Hi all,

Back from a very short week in the southern Rhone valley. Not at all a
wine-oriented trip, but a few comments to report. We stayed local to
our Baronnies/Ouveze base, so really any wine was from the Puymeras
area. There was a fete in Mollans with quite a few of the locals giving
tastings (and lots of swilling going on).

Mainly left with an impression that this area is moving heavily into
organic farming or "agriculture raisonnee" at the very least; only a few
of the old school bulk folks seemed to be doing the full treatment. Use
of sulfites also seems down.

Here are the ones that impressed.

We did a large tasting at Dom du Faucon Dore and had the chance to spend
time with Damien Beaumont who is the heir apparent and I think driving
force behind the philosophy. These guys are pretty crazy, with yields
below 20 hl/ha and sometimes approaching 10, all manual methods, some
very long barrel times (IIRC the longest is 38 months sur lie) but the
wines are very pure and clean, many monocepage cuvees. The alcohol
level is very high but the wines are never hot or jammy, or over
concentrated. The domaine has completed the transition to biodynamic
and been Demeter certified, not because of any anthroposophist bent but
in a further search for quality. Sulfite levels are between 15-60
depending on the cuvee. No bad wines and some very good indeed, in
particular the Authentique Grenache, 100 yr old vines with 12 hl yields,
18 months in old oak has made fine progress with a few tweaks in the
cellar. They are making a couple of wines called "200%" which have 18
months in new oak followed by 18 more in old barrels. These have gotten
relatively pricey and are not frankly to my taste, but I fear may get
them "discovered" as they are very much styled to please the new world
palate, and Damien has a mind towards marketing (unlike his parents). I
wish them all the luck, but they will need to get quantities up to make
any money. Still, the world needs dreamers!

Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. Her wines are made with no
sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
(doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
as you can get. The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
fully exposed. I've never heard of this technique, does anyone else do
it? In spite of this the wines are very clean with no sign of
oxidization. Someone to watch.

Good organic work happening at Les Usseaux, 2 very clean and well
structured CdRs (2009), we even bought a few bottles.

Domaine des Arches, an organic farm stand (farm really) we have
frequented for vegetables for years, won a silver medal for their CdR at
Orange (pretty good medal). It had good ripe grenache fruit with very
feminine structure, an excellent summer quaff. No idea if it gets sent
anywhere but worth a stop if you're in the area and like that style, on
the road between Mirabel and Nyons. (Great fruit and veg, too).

An excellent very peppery CdR from Alain Sorbier at Domaine de la
Tuyere, raised in 3 yr old oak. Sadly his traditional CdR was sold out,
but we were delighted to learn he delivers to Paris twice a year, and
will certainly be ordering that way. The "fut de chene" was a steal at
5.20 EU.

A fine tasting from Mme Sauvan of Domaine de Combebelle with a good
range of well built CdRs. They do the Caves Particuliers wine show in
the spring, so planning on talking with them again there.

Also tasted the range from Mas des Collines, a tasty if unremarkable
Gigondas, classic grenache profile. Didn't care much for the Vacqueyras.

cheers,

-E

On Jul 26, 10:22*am, Emery Davis > wrote:

>
> Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
> Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. *Her wines are made with no
> sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
> (doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
> as you can get. *The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
> fully exposed....

That is remarkable. Forgive my skepticism, but did you actually see
wine aging in open barrels? The danger is not mere oxidation, but, I
believe, certain development of volatile acidity -- ethyl acetate,
which gives the wine an unpleasant chemical solvent odor, and acetic
acid, (vinegar).

Andy

On 07/27/2011 08:07 AM, AyTee wrote:
> On Jul 26, 10:22 am, Emery Davis > wrote:
>
>>
>> Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
>> Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. Her wines are made with no
>> sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
>> (doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
>> as you can get. The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
>> fully exposed....
>
> That is remarkable. Forgive my skepticism, but did you actually see
> wine aging in open barrels? The danger is not mere oxidation, but, I
> believe, certain development of volatile acidity -- ethyl acetate,
> which gives the wine an unpleasant chemical solvent odor, and acetic
> acid, (vinegar).
>

She had a photo album and there was a picture of her with a colleague.
I can't remember whether they actually had their hands in the barrel or
not, but there were several barrels stood on end, open.

