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TN: Wine with Capon (Mugnier, Suduiraut, Roulot)
Sunday I spent most of the day running a meeting; as I arrived home Betsy
informed me she had invited friends for dinner. As our friend Alex had done fondue for 40 night before, she thought they deserved a meal. So Alex, Hilary, and their three children came to share our capon. We had appetizers of salmon roe on sour cream and cucumber; then sat down to a first course of a spicy butternut squash soup with apple and crème friche. The first wine was the 2002 Guy Roulot Bourgogne Blanc. I've liked the Roulot Bourgogne in past vintages, and frankly expected to be wowwed by the 2002. This was my second bottle, and it didn't happen. Very thin upon opening, after a bit it filled out. But while it got better, it never got past a very simple nose and palate. I preferred the '99 & '00 (I can't remember trying '01). B- Main course was roasted capon with a cognac-mushroom sauce, accompanied by sauteed potatoes as well as red cabbage. We enjoyed some 3 day old Brunello, as well as the 2000 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny. This isn't one of the light thin 2000s, there's good concentration in the bright red fruit, and a nice earthy note. Deep raspberry fruit, just a hint of vanilla/oak, long mineral finish. Drinking well now, but no hurry. A- Salad and then some cheeses, then some cake for the dessert-eaters. For my dessert (well, I shared), a 375 of the 1980 Suduiraut. Pretty good year for Sauternes from what I understand, and the bottle seemed in good shape. Light color for mature Sauternes. My initial impression was youth- this didn't seem old at all. Blind I would have guessed no more than 12 years old or so. That's the good news. The bad news is that it also didn't have the complexity I would have expected in a 25 year old Sauternes from a good house in a good vintage. Sweetness predominated, there's decent apricot fruit, ok acidity, but not much in the way of secondary aromas and flavors. Still, this was something like $12 on closeout, hard to complain. B Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency Dale Dale Williams Drop "damnspam" to reply |
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Dale Williams wrote: > > Main course was roasted capon with a cognac-mushroom sauce, accompanied by > sauteed potatoes as well as red cabbage. We enjoyed some 3 day old Brunello, as > well as the 2000 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny. This isn't one of the light thin > 2000s, there's good concentration in the bright red fruit, and a nice earthy > note. Deep raspberry fruit, just a hint of vanilla/oak, long mineral finish. > Drinking well now, but no hurry. A- Thanks for the notes. I always look forward to reading them because they're entertaining and, at least from reading them, my palate seems to be pretty much in tune with yours. Chambolle is one of my favorite appellations and I like Mugnier's delightfully transparent style. I've heard good things about but haven't tried the Ann Gros village Chambolle, but I can't think of anyone else who approaches Mugnier for the price. If they're out there, someone please let me know! Years ago, I picked up a half case of the '90 village Chambolle at the domaine on a tasting trip. It was that trip (and wine) that got me hooked on Chambolle. I recently had his '98 Moose, which is nowhere near ready, but shows in the nose and the finish that he made a great wine in a difficult vintage. Your note on a 2000 reminds me how good he can be in less than heralded vintages. I've just come across some of his '01 village Chmabolle at a reasonable price (for Tokyo at least). Any experience with any of his '01s? Same source also has Bruno Clair's '02 lieu-dit Les Veroilles at a not too painful price. I really like his (very expensive) Savigny and his Marsannays, but have no experience with this Chambolle. Any experience? Thanks for letting me tap your brain. Jim |
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Dale Williams wrote: > > Main course was roasted capon with a cognac-mushroom sauce, accompanied by > sauteed potatoes as well as red cabbage. We enjoyed some 3 day old Brunello, as > well as the 2000 JF Mugnier Chambolle-Musigny. This isn't one of the light thin > 2000s, there's good concentration in the bright red fruit, and a nice earthy > note. Deep raspberry fruit, just a hint of vanilla/oak, long mineral finish. > Drinking well now, but no hurry. A- Thanks for the notes. I always look forward to reading them because they're entertaining and, at least from reading them, my palate seems to be pretty much in tune with yours. Chambolle is one of my favorite appellations and I like Mugnier's delightfully transparent style. I've heard good things about but haven't tried the Ann Gros village Chambolle, but I can't think of anyone else who approaches Mugnier for the price. If they're out there, someone please let me know! Years ago, I picked up a half case of the '90 village Chambolle at the domaine on a tasting trip. It was that trip (and wine) that got me hooked on Chambolle. I recently had his '98 Moose, which is nowhere near ready, but shows in the nose and the finish that he made a great wine in a difficult vintage. Your note on a 2000 reminds me how good he can be in less than heralded vintages. I've just come across some of his '01 village Chmabolle at a reasonable price (for Tokyo at least). Any experience with any of his '01s? Same source also has Bruno Clair's '02 lieu-dit Les Veroilles at a not too painful price. I really like his (very expensive) Savigny and his Marsannays, but have no experience with this Chambolle. Any experience? Thanks for letting me tap your brain. Jim |
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DaleW wrote:
> Jim, > > well, the one village Chambolle I'd put consistently (slightly) ahead > of Mugnier is Roumier. I own the '01 Mugnier, and feel good about doing > so, though it came in dead last in the "It Takes a Village" 2001 > Chambolle-Musigny horizontal we did in 2004- I think it was just at a > rough spot. At that tasting, Roumier swept the gold, though the big > surprise of the night was the Drouhin coming in second. > > I can't afford the Moose, though I did recently get a couple of > Mugnier's '98 Bonne Mares at a good price. > > best, > Dale Thanks Dale. Here in Tokyo, I don't see the Roumier village. Based on the cost of his Moose and Bonnes Mares, I had always assumed the village would be stratospheric. Just looked on winesearcher and it looks to be no more than about 10% above the Mugnier. I'll have to try even harder to find it here. For what it's worth, I can't really afford the Moose either. The one I had recently was my cousin's bottle. I'll probably pull the trigger on the Mugnier and Clair wines mentioned above. However, if anyone has experience with the Clair, I'd love to hear it. Jim |
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DaleW wrote:
> Jim, > > well, the one village Chambolle I'd put consistently (slightly) ahead > of Mugnier is Roumier. I own the '01 Mugnier, and feel good about doing > so, though it came in dead last in the "It Takes a Village" 2001 > Chambolle-Musigny horizontal we did in 2004- I think it was just at a > rough spot. At that tasting, Roumier swept the gold, though the big > surprise of the night was the Drouhin coming in second. > > I can't afford the Moose, though I did recently get a couple of > Mugnier's '98 Bonne Mares at a good price. > > best, > Dale Thanks Dale. Here in Tokyo, I don't see the Roumier village. Based on the cost of his Moose and Bonnes Mares, I had always assumed the village would be stratospheric. Just looked on winesearcher and it looks to be no more than about 10% above the Mugnier. I'll have to try even harder to find it here. For what it's worth, I can't really afford the Moose either. The one I had recently was my cousin's bottle. I'll probably pull the trigger on the Mugnier and Clair wines mentioned above. However, if anyone has experience with the Clair, I'd love to hear it. Jim |
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