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  #1 (permalink)   Report Post  
gerald
 
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Default Blood Sauce Blood

Lievre a la Royal is one of the most famous dishes utilizing Blood
Sauce.

Most Recipies call for cooking down a litre or so of red Rhone type
wine.

Strips of wild hare wrapped around foie gras with a blood sauce.
Available in France in game season.

In Paris, Le Cinq, Taillevent, l'Astor, among other majors. My
personal favorite is Au Presoir in the 12th.
  #2 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ian Hoare
 
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Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Salut/Hi gerald,

le/on Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:45:36 -0500, tu disais/you said:-

>Lievre a la Royal is one of the most famous dishes utilizing Blood
>Sauce.


And wonderful it is too. Patrick Ceaux, a young chef who recently took over
near us, had it on the menu on alternate weeks this autumn. After all the
years I've known about it, I was able to try it. Phenomenal, as you say,
though we had it with a youngish good Médoc (sorry, forgot which "chef's
choice").

>Most Recipies call for cooking down a litre or so of red Rhone type
>wine.


Err....

>Strips of wild hare wrapped around foie gras with a blood sauce.


Nope. Sorry. No foie gras, and it's not strips.

Have a look at one of the earliest written recipes as found in Elizabeth
David's "Mediterranean food"

LIEVRE A LA ROYALE

This famous recipe for lièvre a la royale was invented by
Senator Couteaux, who contributed regular articles to the Paris
newspaper Le Temps. On November 29, 1898, instead of his usual
political column, appeared this remarkable recipe. M. Couteaux
related at length how he had spent a week in Poitou hunting the
right kind of hare; how, the exactly suitable animal at last in his
hands, he instantly took the train to Paris, sent out his invitations,
and hurried off to consult his friend Spüller, who ran a well-known
restaurant in the Rue Favart, to arrange the preparation and cook-
ing of his hare for the following day. The dish takes from noon
until 7 o'clock to prepare and cook, and Senator Couteaux tells
how by 6 o'clock the exquisite aroma had penetrated the doors of
Spüller's restaurant, floated down the street and out into the boule-
vard, where the passers-by sniffed the scented air; an excitable
crowd gathered, and the whole quartier was "mis en imoi'. If you ever
feel like devoting the time (perhaps you need not afkr all spend a
week catching your hare) and the ingredients to cooking this dish
you will see that the senator was not exaggerating.
I have translated the recipe as faithfully as possible. It is very
lengthy and there are repetitions. But in those days there was plenty
of space to fill up; and from the senator's precise instructions one
can well imagine the delightful old gentleman bending over his
"daubière', and the pride with which he presented this beautiful
creation to his gourmet friends.

Ingredients

"You require a male hare, with red fur, killed if possible in
mountainous country; of fine French descent (characterized by the
light nervous elegance of head and limbs), weighing from s to 6
pounds, that is to say older than a leveret but still adolescent. The
important thing is that the hare should have been cleanly killed
and so not have lost a drop of blood.
"The fat to cook it: 2 or 3 tablespoons of goose fat, 1 lb of fat
bacon rashers; 1 lb of bacon in one piece.
Liquid: 6 oz of good red wine vinegar. Two bottles of Macon or
Médoc, whichever you please, but in any case not less than 2 years
old.
"Utensils: A daubière, or oblong stewing pan, of well-tinned
copper, 8 inches high, 12 inches long, 8 inches wide and possessed
of a hermetically closing cover; a small bowl in which to preserve
the blood of the hare, and later to stir it when it comes to incorporating
it in the sauce; a double-handled vegetable chopper; a large
shallow serving dish; a sieve; a small wooden pestle.

"The wine to serve: Preferably a St Julien or Moulin Ã* Vent.


"Preliminary Preparations

"Skin and clean the hare. Keep aside the heart, the liver, and the
lungs. Keep aside also and with great care the blood. (It is tradi-
tional to add 2 or 3 small glasses of fine old cognac to the blood; but
this is not indispensable; M. Couteaux finally decided against this
addition.)
1n the usual way prepare a medium-sized carrot, cut into four;
4 medium onions each stuck with a clove; 20 cloves of garlic; 40
cloves of shallot; a bouquet garni, composed of a bay leaf, a sprig of
thyme, and some pieces of parsley.
"Get ready some charcoal, in large pieces, which you will presently
be needing, burning fast.

