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Old 10-01-2005, 10:27 PM
Dale Williams
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Default TN: Wine with Capon (Mugnier, Suduiraut, Roulot)

Sunday I spent most of the day running a meeting; as I arrived home Betsy
informed me she had invited friends for dinner. As our friend Alex had done
fondue for 40 night before, she thought they deserved a meal. So Alex, Hilary,
and their three children came to share our capon. We had appetizers of salmon
roe on sour cream and cucumber; then sat down to a first course of a spicy
butternut squash soup with apple and crème friche. The first wine was the 2002
Guy Roulot Bourgogne Blanc. I've liked the Roulot Bourgogne in past vintages,
and frankly expected to be wowwed by the 2002. This was my second bottle, and
it didn't happen. Very thin upon opening, after a bit it filled out. But while
it got better, it never got past a very simple nose and palate. I preferred the
'99 & '00 (I can't remember trying '01). B-

Main course was roasted capon with a cognac-mushroom sauce, accompanied by
sauteed potatoes as well as red cabbage. We enjoyed some 3 day old Brunello, as
well as the 2000 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny. This isn't one of the light thin
2000s, there's good concentration in the bright red fruit, and a nice earthy
note. Deep raspberry fruit, just a hint of vanilla/oak, long mineral finish.
Drinking well now, but no hurry. A-

Salad and then some cheeses, then some cake for the dessert-eaters. For my
dessert (well, I shared), a 375 of the 1980 Suduiraut. Pretty good year for
Sauternes from what I understand, and the bottle seemed in good shape. Light
color for mature Sauternes. My initial impression was youth- this didn't seem
old at all. Blind I would have guessed no more than 12 years old or so. That's
the good news. The bad news is that it also didn't have the complexity I would
have expected in a 25 year old Sauternes from a good house in a good vintage.
Sweetness predominated, there's decent apricot fruit, ok acidity, but not much
in the way of secondary aromas and flavors. Still, this was something like $12
on closeout, hard to complain. B

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a
good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where
it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy,
and certainly not of consistency

Dale Williams
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