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Rhone Notes
Notes from a Rhone tasting:
1993 Ch. de Beaucastel Vielles Vignes Roussanne – this wine is made in small amounts and brings a big price tag with it, but they seem to go on for years and years and get more and more interesting. An amber bronze colour, with a waxy honey nose that later opened to offer a pronounced fig component. Smooth on palate and excellent length, finishing smoky and quite dry. Love these wines. I served a spicy vegetable and sausage soup and the food seemed to complement the wine surprisingly well. 1988 Robert Michel Cornas La Geynale – I figured that few of these guys had ever tasted a really mature Cornas and that they might have a hard time guessing it. Some white pepper and anise in the nose and maybe a bit of leather, surprisingly smooth and even elegant, neither of which are descriptors normally associated with Cornas. Round in the mouth, with the raw tannins of youth fully resolved. My last bottle. I served up a mushroom melange with thyme, cream, bacon, onion and both cremini and chanterelles. That sort of food works so well with either Burgundy or Rhones. 1998 Ch. des Tours Grand Reserve Cotes du Rhone – nice raspberry nose, good colour, sweet entry, then decent fruit and soft tannins. Probably a little long in the tooth but stil very decent. 1998 Dom. La Roquette CNduP – this Brunier wine is fully mature but holding well. Mix of mushroom, berry and tar in the nose, fresh berry fruit on palate and elegant ready presentation. Clos de l’Oratoire CNduP – perplexing wine, for it gave very little on the nose and seemed tight on palate. A medium weight wine that was simply inexpressive at this point. 1999 Dom. du Pere Pape la Crau de Ma Mere CNduP – weightier wine with good fruit and herbs in the nose, still firm structure, decent fruit in the mouth, but I thought it finished a little dilute and dry, although with a nice return of sweetness at the end. A fairly simple wine. 2000 Yves Cuilleron St Joseph les Serines – I was glad to see that I wasn’t the only one that brought Northern Rhone, though that wasn’t immediately obvious form the nose on this wine, which was a waxy fruit nose with a hint of tar, that might have been found in a southern Rhone. Some tannin and lots of acidity, good levels of fruit, fairly big and concentrated, with some mint showing up with time in the glass. 1998 Ch. la Nerthe CNduP – this bottle came from a moist cellar and it looked like it had been shot with fine buckshot, the label all pockmarked and eroded. The owner opined as how it was just some sort of bug feeding on the labels. Eeww! Big sweet plumy fruit in the nose with just a hint of anise, and mixed herbs, sweet in the mouth with fair length and smooth finish. Nice wine. Guess the bugs thought so too. 1998 Vieux Donjon CNduP – lovely wine with slightly funky sweet nose, full body and sweet in the mouth also, with a medium long finish. Might be time to try and locate my case of this! Suitable wine to end with. 1983 Fonseca Port – a somewhat woody nose, only a little hot (others found more heat in it than I did) medium colour, medium sweet, definitely a bit hot on palate, reasonably rich in taste, smooth middle and a tad shorter tan I would have preferred. Decent but not in the usual class of this house in good vintages. |
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