"First Operation (from half~past twelve until four 0' clock) *

"At 12.30 coat the bottom and sides of the stewpan with the
goose fat; then at the bottom of the pan arrange a bed of rashers of
bacon.
"Cut off the head and neck of the ha leaving only the back and
the legs. Then place the hare at full length on the bed of bacon, on
its back. Cover it with another layer of bacon. Now all your bacon
rashers are used up.

'Now add the carrot; the onions; the 20 cloves of garlic; the 40
cloves of shallot;* the bouquet garni.
'Pour over the ha
(i) the 6 oz of red wine vinegar, and
(ii) a bottle and a halfof 2 year/old Macon (or Medoc).

'Season with pepper and salt in reasonable quantity.

'At one o'clock. The daubiere being thus arranged, put on the lid
and set the fire going (either a gas stove or an ordinary range). On
the top of the lid place 3 or 4. large pieces of charcoal in an
incandescent state, well alight and glowing.

'Regulate your heat so that the hare may cook for 3 hours, over
a gentle and regular fire, continuously.

'Second Operation (to be carried out during the first cooking of the hare)

'First chop exceedingly finely the four following ingredients,
chopping each one separately:
(i) 1 lb of bacon.
(ii) the heart, liver, and lungs of the hare,
(iii) 10 cloves of garlic,
(iv) 20 cloves of shallot.

'The chopping of the garlic and the shallots must ie so fine that each of
them attain as nearly as possible a molecular state.

'This is one of the first conditions of success of this marvellous
dish, in which the multiple and diverse perfumes and aromas
melt into a whole so harmonious that neither one dominates, nor
discloses its particular origin, and so arouse some preconceived
prejudice, however regrettable.

'The bacon, the insides of the hare, the garlic, and shallots being
chopped very fine, and separately, blend them all together
thoroughly, so as to obtain an absolutely perfect mixture. Keep
this mixture aside.

* In spite of the enormous quantity of garlic and shallots which enter
into the composition of lièvre a la royale, the remarkable fact is that
to a certain extent the two ingredients cancel each other out, so that the
uninitiated would hardly suspect their presence.

' Third Operation (from four o'clock until a quarter to seven)

'At four o'clock. Remove the stewpan from the fire. Take the hare
out very delicately; put it on a dish. Then remove all the debris of
the bacon, carrot, onions, garlic, shallot, which may be clinging
to it; return these debris to the pan.

'The Sauce. Now take a large deep dish and a sieve. Empty the
contents of the pan into the sieve, which you have placed over the
dish; with a small wooden pestle pound the contents of the sieve,
extracting all the juice, which forms a coulis in the dish.

'Mixing the coulis and the hachis (the chopped mixture). Now comes
the moment to make use of the mixture which was the subject of
the second operation. Incorporate this into the coulis.

'Heat the half bottle of wine left over from the first operation.
Pour this hot wine into the mixture of coulis and bachis and stir the
whole well together.

'At balf-past four. Return to the stewpan:
(i) the mixture of coulis and hachis,
(ii) the hare, together with any of the bones which may have
become detached during the cooking.

'Return the pan to the stove, with the same gentle and regular fire
underneath and on the top, for another 1 1/2 hours' cooking.

'At six o'clock. As the excess of fat, issuing from the necessary
quantity of bacon, will prevent you from judging the state of the
sauce, you must now proceed to operate a first removal of the fat. Your
work will not actually be completed until the sauce has become
sufficiently amalgamated to attain a consistence approximating to
that of a puree of potatoes; not quite, however, for if you tried to
make it too thick, you would end by so reducing it that there
would not be sufficient to moisten the flesh (by nature dry) of the
hare.

'Your hare having therefore had the fat removed, can continue
to cook, still on a very slow fin, until the moment comes for you to add
the blood which you have reserved with the utmost care as has
already been instructed.

"Fourth Operation (quarter of an hour before serving)

"At quarter to seven. The amalgamation of the sauce proceeding
successfully, a fourth and last operation will finally and rapidly
bring it to completion.

