To celebrate my 40th birthday recently I had dinner with some friends
in what turned out to be a very festive affair. A vertical of Chateau
Musar had always been on the cards and notes were taken. The other
wines were there to be drunk which is why the notes are less full.

White:

Moondah Brook, 1994 Verdelho, Western Australia

One of the revelations of the day. A hugely experimental bottle tried
out on some of the early arrivals in the expectation that it would
have been cellared to death. Instead a remarkably fresh pleasant wine,
obviously showing its age to those who knew how whites age, but
eminently drinkable with fading honeyed melons and refreshing acidity.


Blason de Bourgogne, 2001 AC Montagny Vielles Vignes, (Tesco)

Pleasant, not memorable


Laithwaites, 2003 AC Bordeaux Sauvignon Blanc

Considered by the person bringing it to be up there with things such
as Villa Maria, it went well with the starter (Grilled Asparagus and
Steamed Purple Sprouting Broccoli with either melted garlic butter or
anchovy-garlic-chili dressing). A typical Sauvignon Blanc certainly as
good as the base level Villa Maria but maybe not up there with the
black label versions.



Red:

Chateau Musar Vertical 1988 (Magnum), 1991 (Bottle) and 1994 (Bottle)

All three were virtually identical in terms of the nose -warm, spicy,
with cumquats (88 especially) and a whiff of printers ink (91
especially). All typically Musar and would have been instantly
identifiable to the assembled company had the tasting been blind.

The 88 had a 5mm clear edge in the glass then light brown slowly
deepening to burgundy.

Though fully mature it was almost spritzy (not fizzy in any way, just
lively on the tongue) with a bit of Lovehearts (disputed) and soft
toasted marshmallow. Long, just sort of fading on the palate.

The 91 was in a different class from the 88. A similar nose but
inkier. Less faded in the glass though not much between them in
colour.

A very similar taste with a sweeter front than the 88 but a hotter,
shorter and harder version. Generally considered to be past it
compared with the 88. On coming back to it later there was
disagreement on whether it had improved on longer exposure to the air
15% of those there reckoning that it had.

The 94 was very close to the 88 in terms of the nose and looked
obviously a younger wine with much less of a brown edge. It was the
lightest of the three and quite tight, short and a bit acidic whilst
at the same time being a bit jammy.

Of the three the 88 was considered to be mature and holding (though of
course it was a magnum) the 91 mature and just past it, the 94 still a
little young. That confirmed other experiences with the 91 which was
drinking well enough 12-18 months ago but was fading earlier this
year.

All went well with the main course (a 3-rib roast of 100% Grass-Fed
Aberdeen Angus with all the trimmings).

Other reds:

Louis Boillot et Fils, 2001 AC Gevrey Chambertin

Pleasant Gevrey, touch young but drinking pleasantly

Mitchelton, 1996 Print Label Shiraz, Victoria

Like opening a bottle of cassis on the nose though that faded quite
rapidly. V big and V Australian Shiraz though better balanced, subtler
and more interesting than some of the usual fruit-bombs. Drinking well
with years in it yet.

St Hallet, 1996 Blackwell Shiraz, Barossa

As expected, clearly inferior to the Print. Pleasant, rather
understated but much thinner and lighter.



Fortified Wines:

Gonzalez Byass, "Noe" PX Muy Viejo 30yo (Half)

Amazing - Christmas Pudding soaked in Lyles Black Treacle. Immensely
intense with enormous depth of flavour and tremendous length. You
could imagine your teeth rotting as you drank. Several people used it
as a sauce on the sweet (Toffee Pecan Pie)

Grahams 20yo Tawny Port

Old reliable - no notes taken.


Not Drunk:

Edradour 1989 Cask Strength (Bottled 2003)
Strathisla 1964 (Bottled 2004)

We didn't feel that our palates were up to the subtlties of these
whiskies (both presents) so switched to plain Laphroaig 10 yo.




James Dempster (remove nospam to reply by email)

You know you've had a good night
when you wake up
and someone's outlining you in chalk.