TN: '89 Meyney at Kittle House
 

Last night was the 5th anniversary of our first kiss, and I took Betsy
to Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua, where she had somehow never
eaten. I used to think of the Kittle House as great list but only
moderately good food, but a visit last year showed a turnaround in the
kitchen. While the Kittle House winelist is probably the best north of
the city, the fact that this anniversary fell on a Monday, when they
offer free corkage, appealed to the cheapskate in me. About 2 hours
before dinner I double-decanted a bottle of 1989 Meyney. A moment's
concern- is that TCA- before deciding it was just the Cordier funk.

We were shown to a window table with a nice view. Betsy ordered the
"just-warm" Nantucket oysters with roe (tobiko I think) and cr=E8me
fr=E2iche. I got crabmeat and smoked trout cakes (with a avocado mayo).
Both appetizers were tasty. I ordered Betsy a half-glass of the 2002
Brocard Petit Chablis. More fruit-driven than mineral, but excellent
acidity and a nice clean finish, no sign of oak. B/B+
I had a half-glass of the 2004 Terredora Falanghina. Very floral nose,
white fruit on the palate with a nuttiness to the finish. Balanced
acidity (not as zippy as the Petit Chablis). long finish. B+

We had an amuse of gazpacho with warm goat cheese foam that we enjoyed.


On to the 1989 Meyney (St. Estephe). Waiter had put it back in a
decanter, and brought to the table with nice stems. Nose still seems
slightly off at first, but by the time our main courses came whatever
that was - not TCA- had blown off. Full and rich, a bit softer in both
tannins and acidity than I remembered. Nose of cassis and cedar, ripe
blackcurrant fruit dominates on the palate. But not a fruit bomb,
there's some restraint there, as well as notes of earth, leather, and
chocolate. A pleasant herbiness emerges with time. A-/B+

Betsy enjoyed her loin of lamb , accompanied by potatoes roasted
w/coriander and a spinach puree. I had the very good "Steak & Eggs", a
filet topped with a quail egg and accompanied by sunchokes, fingelrling
potatoes, shiitake puree, and carrots. We also had a very good side of
broccoli rabe w/garlic.

Betsy seldom orders chocolate, but went for a "Valrhona purse ", warm
chocolate in a puff pastry wrap. I enjoyed a cheese plate (manchego,
pecorino, garrotxa). Nice night with nice service and very good food.
=20
Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.

In oups.com,
DaleW > types these words of wisdom:
> Last night was the 5th anniversary of our first kiss, and I took Betsy
> to Crabtree's Kittle House in Chappaqua, where she had somehow never
> eaten. I used to think of the Kittle House as great list but only
> moderately good food, but a visit last year showed a turnaround in the
> kitchen. While the Kittle House winelist is probably the best north of
> the city, the fact that this anniversary fell on a Monday, when they
> offer free corkage, appealed to the cheapskate in me. About 2 hours
> before dinner I double-decanted a bottle of 1989 Meyney. A moment's
> concern- is that TCA- before deciding it was just the Cordier funk.
>
> We were shown to a window table with a nice view. Betsy ordered the
> "just-warm" Nantucket oysters with roe (tobiko I think) and crème
> friche. I got crabmeat and smoked trout cakes (with a avocado mayo).
> Both appetizers were tasty. I ordered Betsy a half-glass of the 2002
> Brocard Petit Chablis. More fruit-driven than mineral, but excellent
> acidity and a nice clean finish, no sign of oak. B/B+
> I had a half-glass of the 2004 Terredora Falanghina. Very floral nose,
> white fruit on the palate with a nuttiness to the finish. Balanced
> acidity (not as zippy as the Petit Chablis). long finish. B+
>
> We had an amuse of gazpacho with warm goat cheese foam that we
> enjoyed.
>
>
> On to the 1989 Meyney (St. Estephe). Waiter had put it back in a
> decanter, and brought to the table with nice stems. Nose still seems
> slightly off at first, but by the time our main courses came whatever
> that was - not TCA- had blown off. Full and rich, a bit softer in both
> tannins and acidity than I remembered. Nose of cassis and cedar, ripe
> blackcurrant fruit dominates on the palate. But not a fruit bomb,
> there's some restraint there, as well as notes of earth, leather, and
> chocolate. A pleasant herbiness emerges with time. A-/B+
>
> Betsy enjoyed her loin of lamb , accompanied by potatoes roasted
> w/coriander and a spinach puree. I had the very good "Steak & Eggs", a
> filet topped with a quail egg and accompanied by sunchokes,
> fingelrling potatoes, shiitake puree, and carrots. We also had a very
> good side of broccoli rabe w/garlic.
>
> Betsy seldom orders chocolate, but went for a "Valrhona purse ", warm
> chocolate in a puff pastry wrap. I enjoyed a cheese plate (manchego,
> pecorino, garrotxa). Nice night with nice service and very good food.
>
> Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
> wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
> drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
> promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.


Congrats on your kissing anniversary :)

I bought the Meyney 89 as a future and have 6 bottles left. I absolutely
agree with your notes. It is a wonderful wine. Wish I had bought a few more
cases.


--
Lew/+Silat