"Addition of the blood to the hare. With the addition of the blood, not
only will you hasten the amalgamation of the sauce but also give it
a fine brown colour; the darker it is the more appetizing. This
addition of the blood should not be made more than 30 minutes
before serving; it must also be preceded by a second removal of the fat.

"Therefore, effectively remove the fat; after which, without
losing a minute, turn to the operation of adding the blood.

"(i) Whip the blood with a fork, until, if any of it has become
curdled, it is smooth again. (Note: the optional addition of the
brandy mentioned at the beginning helps to prevent the curdling of
the blood.)

"(ii) Pour the blood into the sauce, taking care to stir the contents
of the pan from top to bottom and from right to left, so that the
blood will penetrate into every corner of the pan.

"Now taste; add pepper and salt if necessary. A little later (10
minutes at a maximum) get ready to serve.

"Arrangements for serving

"At seven o'clock. Remove from the pan your hare, whose volume
by this time has naturally somewhat shrunk.

"At any rate, in the centre of the serving dish, place all that still
has the consistency of meat, the bones, entirely denuded, and now
useless, being thrown away, and now finally around this hare en
compote pour the admirable sauce which has been so carefully
created.'

Needless to say (concludes the senator) that to use a knife to serve
the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.

* These times are given for a dinner to be served at seven o'clock.
--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
mailbox full to avoid spam. try me at website
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Mike Tommasi
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce Blood

On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:45:36 -0500, gerald > wrote:

>Lievre a la Royal is one of the most famous dishes utilizing Blood
>Sauce.
>
>Most Recipies call for cooking down a litre or so of red Rhone type
>wine.
>
>Strips of wild hare wrapped around foie gras with a blood sauce.
>Available in France in game season.
>
>In Paris, Le Cinq, Taillevent, l'Astor, among other majors. My
>personal favorite is Au Presoir in the 12th.



The most famous recipe with blood in the sauce is coq-au-vin.

It has been illegal (there we go again) to make it with blood for
years in France. Mainly because you can get pretty ill unless you can
guarantee that the chicken is of impeccable origin, and even than it
is russian roulette as to whether it is salmonella or something much
worse that you will get.

Mike
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gerald
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

The version withwhich I am familiar seems to come from Ali-Bab(Henri
Babinski)'s Gastronomie Practique first published in1907. It was
republished in 2001.

The red wine called for is"1 bottle very good red burgandy"

Babinski was an engineer, not a cook, apparently never a cook.



On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 17:32:59 +0100, Ian Hoare >
wrote:

>Salut/Hi gerald,
>
> le/on Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:45:36 -0500, tu disais/you said:-
>
>>Lievre a la Royal is one of the most famous dishes utilizing Blood
>>Sauce.

>
>And wonderful it is too. Patrick Ceaux, a young chef who recently took over
>near us, had it on the menu on alternate weeks this autumn. After all the
>years I've known about it, I was able to try it. Phenomenal, as you say,
>though we had it with a youngish good Médoc (sorry, forgot which "chef's
>choice").
>
>>Most Recipies call for cooking down a litre or so of red Rhone type
>>wine.

>
>Err....
>
>>Strips of wild hare wrapped around foie gras with a blood sauce.