The wine was certainly clean.

Her response to my "Wow, I never heard of that" was "I'm not surprised."
Her oenology degree is from Switzerland, I wonder if this is a
traditional Swiss technique or something.

Bizarre to me, too.

-E

Forgot to mention 2.

Domaine La Roche Buissiere, another organic producer who also has a wine
bar in Faucon. Haven't been but the parking lot is usually full. 3
well made CdRs with honest fruit but quite expensive relatively.

Domaine Puy de Maupas, got a coup de coeur from Guide Hachette for the
top cuvee, which I didn't like that much, but the basic CdR was a well
made summer quaff at a very good price. Also a good rose.

-E

On 07/26/2011 07:22 PM, Emery Davis wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Back from a very short week in the southern Rhone valley. Not at all a
> wine-oriented trip, but a few comments to report. We stayed local to
> our Baronnies/Ouveze base, so really any wine was from the Puymeras
> area. There was a fete in Mollans with quite a few of the locals giving
> tastings (and lots of swilling going on).
>
> Mainly left with an impression that this area is moving heavily into
> organic farming or "agriculture raisonnee" at the very least; only a few
> of the old school bulk folks seemed to be doing the full treatment. Use
> of sulfites also seems down.
>
> Here are the ones that impressed.
>
> We did a large tasting at Dom du Faucon Dore and had the chance to spend
> time with Damien Beaumont who is the heir apparent and I think driving
> force behind the philosophy. These guys are pretty crazy, with yields
> below 20 hl/ha and sometimes approaching 10, all manual methods, some
> very long barrel times (IIRC the longest is 38 months sur lie) but the
> wines are very pure and clean, many monocepage cuvees. The alcohol
> level is very high but the wines are never hot or jammy, or over
> concentrated. The domaine has completed the transition to biodynamic
> and been Demeter certified, not because of any anthroposophist bent but
> in a further search for quality. Sulfite levels are between 15-60
> depending on the cuvee. No bad wines and some very good indeed, in
> particular the Authentique Grenache, 100 yr old vines with 12 hl yields,
> 18 months in old oak has made fine progress with a few tweaks in the
> cellar. They are making a couple of wines called "200%" which have 18
> months in new oak followed by 18 more in old barrels. These have gotten
> relatively pricey and are not frankly to my taste, but I fear may get
> them "discovered" as they are very much styled to please the new world
> palate, and Damien has a mind towards marketing (unlike his parents). I
> wish them all the luck, but they will need to get quantities up to make
> any money. Still, the world needs dreamers!
>
> Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
> Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. Her wines are made with no
> sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
> (doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
> as you can get. The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
> fully exposed. I've never heard of this technique, does anyone else do
> it? In spite of this the wines are very clean with no sign of
> oxidization. Someone to watch.
>
> Good organic work happening at Les Usseaux, 2 very clean and well
> structured CdRs (2009), we even bought a few bottles.
>
> Domaine des Arches, an organic farm stand (farm really) we have
> frequented for vegetables for years, won a silver medal for their CdR at
> Orange (pretty good medal). It had good ripe grenache fruit with very
> feminine structure, an excellent summer quaff. No idea if it gets sent
> anywhere but worth a stop if you're in the area and like that style, on
> the road between Mirabel and Nyons. (Great fruit and veg, too).
>
> An excellent very peppery CdR from Alain Sorbier at Domaine de la
> Tuyere, raised in 3 yr old oak. Sadly his traditional CdR was sold out,
> but we were delighted to learn he delivers to Paris twice a year, and
> will certainly be ordering that way. The "fut de chene" was a steal at
> 5.20 EU.
>
> A fine tasting from Mme Sauvan of Domaine de Combebelle with a good
> range of well built CdRs. They do the Caves Particuliers wine show in
> the spring, so planning on talking with them again there.
>
> Also tasted the range from Mas des Collines, a tasty if unremarkable
> Gigondas, classic grenache profile. Didn't care much for the Vacqueyras.
>
> cheers,
>
> -E

