TN: mature Chianti, St Innocent, and that second (third?) of Gruaud
 

Friday Betsy was working, I was tired, and ....to my shame ...bought a
takeout/warmup meal. Got a pasta (ziti?) bolognese and a couple
jalapeno poppers at a local branch of an Arthur Avenue deli. Opened a
1994 Fonterutoli Chianti Classico. Not a strong vintage, but I always
like the 3 Fs. Or do I? At first taste this seems thin and dilute. I
come very close to dumping. But over the next 3-4 hours one of the more
amazing revivals/transformations I've ever experienced occurs. Over
time, some distinct black cherry and plum notes emerge. Some mineral
and a little tobacco. This isn't a earthmoving Chianti, and could use a
bit more acidic edge. But WAY better than first taste. An argument for
producer over vintage. B

Saturday I made some slow-cooked Alaskan king salmon, with some
anchovy-cooked mushrooms and broccoli. I opened a 2003 St. Innocent
"Villages" Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Apparently a young-vines
combo from several vineyards. Medium-bodied, sweet cherry and raspberry
fruit. Not a lot of secondary characteristics or nuance, but a good
varietally correct wine. Decent QPR at $20. B/B+

Over a couple nights also tried a 2003 Domaine de la Pepiere (Marc
Olivier) Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie. Riper and easier than
previous vintages, but fun and tasty. Very minerally (more than I
remember from previous tastes).B/B+

Saturday afternoon Im was in Tarrytown, stopped in a local store. A
distributor's rep was there, pouring a few wines. I tried two:
2001 La Buxynoise Montagny "Chagnots" 1er Cru
Bright apple fruit, a hint of oak, ultimately short and simple. B-

1999 Chevalier du Gruaud-Larose
Some Bordeaux-earth on nose, modest cassis fruit. Quite short on
finish. B-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency

JALAPENO POPPERS?! oh how the mightly have fallen!

Just kidding! But it got me to thinking- what wine would you optimally
pair with poppers? The spice and green of the pepper, the heaviness of
the deep frying, and then there's the cheese (what kind of cheese do
they use on those? Mozzarella, right?)

in article , DaleW at
wrote on 4/24/05 10:54 AM:

> Friday Betsy was working, I was tired, and ....to my shame ...bought a
> takeout/warmup meal. Got a pasta (ziti?) bolognese and a couple
> jalapeno poppers at a local branch of an Arthur Avenue deli.

Pasta Bolognese take-out? Dale, I'm never quite sure whether to be more
envious of your wine experiences or of your menus. Usually both!! You are
truly an advocate of the relationship of good food and good wine. Salud!!

Not sure I get the poppers, either, though I have had some REALLY GOOD
poppers. Never with Pasta Bolognese, but some REALLY GOOD poppers.

;o)

in article , DaleW at
wrote on 4/24/05 10:54 AM:

> Friday Betsy was working, I was tired, and ....to my shame ...bought a
> takeout/warmup meal. Got a pasta (ziti?) bolognese and a couple
> jalapeno poppers at a local branch of an Arthur Avenue deli.

Pasta Bolognese take-out? Dale, I'm never quite sure whether to be more
envious of your wine experiences or of your menus. Usually both!! You are
truly an advocate of the relationship of good food and good wine. Salud!!

Not sure I get the poppers, either, though I have had some REALLY GOOD
poppers. Never with Pasta Bolognese, but some REALLY GOOD poppers.

;o)

"DaleW" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Friday Betsy was working, I was tired, and ....to my shame ...bought a
> takeout/warmup meal. Got a pasta (ziti?) bolognese and a couple
> jalapeno poppers at a local branch of an Arthur Avenue deli.

Hi,
I'm from the area also. Would you be kind enough to give me the name of the
deli?

The deli is Battaglia Brothers. Not a full-service butcher like the
Arthur Avenue branch (but they can grind some veal or lamb if you
want). Their fresh mozzarella isn't as good as DiPaolo's (but better
than anyplace else around here). Pretty good homemade sausage,
soppersata, etc.

Not sure re cheese- definitely a stronger flavor than mozzarella. If I
have to guess I'd say fontina and cheddar.

I actually ate the poppers as an appetizer before the wine. But I'd go
for a crisp white to cut through the frying. You know, most jalapeno's
these days just aren't that hot- these weren't- and the cheese mutes
what heat there is. Try a Gruner! :)

Not sure re cheese- definitely a stronger flavor than mozzarella. If I
have to guess I'd say fontina and cheddar.

I actually ate the poppers as an appetizer before the wine. But I'd go
for a crisp white to cut through the frying. You know, most jalapeno's
these days just aren't that hot- these weren't- and the cheese mutes
what heat there is. Try a Gruner! :)

This was just laziness. I had a long day, and my stepson was eagerly
awaiting my car (he just got license, and won't have acar for 2 more
weeks). This was fastest, easiest thing I could do. Not a gourmet
experience- this deli just has an assortment of warmable dishes in
takeout containers.Servicable, not envy-inspiring!