>
>Nope. Sorry. No foie gras, and it's not strips.
>
>Have a look at one of the earliest written recipes as found in Elizabeth
>David's "Mediterranean food"
>
> LIEVRE A LA ROYALE
>
> This famous recipe for lièvre a la royale was invented by
> Senator Couteaux, who contributed regular articles to the Paris
> newspaper Le Temps. On November 29, 1898, instead of his usual
> political column, appeared this remarkable recipe. M. Couteaux
> related at length how he had spent a week in Poitou hunting the
> right kind of hare; how, the exactly suitable animal at last in his
> hands, he instantly took the train to Paris, sent out his invitations,
> and hurried off to consult his friend Spüller, who ran a well-known
> restaurant in the Rue Favart, to arrange the preparation and cook-
> ing of his hare for the following day. The dish takes from noon
> until 7 o'clock to prepare and cook, and Senator Couteaux tells
> how by 6 o'clock the exquisite aroma had penetrated the doors of
> Spüller's restaurant, floated down the street and out into the boule-
> vard, where the passers-by sniffed the scented air; an excitable
> crowd gathered, and the whole quartier was ‘mis en imoi'. If you ever
> feel like devoting the time (perhaps you need not afkr all spend a
> week catching your hare) and the ingredients to cooking this dish
> you will see that the senator was not exaggerating.
> I have translated the recipe as faithfully as possible. It is very
> lengthy and there are repetitions. But in those days there was plenty
> of space to fill up; and from the senator's precise instructions one
> can well imagine the delightful old gentleman bending over his
> ‘daubière', and the pride with which he presented this beautiful
> creation to his gourmet friends.
>
> Ingredients
>
> ‘You require a male hare, with red fur, killed if possible in
> mountainous country; of fine French descent (characterized by the
> light nervous elegance of head and limbs), weighing from s to 6
> pounds, that is to say older than a leveret but still adolescent. The
> important thing is that the hare should have been cleanly killed
> and so not have lost a drop of blood.
> ‘The fat to cook it: 2 or 3 tablespoons of goose fat, 1 lb of fat
> bacon rashers; 1 lb of bacon in one piece.
> Liquid: 6 oz of good red wine vinegar. Two bottles of Macon or
> Médoc, whichever you please, but in any case not less than 2 years
> old.
> ‘Utensils: A daubière, or oblong stewing pan, of well-tinned
> copper, 8 inches high, 12 inches long, 8 inches wide and possessed
> of a hermetically closing cover; a small bowl in which to preserve
> the blood of the hare, and later to stir it when it comes to incorporating
>it in the sauce; a double-handled vegetable chopper; a large
> shallow serving dish; a sieve; a small wooden pestle.
>
> ‘The wine to serve: Preferably a St Julien or Moulin à Vent.
>
>
> ‘Preliminary Preparations
>
> ‘Skin and clean the hare. Keep aside the heart, the liver, and the
> lungs. Keep aside also and with great care the blood. (It is tradi-
> tional to add 2 or 3 small glasses of fine old cognac to the blood; but
> this is not indispensable; M. Couteaux finally decided against this
> addition.)
> 1n the usual way prepare a medium-sized carrot, cut into four;
> 4 medium onions each stuck with a clove; 20 cloves of garlic; 40
> cloves of shallot; a bouquet garni, composed of a bay leaf, a sprig of
> thyme, and some pieces of parsley.
> ‘Get ready some charcoal, in large pieces, which you will presently
> be needing, burning fast.
>
> ‘First Operation (from half~past twelve until four 0' clock) *
>
> ‘At 12.30 coat the bottom and sides of the stewpan with the
> goose fat; then at the bottom of the pan arrange a bed of rashers of
> bacon.
> ‘Cut off the head and neck of the ha leaving only the back and
> the legs. Then place the hare at full length on the bed of bacon, on
> its back. Cover it with another layer of bacon. Now all your bacon
> rashers are used up.
>
>'Now add the carrot; the onions; the 20 cloves of garlic; the 40
>cloves of shallot;* the bouquet garni.
>'Pour over the ha
>(i) the 6 oz of red wine vinegar, and
>(ii) a bottle and a halfof 2 year/old Macon (or Medoc).
>
>'Season with pepper and salt in reasonable quantity.
>
>'At one o'clock. The daubiere being thus arranged, put on the lid
>and set the fire going (either a gas stove or an ordinary range). On
>the top of the lid place 3 or 4. large pieces of charcoal in an
>incandescent state, well alight and glowing.
>
>'Regulate your heat so that the hare may cook for 3 hours, over
>a gentle and regular fire, continuously.
>
>'Second Operation (to be carried out during the first cooking of the hare)
>
>'First chop exceedingly finely the four following ingredients,
>chopping each one separately:
>(i) 1 lb of bacon.
>(ii) the heart, liver, and lungs of the hare,
