THANKSGIVING ROUND I - TAC -- American Room (11/24/2005)

We had guests in town and I had to work today, so we headed to the club
for Thanksgiving dinner. We'll do the full-bore, home-cooked version on
Saturday with family and local friends.

This means we had to choose wines off a list that had a glaring lack of
cru Beaujolais (which will be the Saturday reds) and a challenging lack
of choice among Champagnes by the glass and even moderately mature
still wines. Oh well, these occasions mean I get to try wines I might
not otherwise buy or taste.


*N.V. Laurent-Perrier Champagne Cuvée Rosé Brut - France, Champagne*

By the glass pour from a new bottle. Light salmon color with somewhat
dissipated mousse. Bead was nice and tight but just seemed to lack
vigor. Nose was pure and red fruit-driven, with red raspberry and just
a little fresh plum. Background scents included a hint of dark flower
and maybe a little earth. On the palate, in good balance with light
berry tones and a pleasant touch of structural depth and woodsiness
(not woodiness). Quite correct, but lacking any particular excitement.
A basic NV made slightly more interesting by the hint of structure and
berry from the bit of red grape extraction.

*1998 Paul Blanck Riesling Schlossberg Vieilles Vignes - France,
Alsace, Kientzheim & Sigolsheim, Alsace Grand Cru AOC*

Bright yellow just starting to take on the slightest hint of gold
richness. Nose is initially a bit musty and chemical - have to do a
double-take before telling the server that it is okay - but this
blows off in only a minute or two to reveal a round lanolin-like
waxiness in the nose that is almost textural, along with apricot and
tropical fruit, some floral character, and an intriguing nuttiness.
Underneath it all is just the tiniest hint of petrol. On the palate,
this has a definite oily richness that is evident on entry, helps to
spread flavor throughout the mid-palate and seems to make the finish
cling and last. Cutting through this is a little minerality - just
enough to ease the texture and let the lemon, tropical fruit and floral
nectar flavors come out. Pleasant enough by itself, this really shines
with the crab/crawfish timbale and the slightly spicy gumbo. Perfect
for the food and the moment, but I worry whether this has the acid
structure to develop long-term.

*1993 Jacques Prieur Corton-Bressandes - France, Burgundy, Côte de
Beaune, Aloxe-Corton*

Decanted for about ½ hour. Rapidly maturing red in the glass. Nose
absolutely screams Epoisses as soon as it is poured, settling down into
macerated ripe cherry, some mushroom, and maybe a touch of anise.
Palate seems fully mature, with very little evident tannin and a bit of
an acid deficit. Fruit is primarily cherry pie filling with some
slightly brighter berry highlights. No concentration issues, as the
wine is full from entry to the medium length finish, but the fruit just
seems a little flat. Does an admirable job of standing up to the
typically difficult muddle of Thanksgiving flavors, but fails to
generate any real zip or interest. Possesses neither the broad
shoulders and depth of flavor I look for from Corton nor the precision
and transparency that has made '93 my favorite recent Burg vintage. I
imagine this was a bit sexy in a very ripe way when young, but now it
is just ho-hum. Not of grand cru quality.

*1985 Taylor (Fladgate) Porto Vintage - Portugal, Douro, Porto*

By the glass pour from a nearly full bottle. Purplish hints to
generally deep red robe with good density - not quite opaque. Nose is
rich with deep, dark berry fruits and a little mocha spiciness. After
few minutes in the glass, this gets a little spirity but maintains its
sweet fruit character. Perhaps there's a bit of toasted nutmeat, but
not a lot of complexity beyond that. On the palate, rich and moderately
sweet fruit and a continuing spirity character mask what tannin there
is. There's a regal, purple velvet softness to this through the
mid-palate, until the alcohol comes out again on the finish. Not
particularly complex at 20 years of age. That's okay, but in that
case it should be more youthful. Instead it has a softness that makes
me question whether this will get much better. Pleasant enough to
drink, but disappointing for the house.


Nice dinner with friends. Wines were perfectly good enough for enjoying
with dinner and entertaining a non-geek crowd, but the only one I'd be
likely to order or buy again is the Schlossberg.


Jim