CHRISTMAS DINNER - At home in Tokyo (12/25/2005)

Cathryn's parents and brother and sister-in-law were in town for the
holidays. We also had Richard, Naoko, and the kids to join us for
dinner.

1. Settling in

*N.V. José Michel & Fils Champagne Cuvée du Père Houdart - France,
Champagne, Moussy*

Some goldish depth to the yellow and a mousse that is full but somehow
seems to move almost in slow motion - produces an interesting
anticipatory sort of urgency to take the first sip. The nose produces
an immediate impression of deep white plums and brioche, with a general
bass-level clay kind of mineral behind it. With a search and a sniff,
some apple and honey and nuts are there as well. Palate is smooth and
soft, with a mousse that is not quite creamy, but certainly smooth.
After more deep plum fruit and toasted nuts and butter, there seems to
be a grilled mushroom kind of character on the lingering finish.
Completely different to the V-F, this is all about depth and maturity.
An interesting blend of base wines from '85, '86, and '88,
recently disgorged and having a fairly high proportion of Pinot
Meunier. A clear case for what that grape can do with a little respect
thrown its way.

2. Mingling with stand up appetizers

Fresh local oysters on the half shell; diver scallops and razor-thin
slices of lemon wrapped in fresh yuba and fried; and fresh medium
shrimp fried tempura style but with a very ligth dusting of panko added
on -- the fried items with a ponzu-mayo dipping sauce

*1964 Domaine Bourillon Dorléans Vouvray Sec - France, Loire Valley,
Touraine, Vouvray*

This a deep gold, but still has a surprising brightness for its age.
Nose shows some nutty/sherry-flavored oxydised notes upon pouring.
However, there's still fresh ripe apple fruit, along with more mature
sweet figs. Underneath all of this is a spine of crushed stone that is
consistent through both the nose and the palate. The palate initially
shows the same oxidation as the nose, along with nectarine and fig
fruit. It is a pleasant surprise when, over the course of about an
hour, the oxydised element actually recedes and the wine picks up a
sense of fruit freshness on the nose and acid definition on the palate.
There's always a slight rancio character - this is past its prime
- but the wine becomes much younger with time in the glass. This far
exceeded my low expectations for a 41-year old wine that was modest to
start. Then again, I always underestimate the longevity and capacity
for evolution of good chenin blanc. Not the best match with the food,
but a pleasure to drink.

*1990 Guy Michel Coteaux Champenois Guy Michel - France, Champagne,
Pierry, Coteaux Champenois*

Pale yellow, with darker hints around the rim. The surprisingly
youthful look carries through to a nose that simply screams chalk and
tart pears. Underneath this initial youthful presentation is a bit of
more mature and ripe apple, plus some grilled nut that hints at a bit
more underlying maturity. On the palate, the wine is a little sharp and
is texturally thin, though not thin of flavor. A bit of slightly exotic
citrus joins the white tree fruit, but this is really all about chalk
and acid brightness. The mid-palate fills with chalk that is
reminiscent of upper Loire chèvre in its chalky stage - both in
flavor and texture. The finish lingers a bit with more chalk and
just-ripe apple. I'm not sure I'd want to drink this alone, but
this was fantastic with the fresh oysters and fried shellfish. This
chardonnay from Pierry is an absolute testament to terrior and the
ageability and lurking character of what can seem like thin and acidic
base wines.

3. Sitting down to -- pasta??? or rice???

Traditional Sicilian tuba -- oven-baked terrine of eggy,
pecorino-flavored carnaiolo rice on the outside with tomato-sauced
penne and fresh peas on the inside.

*1990 Villa de Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva - Italy, Tuscany,
Chianti, Chianti Rufina*

Clear and bright red-orange, noticeably lighter at the edge. Nose is
still bright with earth and sour cherry, along a with a little
mushroomy depth. Palate shows good acid brightness and complete absence
of tannins. Initially quite light, but cherry fruit actually picks up a
little weight with some air. Not quite thin, but definitely to the lean
side of the scale. Strong features are a pleasantly sinewy texture,
good acidic cherry-toned Rufina fruit, and a nice earthiness that comes
back out on the finish. A good accompaniment to the tuba, this is not
yet long in the tooth but does need to be consumed. This was a great
value. I'm glad I've still got two more bottles.

4. And now for the bird

Long Island duck roasted with sourish orange-lemon-honey-black
pepper-cinnamon glaze. Sauce of defatted pan remainders enriched with
Champagne and butter then reduced. Gratinée of potatoes that cooked
with the duck in its fat then were browned with a little cream.
Haricots verts sautéed in walnut oil with shallots and crushed walnut.

*1993 Hubert de Montille Volnay Les Mitans 1er Cru - France, Burgundy,
Côte de Beaune, Volnay*

Bright reddish burgundy, still pretty solid at rim. Threw a small
amount of sediment when decanted. Opened and decanted about an hour and
a half before serving, the first impression from the decanter had it
very much closed up, with some sweet dark fruit and a little earth on
the nose, but not much more. When poured, it was much more open, but
still far from generous. The nose showed a nice concentration and
density of dark berry richness, along with an undertone of earth and
anise. On the palate, it first shows as being a bit rough, with
slightly dusty tannins overwhelming the sappy berry fruit and bright
acidity. However, a little time comes to the rescue and the brightness
and focus of the acidity, plus the silkiness of the fruit, make this
much more pleasurable and Volnay-like. The lingering sweet berry and
earth finish promises a lot. At a bare minimum, this still needs a good
three to five years to finish softening and integrating (and is
drinking surprisingly younger than the Pommard Pez), but is already
enjoyable with meaty dishes. Provided a very nice match with the duck.

5. Just a wafer-thin mint (or more)

Charlotte russe (like a trifle but lighter -- without the fruit and
sherry/port/brandy)

*N.V. Franck Bonville Ratafia de Champagne - France, Champagne, Avize,
Ratafia de Champagne*

The color of a very light brandy, this has a nose that gives off
delightful and slightly spirity wafts of orange liqueur. Along with the
orange, closer inspection shows macerated raisin and pear. The palate
is warm but not at all hot, with sweet caramelized pears,
chocolate-covered orange peel, and Christmas pudding spice. Deceptively
gentle, this is dangerous as one wants to sip and sip and sip, but
there is 18% alcohol hidden under the fruit and spice. One of the best
accompaniments to charlotte russe that I have ever found.

Wines showed well in general and worked especially well with the food.
Great company as always. I am blessed to have my cousin Richard and his
Japanese family living here in Tokyo. The fact that he is a
terroir-obsessed wine geek is just lagniappe.

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