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Mark S
 
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Default TN: fatback of life

As in fat wines for cold times: the colder weather brings out the
desire for lusting after the BIG wines of Olde, kicking and screaming
the auld lang sine before winter's heel digs in here for another three
months. But as they say in these parts, it builds character. I'm not
sure if any 'character' were found in these wines, but they were of
interest and were consumed instead of being poured in the windshield
washer well in place of the antifrozen-water, so I guess that's a good
thing.

Anyway, the Thickfest began with a Rosenblum Petite Sirah 'Pickett
Road' 1999 which lived up to its blackish purple mane. Exhuberant
blackberries and a tarry floral perfume waft from the glass. Strong
fruit backed by strong tannins, walking through a thick berry patch
with only your skivies on and California warmth of 14.4% alcohol. Well
made, despite a shortish finish. Next stop, the Paternoster Aglianico
del Vulture 'Don Anselmo' 1998 . Perhaps not the best year to be
trying out for the Upstate Aglianico Show Trials©, but, what the hey:
it's what I had on hand. This is a muddy deep maroon color, with stewed
cherry compote and bitter rabe on the nose. This is showing in an
austere, muscular way right now, like an old Grecco-Roman marble
statue, looking at you all well-toned and approvingly but without any
emotional attachment. I do catch the juice of broken morello cherries,
bitter cooked greens, old library books sitting on dusty shelves,
distant wood smoke, and metallic tannins on the finish. The first night
was not too fun, but it actually showed much better the following
evening. Next up, another showing of the Carlisle 'Two Acres' Russian
River Valley 2001 , a field blend of mourvedre-petite
sirah-valdepeñas-alicante bouschet for those taking notes. Clocked at
14.8% alcohol, this - surprisingly - does not come across as big. The
nose here is very perfumed, with berries, rosehips, and cocoa.
Initially, there's light rose & jasmine, along with shriveled
blackberry, pomegranite concentrate, and raspberries, along with a
smooth finish. Better showing than a previous bottle from a year or 2
ago. The simpleton: Laurent Brusset, Côtes du Rhône, 2004 . Simple,
quaffable red. Very light in character, almost grapey but not gooey,
which wins some points. Okay for the price ($12), but a few dollars
less would qualify it for rebuy.

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