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TN: Magdelaine and Belair-Monange
With the demise of Ch. Magdelaine and its incorporation into Belair-Monange, Tom and John set up a tasting. Originally set for Dec, we finally convened last night. Tom had sent a case of the younger Magdelaines and some Belair-Monange, the rest of us brought some mature wines for comparison. John hosted, and had a nice spread of cheese and pate/mousse out for us.
As we gathered 2012 Philipponnat Blanc de Noirs Extra Brut- crisp, delicious and long, I really enjoyed, but didnt know BdN till later. B+/A-. There was also a Ployez-Jacquemart I didnt try. On to the reds 2014 Ch.Belair-Monange Very ripe, a bit kirschy., some nice spice but hot. B-/C+ 2013 Ch.Belair-Monange Raspberry, more structured, some sandalwood and tea. Still pretty ripe. B- 2012 Ch.Belair-Monange Raspberry, low acid, soft tannins. Vanilla. B- 2011 Ch. Magdelaine (last vintage) Berries, floral, not so long but I like better than preceding wines. B 2010 Ch. Magdelaine Big, but balanced, spice, needs time. B+ 2009 Ch. Magdelaine Lots of alcohol., ripe red fruit, menthol/mint, not so attractive now but Ill hope for improvement (I had 3 mags!). B- for now (some who tasted later said major improvement) 2008 Ch.Belair-Monange Black plum, vanilla, good acids, structured. B 2008 Ch. Magdelaine Fresh, bright, cherries and spice, I really enjoy (and happy to see I own), A-/B+ 2007 Ch. Magdelaine Red plums, barely any tannin, soft acids for Magdelaine, ready luncheon claret. B/B- 2006 Ch. Magdelaine A bit closed, with time black plums, smoke, spice/sandalwood. B 2001 Ch. Magdelaine Bright, lean without being austere, red cherry, delicious. B+/A- 1998 Ch. Magdelaine Young, needs time, a bit animal, I really enjoy but dont have, will keep eye open. A- A break while John worked in kitchen 2013 Trimbach Clos Ste. Hune (mag) Ginger, pear, smoke, sweet fruit though dry wine. Feels like it should age well, but quite enjoyable now. A-/B+ Beef stew with Brussels sprouts and orange zest 1994 Ch. Magdelaine Some tannin, acid doesnt seem totally integrated, a touch clipped, but nice in an austere/herby way. B/B- 1992 Ch. Magdelaine This tasted like a nice stemmy Burg (others thought Cab Franc). Red cherry, a little coffee, herbs. Quite an achievement for the vintage. B 1990 Ch. Magdelaine Off bottle NR 1990 Ch.Belair (Dubois-Challon) Tannic, herby, some good black plum fruit. This must have been heavily filtered as zero sediment. Some liked less than I (and others more). B/B+ 1985 Ch. Magdelaine Perfumed, perfect balance, beautiful elegant and classic. A/A- 1975 Ch. Magdelaine Ferric, black cherry, earth, A- 1970 Ch. Magdelaine Corked! Luckily Tom had some there he had purchased from a mutual friend. Great replacement bottle- red and black cherries, smoke., citrus zest. Long and balanced. A-/A Blind wine from Jayson Victor got vintage quickly, took us a bit to get wine. Wild menthol meets garrigue nose, cocoa powder, black raspberries. Lovely. 1971 Ch. Figeac A- 2001 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Beerenauslese This was fine but I really couldnt concentrate (packing up glasses to go)- a bit of a waste after all of these wines. A bit softer acids than I expected from year, but really I missed taking notes here. Really fun night with really generous and fun group. Some varied opinions,but pretty sure no one thought the Belair-Monange were a step up from Magdelaine. Still, will be interested to see how those wines age. But will always lament the loss of Magdalaine. Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. |
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