TN: Dinner Last Week (Boillot, Morot, Moulin Touchais)
 

Had dinner at a great French restaurant in Tokyo last week. Restaurant
Le Bourguignon served good food, slightly Japan-influenced by way of
local ingredients, but always well balanced, well executed, and true to
a French ethos. The wine list is a great source of values (at least in
a Tokyo context).

**2002 J.M. Boillot Rully La Pucelle 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, C=F4te
Chalonnaise, Rully

With two courses:

Carrot mousse with uni and beef consomme gelee
Pan fried terrine of unagi and foie gras

Bright gold with perhaps the tiniest hint of green, crystal clear. Nose
of very light bit of oak, piercing apple fruit, developing into bit of
fig and mineral. Palate of well-cut acidity, surprisingly round
richness that continued onto finish. This developed in the glass and
persisted on the finish well beyond what its appellation would suggest.
Definitely a buy for drinking at home over the next few years if I see
it on a shelf here in Tokyo.


**1986 Albert Morot Beaune Teurons 1er Cru - France, Burgundy, C=F4te de
Beaune, Beaune

With two courses:

Pan-seared medai with matsutake sauce
Breast of duck with slow cooked root vegetables

Faded to light cherry color. Color was indicative of the fruit that
remained on nose and palate -- all cherry. What fruit was there was
good and even a little sweet with maturity, but was light for the
remaining structure. First blush of nose and palate suggested sweet
tea. I'm having a hard time figuring out what I thought. Surprising
level of mature sweetness for the vintage, but somehow it still didn't
keep up with the acidity and residual tannin. Definitely better on the
nose than palate. With time in glass developed a good aray of secondary
aromas...winter leaves, a little tar, some warm spice. Perfectly
enjoyable -- rather drink this than most new world pinot -- but not a
good match. Structure outweighed fruit for the fish and clashed a
little. Matched better with duck, but was a little dwarfed.


**1976 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou,
Coteaux du Layon

With a variety of cheeses.

Deep, deep honeyed gold in glass, with a richness and viscosity you
could just see as you moved the glass -- really appetizing appearance.
Nose of orange peel, freshly crushed peaches, wild honey, and chestnut
puree. Developed stony, mineral elements as it opened up. Good balance
of crisp appley acid with honeyed sweetness let the nectarine and
pomelo fruit come through. As it moved back in the mouth, creaminess
took over, but without losing crispness. Finish was a bit shorter than
I would have hoped, but this was still a fun wine to drink and a great
value.

Jim

**1976 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon - France, Loire Valley, Anjou,
Coteaux du Layon

Jim, thanks for the tasting note. I have the 1976, 1959, and 1949. Even
some of this wine from the 1920s is reported to still be very good. It
can age extremely slowly in some of the best years. At one time it was
one of he best quality wine values of the Loire, but fame has now
resulted in increased prices. It is remarkable how many good years this
wine has had. I think a top Vouvray such as Huet's Cuvee Constance 1989
can top the Moulin considerably, but there are very few years that
produce such good sweet Vouvrays.

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