On Tue, 26 Jul 2011 19:22:30 +0200, Emery Davis
> wrote:

>Hi all,
>
>Back from a very short week in the southern Rhone valley. Not at all a
>wine-oriented trip, but a few comments to report. We stayed local to
>our Baronnies/Ouveze base, so really any wine was from the Puymeras
>area. There was a fete in Mollans with quite a few of the locals giving
>tastings (and lots of swilling going on).
>

Can't make it to France this year, so thank you for the quick trip!

So Mike, have you ever heard of this open barrel dodge? Pretty darn
slow, really. BTW there were a number of folks actively associating
with the slow food movement in the area, it is an interesting evolution.

-E

On 07/27/2011 11:16 PM, Mike Tommasi wrote:
> Seems to me the cap plus the accumulated CO2 on top would protect the
> must from oxidation.

Well I guess it worked in the sense that the wine was in no way oxidized
or madierized.

> Anyhow what is interesting is seeing people using far out techniques to
> make wine that is not marked by major defects (oops, not supposed to use
> that word...) and actually tastes good.

Agreed some of these guys are really pushing the art.

-E

On 7/28/2011 8:42 AM, Emery Davis wrote:
> On 07/27/2011 11:16 PM, Mike Tommasi wrote:
>> Seems to me the cap plus the accumulated CO2 on top would protect the
>> must from oxidation.
>
> Well I guess it worked in the sense that the wine was in no way oxidized
> or madierized.
>
>> Anyhow what is interesting is seeing people using far out techniques to
>> make wine that is not marked by major defects (oops, not supposed to use
>> that word...) and actually tastes good.
>
> Agreed some of these guys are really pushing the art.
>

What is supposed to be better about "open barrel"? Or perhaps, I should
ask what is different in the taste?

--


James Silverton, Potomac

I'm *not*

On 07/28/2011 06:39 PM, James Silverton wrote:
> What is supposed to be better about "open barrel"? Or perhaps, I should
> ask what is different in the taste?

Dunno, I gathered it was about old techniques. Or maybe just exploring
the possible. The wine was not a run of the mill CdR but that probably
had more to do with 37 months sur lie than anything else.

On Jul 27, 2:16*pm, Mike Tommasi > wrote:
> On 27/07/2011 21:18, Emery Davis wrote:
>
>
>
> > So Mike, have you ever heard of this open barrel dodge? *Pretty darn
> > slow, really. * BTW there were a number of folks actively associating
> > with the slow food movement in the area, it is an interesting evolution..
>
> Seems to me the cap plus the accumulated CO2 on top would protect the
> must from oxidation. *Don't know any of the domaines cited...
> Anyhow what is interesting is seeing people using far out techniques to
> make wine that is not marked by major defects (oops, not supposed to use
> that word...) and actually tastes good.
>
> cheers
>
> Mike

Fermentation in an open container is neither new nor unusual. However,
once fermentation is complete -- within a few weeks, usually -- there
is no production of CO2 to protect the wine from oxidation or
microbial spoilage. The statement that arouses my skepticism is "The
[wine] spends 37 months in open topped barrels, fully exposed." It is
the long-term aging of wine in open containers that is questionable.
Sorry, but I think Emery Davis must have misunderstood what was
happening in the Clos des Cimes cellar. There are videos on their
website <http://closdescimes.fr/> showing Elodie Aubert and Raphael
Gonzalez (I presume) punching the must in open barrels by hand; but it
is clearly must -- unfermented or fermenting red grapes -- and not
aging wine.

