Jean has come down in favor of lighter-bodied, less structured,
red-fruited Gamay-based wines, so many of the better Cru Beaujolais stay
in the cellar for the nonce. Meanwhile, we still love our Gamay chez
nous, so, with a dinner of grilled lamb, I opened:

2011 Alain Coudert (Clos de la Roilette) Cuvée Christal
nose: cranberries, minerals
palate: light, vivid acidity

Although Clos de la Roilette is one of the most ageworthy Cru Beaujolais
that I know of, M. Coudert makes this cuvée from a parcel of vines
located in the center of Fleurie AOC (the majority of his vines are in a
section of Fleurie that abuts Moulin-a-Vent and shares its
manganese-rich clay soil) and intends it for near-term drinking. This
wine succeeds brilliantly in that regard and hits Jean's sweet spot.

Mark Lipton