>(iii) 10 cloves of garlic,
>(iv) 20 cloves of shallot.
>
>'The chopping of the garlic and the shallots must ie so fine that each of
>them attain as nearly as possible a molecular state.
>
>'This is one of the first conditions of success of this marvellous
>dish, in which the multiple and diverse perfumes and aromas
>melt into a whole so harmonious that neither one dominates, nor
>discloses its particular origin, and so arouse some preconceived
>prejudice, however regrettable.
>
>'The bacon, the insides of the hare, the garlic, and shallots being
>chopped very fine, and separately, blend them all together
>thoroughly, so as to obtain an absolutely perfect mixture. Keep
>this mixture aside.
>
>* In spite of the enormous quantity of garlic and shallots which enter
>into the composition of lièvre a la royale, the remarkable fact is that
>to a certain extent the two ingredients cancel each other out, so that the
>uninitiated would hardly suspect their presence.
>
>' Third Operation (from four o'clock until a quarter to seven)
>
>'At four o'clock. Remove the stewpan from the fire. Take the hare
>out very delicately; put it on a dish. Then remove all the debris of
>the bacon, carrot, onions, garlic, shallot, which may be clinging
>to it; return these debris to the pan.
>
>'The Sauce. Now take a large deep dish and a sieve. Empty the
>contents of the pan into the sieve, which you have placed over the
>dish; with a small wooden pestle pound the contents of the sieve,
>extracting all the juice, which forms a coulis in the dish.
>
>'Mixing the coulis and the hachis (the chopped mixture). Now comes
>the moment to make use of the mixture which was the subject of
>the second operation. Incorporate this into the coulis.
>
>'Heat the half bottle of wine left over from the first operation.
>Pour this hot wine into the mixture of coulis and bachis and stir the
>whole well together.
>
>'At balf-past four. Return to the stewpan:
>(i) the mixture of coulis and hachis,
>(ii) the hare, together with any of the bones which may have
>become detached during the cooking.
>
>'Return the pan to the stove, with the same gentle and regular fire
>underneath and on the top, for another 1 1/2 hours' cooking.
>
>'At six o'clock. As the excess of fat, issuing from the necessary
>quantity of bacon, will prevent you from judging the state of the
>sauce, you must now proceed to operate a first removal of the fat. Your
>work will not actually be completed until the sauce has become
>sufficiently amalgamated to attain a consistence approximating to
>that of a puree of potatoes; not quite, however, for if you tried to
>make it too thick, you would end by so reducing it that there
>would not be sufficient to moisten the flesh (by nature dry) of the
>hare.
>
>'Your hare having therefore had the fat removed, can continue
>to cook, still on a very slow fin, until the moment comes for you to add
>the blood which you have reserved with the utmost care as has
>already been instructed.
>
> ‘Fourth Operation (quarter of an hour before serving)
>
> ‘At quarter to seven. The amalgamation of the sauce proceeding
> successfully, a fourth and last operation will finally and rapidly
> bring it to completion.
>
> ‘Addition of the blood to the hare. With the addition of the blood, not
> only will you hasten the amalgamation of the sauce but also give it
> a fine brown colour; the darker it is the more appetizing. This
> addition of the blood should not be made more than 30 minutes
> before serving; it must also be preceded by a second removal of the fat.
>
> ‘Therefore, effectively remove the fat; after which, without
> losing a minute, turn to the operation of adding the blood.
>
> ‘(i) Whip the blood with a fork, until, if any of it has become
> curdled, it is smooth again. (Note: the optional addition of the
> brandy mentioned at the beginning helps to prevent the curdling of
> the blood.)
>
> ‘(ii) Pour the blood into the sauce, taking care to stir the contents
> of the pan from top to bottom and from right to left, so that the
> blood will penetrate into every corner of the pan.
>
> ‘Now taste; add pepper and salt if necessary. A little later (10
> minutes at a maximum) get ready to serve.
>
> ‘Arrangements for serving
>
> ‘At seven o'clock. Remove from the pan your hare, whose volume
> by this time has naturally somewhat shrunk.
>
> ‘At any rate, in the centre of the serving dish, place all that still
> has the consistency of meat, the bones, entirely denuded, and now
> useless, being thrown away, and now finally around this hare en
> compote pour the admirable sauce which has been so carefully
> created.'
>
> Needless to say (concludes the senator) that to use a knife to serve
> the hare would be a sacrilege. A spoon alone is amply sufficient.
>
> * These times are given for a dinner to be served at seven o'clock.


