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TN: Mark hosts SOBER, with '29-'88 DDC, Fiorano, Kalin, Gosset, '71Climens, etc
Mark hosted SOBER last night, I picked up Franco and Paul at Tarrytown station, and we arrived at Marks and were greeted with smoked salmon on pumpernickel and 2 blind bubbles (not very blind, Mark said what they were, just not which was which
2002 Gosset Celebris I thought this was the Blanc de Blanc, white fruit and lots of lemon, very long. A- NV Gosset Grande Blanc de Blanc Very good, rounder, full and nutty. B+ To table, where some nice cheeses (a cheddar, a Comte, Cambozola, a Merlot washed rind) and salami awaited. 3 non-blind whites awaited (a 4th, a "95 LEcole #41 Semillon, was deemed undrinkable) 1992 Kalin Semillon (Livermore) Good acids, lemon, wool, and nuts, long and complex. B+/A- 1993 Fiorano (pretty sure this is the Semillon, http://www.italianwinemerchants.com/Fiorano-s/177.htm ) Flatter than the 86 , some fruti but more piney B- 1986 Fiorano Dark color but totally fresh/alive, citrus and floral, good length. B+ First blind red No guesses, pretty advanced, apparently cork fell in that AM when capsule cut. Too bad, the 1964 Palmer Second blind red (Pi decanter) Mark said I couldnt guess as I had unfair advantage, realized it was a Bandol from a charity lunch(but no clue to which one). Brawny, sweet but with some grip, gets better. 1993 La Rouviere Bandol. B+ On to the main event, non-blind DDC First flight 1988 Domaine de Chevalier Tannic, but good sappy fruit, needs time but quite elegant for an "88. I have a bottle of this, wish I had more . B+/A- 1983 Domaine de Chevalier Young, structured, lots of soil and some coffee, I liked more than neighbors (but everyone liked whole flight). A-/B+ 1981 Domaine de Chevalier Classic, ready, smoke and cigarbox, drinking very well. B+ (nice lamb stew on rice served about here) Second Flight 1979 Domaine de Chevalier Herbs, cedar/cigarbox, good acids, nice length B+/A- 1975 Domaine de Chevalier Still some tannin, but plusher than most "75s, with full fruit and a long earthy finish. A- 1970 Domaine de Chevalier Tart cherries, floral, touch of VA but not overwhelming. I originally had this as a B, but it picked up and filled out with some air. One of the redder fruited wines of the night. B+ Third Flight 1966 Domaine de Chevalier Big almost kirschy fruit, yet with good acids, cedar and citrus. B+ 1964 Domaine de Chevalier Wow, complex and spicy, red fruit with mushrooms and mocha, tobacco, long. Just a lovely classic claret, and I was sure it would be my WOTN. A-/A 1961 Domaine de Chevalier Sweet fruit, tar, a little caramelly. Certainly drinkable but a step behind others, Craig says a mid-shoulder bottle (not really a bad fill for 50+, just adds a little uncertainty). Dan says it got better but I didnt return. B Fourth Flight 1953 Domaine de Chevalier Well, I thought the "64 was my WOTN till I tasted this. Exotic, complete, and complex. Sandalwood and tobacco, clean fruit, long and lively. I told neighbor it was amazing something could be this exotic yet at same time be classic. I originally wrote A/A- but I really cant imagine this could be better, so A. 1929 Domaine de Chevalier This had a funky and somewhat caramelly/ maderized nose, and I assumed dead.. Had come from the Doris Duke cellars and owner said previous bottles were good, but at 90 years theres never certainty. But Dan held out for it and Ill be damned if he wasnt right. The madeira notes lessened (though didnt disappear) and there was nice plummy (not pruney ) fruit, with leather and smoke. This was brought up during evening and only had a couple hours before decant, so was pretty murky. I never loved but though B/B+ at end, a nice wine to experience. Mark also brought out a "43 cognac (which I skipped), and a legendary Sauternes: 1971 Climens Great acids, sweetness now well integrated, orange peel and orange marmalade over toffee, incredibly long. A- Truly over the top good night, even by SOBER standards. Only thing that would have made it better was if I hadnt needed to be spitting. Entered the night a DDC fan, but still got my eyes opened. What a wonderful, distinctive, elegant property (at least back in the day) Thanks Mark. Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C drinkable. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice.Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. |
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