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Dale Williams
 
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Default TN: Saturday dinner- Kistler, Aubert, Kracher, ZH, Donnhoff, Muga

Sometime last year Betsy took her bows to the bowmaker she's been using for 20+
years to have them rehaired. Somehow wine came up, and she discovered that he
was into wine. She told him of my geekiness, and we've shared a glass or two
since, always talking of a dinner. Well last night it happened, we went to his
house for an absolutely fabulous meal.

The starter was grilled bread with a choice of spreads- a nice tapenade, and an
out-of-ths-world cheese dish- Asiago and Parmesan with garlic, shallots, herbs,
and olive oil, marinated overnight. The first wine he poured was the 2001
Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese. A bit shy at first, but then layers of
mineral and citrus/white fruit, with a hint of bing cherry. Earthy and
enticing, nice acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness. Nothing closed down
re this 2001. A-

Next up was the 2001 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling Gueberschwihr. Yung opined it
would have been better before the Dönnhoff, and I believe he was right. Still
showed ok. Flowers, tea, and earth over some apple/apricot fruit. Not a blowsy
Z-H, this is dry with plenty of acidity. B/B+

After sitting, we had the first course of a tasty white-bean soup. Then the
first red started around the table, the 1995 Muga Prado Enea Rioja Gran
Riserva. I always like this wine. Balanced and even, leather and cedar over a
deep body of red berry fruit. Nice acidic balance, modest tannins. Could use
time, but awful nice now. A-

An onion tart graced my plate for a second, then I gobbled it and went for more
Rioja. Next course was polenta with shrimp and chorizo, and Yung suggested we
move back to a white, the 2002 Aubert Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma
Valley). Big CalChard, but the wood, while quite evident, is balanced by a lot
of pear and honeydew fruit. Good acidity for a California chardonnay, long
finish with a butterscotch and spice note. B++

After a salad, we moved into the kitchen as Yung prepared the risotto (with
smoked duck breast and black truffles). We headed back to the table, where the
1999 Kistler "Kistler Vineyard" Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley) awaited. Big
ripe Pinot, lots of oak and spice. Ok, not my preferred style, but actually did
quite well with the intense flavors of the risotto. Vanilla, cherry pie, and
spice. I'd probably give this a B normally, but it merits a B+ for the match
with the risotto.

Others enjoyed a pastry for dessert, while I concentrated on a dessert wine-
the
1999 Alois Kracher #2 Nouvelle Vague Traminer Trockenbeeren Auslese.
Flowers and spices (cumin and cinnamon), peach fruit with a distinct botrytis
character. One of the best Krachers I've tried, long deep finish, thick without
being cloying.A-/B+

A very good night- great food, interesting wines, nice company. Fun
conversations about teenagers, music, wine, and China (we were the only ones
that weren't ethnic Chinese). My favorite conversation compared a bowmaker to a
pastry chef (the same need for precision, as compared to a luthier or savory
chef).

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a
good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where
it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy,
and certainly not of consistency. *
Dale

Dale Williams
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Anders Tørneskog
 
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"Dale Williams" > skrev i melding
...
> Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese. A bit shy at first, but then layers
> of
> mineral and citrus/white fruit, with a hint of bing cherry. Earthy and
> enticing, nice acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness. Nothing closed
> down
> re this 2001. A-

Another Dönnhoff!? 92 points for this one, drink 2005-2020...
Anders


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Anders Tørneskog
 
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Default


"Dale Williams" > skrev i melding
...
> Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Spätlese. A bit shy at first, but then layers
> of
> mineral and citrus/white fruit, with a hint of bing cherry. Earthy and
> enticing, nice acidity perfectly balancing the sweetness. Nothing closed
> down
> re this 2001. A-

Another Dönnhoff!? 92 points for this one, drink 2005-2020...
Anders


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Dale Williams
 
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Default

>Another Dönnhoff!?

Although this wasn't my bottle, Dönnhoff is indeed a favorite of mine. Does
very well, even in "off" vintages. The main problem for me is that a couple
years ago it seems the Dönnhoff wines were discovered by Rovani, so since the
2001 vintage they've been (a) harder to find & (b) more expensive.
Dale

Dale Williams
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