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Ian Hoare
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Salut/Hi gerald,

le/on Sun, 01 Feb 2004 11:57:37 -0500, tu disais/you said:-

>The version withwhich I am familiar seems to come from Ali-Bab(Henri
>Babinski)'s Gastronomie Practique first published in1907. It was
>republished in 2001.
>
>The red wine called for is"1 bottle very good red burgandy"


I can live with the use of a bottle of very good burgundy. What I found was
interesting about the good Senator's recipe was that he insists that the
wine used should be "at least" 2 years old. Now, when I cook wine based
stews, whiuch I do quite a bit, I tend to go for slightly younger wines, I
find the rough edges seem to enhance the dish.

Actually another interesting thing about his recipe was the choices of
wines. Médoc or Macon, for example. It's hard to see what they have in
common other than the colour. Equally, the choice of drinking wines, a St
Julien (a village in the Médoc) or a Moulin à Vent, a Beaujolais village -
the most long lived, but nevertheless a Beaujolais. Very odd, IMO and while
I might agree with you about the use of a Rhone wine to drink WITH the dish,
I'd never in my wildest imaginings have plumped for a Beaujolais.

--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
mailbox full to avoid spam. try me at website


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Ian Hoare
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce Blood

Salut/Hi Mike Tommasi,

le/on Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:34:19 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

>On Sat, 31 Jan 2004 08:45:36 -0500, gerald > wrote:


>>Lievre a la Royal is one of the most famous dishes utilizing Blood
>>Sauce.
>>
>>Most Recipies call for cooking down a litre or so of red Rhone type
>>wine.
>>
>>Strips of wild hare wrapped around foie gras with a blood sauce.
>>Available in France in game season.
>>
>>In Paris, Le Cinq, Taillevent, l'Astor, among other majors. My
>>personal favorite is Au Presoir in the 12th.

>
>
>The most famous recipe with blood in the sauce is coq-au-vin.


May I demur VERY diffidently, and suggest that either Canard à la Rouennais,
or Civet de anything, would be dishes where the blood is even MORE crucial.


--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
mailbox full to avoid spam. try me at website
  #7 (permalink)   Report Post  
Mike Tommasi
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce Blood

On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 21:49:35 +0100, Ian Hoare >
wrote:

>>The most famous recipe with blood in the sauce is coq-au-vin.

>
>May I demur VERY diffidently, and suggest that either Canard à la Rouennais,
>or Civet de anything, would be dishes where the blood is even MORE crucial.


Salut mon ami,

ah, but I was not tslking about how CRUCIAL the blood was to the
recipe, just how FAMOUS the recipe was...

How do you get the blood to remain "in solution" so to speak, IOW not
to coagulate into globules (making the sauce a lot less appetizing)...
is it just a matter of keeping the temperature below a certain limit,
or is their some kind of "liant" to keep the whole thing emulsified?

Mike
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Michael Pronay
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Ian Hoare > wrote:

> ... a Moulin à Vent, a Beaujolais village - the most long lived,
> but nevertheless a Beaujolais.


Don't dismiss Moulin-à-Vent. I had two absolutely perfect examples
of aged Moulin-à-Vent from magnums from excellent vintages (1961
and 1985), drunk at age 15 to 20 from reputable producers (the
younger Chteau des Jacques; can't remember the older one, it was
at Georges Blanc in Vonnas 15 years ago). Nobody I know of (myself
included) would have been able to pin down blind Beaujolais &
Gamay. "A perfectly ripe Côte de Beaune", was the unanimous
verdict.

M.
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Ian Hoare
 
Posts: n/a
Default Blood Sauce Blood

Salut/Hi Mike Tommasi,

le/on Mon, 02 Feb 2004 07:44:51 +0100, tu disais/you said:-

>On Sun, 01 Feb 2004 21:49:35 +0100, Ian Hoare >
>wrote:
>
>>>The most famous recipe with blood in the sauce is coq-au-vin.

