Finally a reason to celebrate!

Dom de Serveaux, Champagne. This obscure small producer from Passy s/ Marne
is worth keeping an eye out for. Probably a modestly priced bottle, it showed
frank green apple, classic pinot characteristics, medium mousse, nice length
with a rich finish.

Since Bill Lee mentioned the orphan rack recently, I visited mine to fish out
the last bottle of '86 Cotes de Nuits Villages, Drouhin. A delight! Deep black
cherry nose, and a rich mouthful that only a mature burgundy (in my experience)
can provide. Holding up brilliantly, it finally showed its lack of pedigree in
a slightly diffuse finish. A "great" bottle? Of course not, but proof that much
pleasure can be had from a well made and properly aged wine of lesser aspiration.
(For US readers, this was originally purchased from Brooklines Liquors (MA) for US$14.
It has voyaged with me since, surely more than 15,000 miles; none the worse for
the wear!)

-E

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Emery Davis
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by removing the well known companies