On 25 Apr 2005 05:01:52 -0700, "DaleW" > wrote:

>Not sure re cheese- definitely a stronger flavor than mozzarella. If I
>have to guess I'd say fontina and cheddar.
>
>I actually ate the poppers as an appetizer before the wine. But I'd go
>for a crisp white to cut through the frying. You know, most jalapeno's
>these days just aren't that hot- these weren't- and the cheese mutes
>what heat there is. Try a Gruner! :)

Ahh, you New Yawkers fiddling with chiles--it's a thing to behold.

The cheese could have been mozzarella, but more often in SW cuisine
(New Mexican or Tex-Mex), the cheese is jack. There is an authentic
Mexican cheese, but the name escapes me at the moment. It's a bit more
tart than jack, but the same consistency as mozzarella (except for the
fresh curd style of mozz.)

Use of an Italian cheese like fontina or an English such as cheddar
would be unusual although not unheard of for a stuffed jalapeno. Colby
is occasionally used in chile rellenos which are the big brother of
your poppers--made with poblanos.

The heat of the jalapeno is mitigated considerably by three factors,
first the removal of the seeds and membranes from the interior, second
the cooking, and third the cheese/breading (if used).

You've got to come down to God's country around Santa Fe/Taos and
taste what can be done with the entire panoply of chiles. (Or maybe
visit Rick Bayless' place in Chicago....)


Ed Rasimus
Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret)
"When Thunder Rolled"
www.thunderchief.org
www.thundertales.blogspot.com

Ed Rasimus wrote:

> The cheese could have been mozzarella, but more often in SW cuisine
> (New Mexican or Tex-Mex), the cheese is jack. There is an authentic
> Mexican cheese, but the name escapes me at the moment. It's a bit more
> tart than jack, but the same consistency as mozzarella (except for the
> fresh curd style of mozz.)

Ed,
Since Jalapeño poppers are an item unknown in Mexico (aside from
swanky bars in Mexico City probably), one can speculate endelessly on
what or might not be appropriate (apropos of another thread, poppers
would almost certainly qualify -- arguably with the burrito -- as
another quintessentially American dish). Taking our cue from chile
rellenos, though, the cheese would be asadero (aka "Chihuahua"), a white
cows' milk cheese very similar to unaged Monterey jack.

Mark Lipton

p.s. Not to start another food-related argument, but I actually find
the chile selection in the SW to be a bit limited: in New Mexico, the
New Mexico chile, both fresh and dried, is ubiquitous IME. It's not so
easy to find the "holy trinity" of dried chiles (for a good mole,
f'rinstance): ancho, mulato y pasilla. Perhaps I just haven't shopped
in the right places, though...

On Mon, 25 Apr 2005 13:37:22 -0700, Mark Lipton >
wrote:

>Ed Rasimus wrote:
>
>> The cheese could have been mozzarella, but more often in SW cuisine
>> (New Mexican or Tex-Mex), the cheese is jack. There is an authentic
>> Mexican cheese, but the name escapes me at the moment. It's a bit more
>> tart than jack, but the same consistency as mozzarella (except for the
>> fresh curd style of mozz.)
>
>Ed,
> Since Jalapeño poppers are an item unknown in Mexico (aside from
>swanky bars in Mexico City probably), one can speculate endelessly on
>what or might not be appropriate (apropos of another thread, poppers
>would almost certainly qualify -- arguably with the burrito -- as
>another quintessentially American dish). Taking our cue from chile
>rellenos, though, the cheese would be asadero (aka "Chihuahua"), a white
>cows' milk cheese very similar to unaged Monterey jack.

Ahh, the asadero might be the name that was eluding my semi-senile
memory. We've got a number of excellent Mexican mercados in Colorado
Springs and when we still lived in New Mexico there was never a
problem finding the traditional ingredients.
>
>Mark Lipton
>
>p.s. Not to start another food-related argument, but I actually find
>the chile selection in the SW to be a bit limited: in New Mexico, the
>New Mexico chile, both fresh and dried, is ubiquitous IME. It's not so
>easy to find the "holy trinity" of dried chiles (for a good mole,
>f'rinstance): ancho, mulato y pasilla. Perhaps I just haven't shopped
>in the right places, though...

I think your final phrase is the key. Finding the "right places" can
be problematic. But, at this moment, I've got a stock in the basement
of ancho, chipotle, serrano, poblano, mulato, cascabel and a couple of
others--all in dried, whole format. The local Whole Foods now offers
the spectrum in powdered format so you don't get into the
reconstitution drill before use. In the fall, we even get fresh green
chiles from Hatch and they roast for you.

If all else fails, Coyote Cafe in Santa Fe offers telephone and web
site ordering. If you need something for a recipe, give them a
call--odds are they've got it.



Ed Rasimus
Fighter Pilot (USAF-Ret)
"When Thunder Rolled"
www.thunderchief.org
www.thundertales.blogspot.com

"DaleW" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> The deli is Battaglia Brothers. Not a full-service butcher like the
> Arthur Avenue branch (but they can grind some veal or lamb if you
> want). Their fresh mozzarella isn't as good as DiPaolo's (but better
> than anyplace else around here). Pretty good homemade sausage,
> soppersata, etc.

Thanks for sharing the info - I frequent many of the same.
>