>>
>>May I demur VERY diffidently, and suggest that either Canard à la Rouennais,
>>or Civet de anything, would be dishes where the blood is even MORE crucial.


>ah, but I was not talking about how CRUCIAL the blood was to the
>recipe, just how FAMOUS the recipe was...


Yes... and (for me) the pressed duck is THE most famous recipe. Hence the
diffidence of my reply ;-))

>How do you get the blood to remain "in solution" so to speak, IOW not
>to coagulate into globules (making the sauce a lot less appetizing)...
>is it just a matter of keeping the temperature below a certain limit,
>or is their some kind of "liant" to keep the whole thing emulsified?


This was at the heart of the discussion in the good senator's recipe for
Lièvre à la royale.

I've heard of two different ways. One is to stir (for large quantities of
blood, by swirling your hand around in it (delicate shudder)) the blood
while it cools, the other is to stir in a glass of cognac.

>Mike


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Ian Hoare
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Ian Hoare
 
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Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Salut/Hi Michael Pronay,

le/on 2 Feb 2004 08:21:46 GMT, tu disais/you said:-

>Ian Hoare > wrote:
>
>> ... a Moulin à Vent, a Beaujolais village - the most long lived,
>> but nevertheless a Beaujolais.


>Don't dismiss Moulin-à-Vent. I had two absolutely perfect examples
>of aged Moulin-à-Vent from magnums from excellent vintages (1961
>and 1985), drunk at age 15 to 20 from reputable producers


> Nobody I know of (myself included) would have been able to pin down blind Beaujolais &
>Gamay. "A perfectly ripe Côte de Beaune", was the unanimous verdict.


I _think_ I might have, because I bought a dozen Moulin-à-Vent Ch
Moulin-à-Vent 1971 in auction years ago, and drank them over the ten years
from 1980 onwards. But you're quite right that old big Beaujolais does come
to resemble lighter Burgundies extremely closely. In fact I noticed this at
the Salon last weekend, with the '89 Morgon Joseph Chamonard had on
tasting, and chatted briefly about the similarity with the nice people
there, before buying a half dozen.

No, I wasn't dismissing Moulin-à-Vent at all, but only doubting it as a
match for Lièvre à la Royale with 60 cloves of garlic, 30 shallots and TWO
bottles of either Macon or Médoc, to say nothing of the gaminess of the
hare. I hesitate to disagree with the good senator, over a wine match with
HIS dish, but wonder all the same if something even more robust wouldn't be
better able to withstand the power of the dish.

--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
mailbox full to avoid spam. try me at website


  #11 (permalink)   Report Post  
Michael Pronay
 
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Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Ian Hoare > wrote:

> I _think_ I might have, because I bought a dozen Moulin-à-Vent
> Ch Moulin-à-Vent 1971 in auction years ago, and drank them over
> the ten years from 1980 onwards. But you're quite right that old
> big Beaujolais does come to resemble lighter Burgundies
> extremely closely.


Right you are. Anyhow, fine old Beaujolais to me definitely seems
closer to fine old lighter Burgundy than many lesser Burgundies
themselves, "lesser" in terms of intrinsic quality, not in term of
reputation of appellation or village/1er/grand cru status.

M.
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gerald
 
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Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Was all Beaujolais planted in Gamay for red in the 19c?
  #13 (permalink)   Report Post  
Ian Hoare
 
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Default Blood Sauce (VERY long & nearly OT)

Salut/Hi gerald,

le/on Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:29:32 -0500, tu disais/you said:-

>Was all Beaujolais planted in Gamay for red in the 19c?


I think so, though of course at the time, people were much LESS obsessed
with technical details like provenance and cepage, and more concerned with
whether the wine tasted good! I'm not defending that view, particularly,
though I think one can become TOO hypnotised. For exampe, in a light year,
is it a good thing or a bad thing to add a little beefy, high alcohol wine
from elsewhere? Is it better to chaptalise, or should one stick to 100% of
the stated wine from the stated year, EVEN if the wine is less palatable?
And given that a blended table wine sells for about 1/10th the price of a
top burgundy, is it reasonable to expect the grower to say what he's done?


--
All the Best
Ian Hoare
http://www.souvigne.com
mailbox full to avoid spam. try me at website
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