Andy

On 07/30/2011 03:30 AM, AyTee wrote:
> Sorry, but I think Emery Davis must have misunderstood what was
> happening in the Clos des Cimes cellar. There are videos on their

Well if so that won't be a first... And of course the explanation
was made during the heat of a very chaotic tasting, with interruptions
to fill other glasses, etc.

I have her email, I'll ask the question and report back.

-E

On Jul 28, 5:42*am, Emery Davis > wrote:

>
> Well I guess it worked in the sense that the wine was in no way oxidized
> or madierized.
>

(Sorry if this is a duplicate post. It didn't show up on google when I
posted yesterday.)
Fermentation in open containers is not new or unusual, although the
use of open-topped barriques is somewhat of a trend lately. It is the
"37 months in open topped barrels" part that makes me think you may
have misunderstood what was happening in the Clos des Cimes cellar.
Fermentation is usually complete in a matter of weeks, after which no
CO2 is produced to provide protection from oxidation or microbial
spoilage. A video on the CdC website <http://start1g.ovh.net/~closdesc/
blog/?p=62> shows Elodie Aubert (I presume) punching down the must --
fermenting fruit -- but it is clearly not yet wine.

Andy

On Jul 27, 12:20*am, Emery Davis > wrote:
> On 07/27/2011 08:07 AM, AyTee wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Jul 26, 10:22 am, Emery Davis > wrote:
>
> >> Another dreamer we met briefly was Elodie Aubert, the young owner of
> >> Clos des Cimes in Merindol les Oliviers. *Her wines are made with no
> >> sulfites added at all (to reds)... and although she has no certification
> >> (doesn't believe in labels, etc) this is as close to fully organic wine
> >> as you can get. *The flagship spends 37 months in open topped barrels,
> >> fully exposed....
>
> > That is remarkable. Forgive my skepticism, but did you actually see
> > wine aging in open barrels? The danger is not mere oxidation, but, I
> > believe, certain development of volatile acidity -- ethyl acetate,
> > which gives the wine an unpleasant chemical solvent odor, and acetic
> > acid, (vinegar).
>
> She had a photo album and there was a picture of her with a colleague.
> I can't remember whether they actually had their hands in the barrel or
> not, but there were several barrels stood on end, open.
>
> The wine was certainly clean.
>
> Her response to my "Wow, I never heard of that" was "I'm not surprised."
> *Her oenology degree is from Switzerland, I wonder if this is a
> traditional Swiss technique or something.
>
> Bizarre to me, too.
>
> -E

Fermentation in open containers is not new or unusual. The issue is
"37 months in open topped barrels, fully exposed." Once fermentation
is complete -- a matter of weeks usually, not years -- no CO2 is
produced to protect the wine from oxidation or microbial spoilage. Are
you sure you didn't misunderstand what is happening in the Clos des
Cimes cellar? There is a video on their website <http://
start1g.ovh.net/~closdesc/blog/?p=62> that shows Elodie Aubert (I
presume) punching must by hand in an open barrel. But it is clearly
must -- fermenting grapes -- not wine.

Andy

Open fermentation containers are not new or unusual, however "... 37 months in open topped barrels, fully exposed" is difficult to comprehend. Fermentation is usually complete in a matter of weeks, after which no CO2 is produced and the wine is vulnerable to oxidation and microbial spoilage if not protected. The film on the Clos des Cimes <http://start1g.ovh.net/~closdesc/blog/?p=62> shows Edode Auber (I presume) punching down must in an open barrel, but it is clearly must -- fermenting grapes -- not aging wine. Emery, I think you may have misunderstood what is happening in the Clos des Cimes cellar.

Andy

On Jul 30, 3:29*am, Emery Davis > wrote:

> I have her email, I'll ask the question and report back.
>
> -E

Yes, please do. I'd like to be corrected if I have it coming. Once
again, apologies for my multiple posts; I thought they were lost in
cyberspace.

Andy