond of this maker's merlots,
but their unorthodox (well outside the Right Bank, anyway) blend of 2/3
cab franc and 1/3 merlot is pretty interesting as well. Lots of
interest in the nose, featuring cherry and cocoa, and maybe a hint of
cassis. Smooth and elegant, it was neither too big nor too ripe. It
narrowed a tad at the end, but the overall impression was very good.

With a plate of mushrooms in veal demi on a thick slice of Salt Spring
Island goat cheese.

1990 Silver Oak Napa Cabernet - I thought that this wine had a
particularly interesting nose - the first thing that struck everyone
was a pronounced coconut element, but the vanilla and fruit were just
underneath. It was smooth and harmonious, sweet and long. It has peaked
and should be drunk in the near term (this was from my cellar, which
tends to be cooler than many).

1999 Karl Lawrence Napa Cabernet - we never see this wine in Canada
and it is always great fun to have a lady introduce me to new
things....a dark, young concentrated wine with a currant and plum nose,
layers of sweet fruit on palate, but the wine deftly avoids being to
ripe, too concentrated, or too tannic. Lovely balance and a pleasure to
get to try it in youth. I bet these wines age well - anyone comment?

With a tasty course of rabbit prepared with coarse mustard.

1978 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace Cabernet - I was guessing in the
mid 80s on this, but 1978 made sense when we were told and the
characteristic sweetness of fruit might have eventually led us that
way. A touch of vinyl in the nose, that blew off then a complex, mature
warm nose, great flavour concentration and very good length. Proof that
American cab will age well - and we didn't prearrange the
predominance of Americans this time - it was entirely random.

1978 Diamond Creek Gravelly Meadow Cabernet - darker than the
previous wine, and the nose was even better, showing tobacco, cedar and
anise. It was also darker and had even better length. Of course when I
got home I had to look up my notes on the 1978 Volcanic Hill we had at
one of these lunches last year and it was a step up from the Gravelly
Meadow. Then I found my notes on a blind tasting of 1978 and 1979
Gravelly Meadow against 1978 and 1979 Pichon Lalande and realised how
lucky I've been to taste these older vintages so many times. Great
wines.

2001 Dom. Duloquet Coteaux de Layon "Quintessence" - my previous
experience with this producer had been most discouraging - a simple
Anjou wine I deemed not to be worth the sub $10 cost. This was totally
different. Very sweet, huge nose decent acidity and a floral hint at
the end.

Served with cheese.

An especially nice lunch with interesting wines. Very hard to go back
to the office afterward!

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