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Eric White
 
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Default TNs: A few older Cal Cabs, 83 Silver Oak, 84 & 85 Far Niente, 85 Smith-Madrone

The other night we had a belated holiday feast with family and friends
and took the opportunity to crack into some interesting older vino -
here are my notes:

1983 Silver Oak Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Having not expected much from this bottle, I have to admit that I was
fairly pleasantly surprised! This won’t go down in anyone’s book as a
‘great’ wine, but I was amazed that it did in fact show signs of life.
The cork was in terrific condition, saturated only about 1/4” up.
Significant bricking surround a bright clear ruby core, while the nose
offers dusty roses, tobacco, cherries, and light spice. Tannins are
non-existent and this is light bodied, with fruit certainly in
decline, but still an enjoyable wine. 84 points.

1984 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon
Another cork in spectacular condition, saturated only about 1/4 of the
distance up from the base. Moderate bricking surround a beautiful dark
purple core. Initially a little stinky, that blew off in minutes to
reveal a fabulous nose of dark cherries, cedar, leather, earth, and
plum. Tannins are fully resolved, leaving a plush, silky-smooth
texture, terrific balance, and complex sweet fruit. Finishes medium
short, this wine has held up remarkably well. 92 points, drink now.

1985 Far Niente Cabernet Sauvignon
Yet another cork in great condition, maybe 1/3 saturated. Even darker
than the ’84, a dark purple with very little bricking. Slight vegetal
aromas detracted slightly from the nose, which also offered up dark
plum, currants, leather, and spice. In the mouth the most striking
aspect of this wine were the still substantial tannins! Good fruit is
present, but my concern is that it may not live until the tannins
subside. Overall a pleasant wine, but overshadowed by the elegance
offered by the 1984. 89 points.

1985 Smith-Madrone Spring Mnt. Cabernet Sauvignon
Excellent cork, firm with maybe 1/8th inch of saturation. The color on
this wine is blood red with moderate bricking on the edge. On the nose
this wine could easily be mistaken for aged Bordeaux, delivering
crushed berries, graphite, earth, and plum. On the palate primary
fruit is still present, if perhaps beginning to fade a bit, and is
married to those lovely secondary nuances of aged cab. Still bright
acidity and notable, but not prominent tannins lead to a medium-short
finish. 90 points, drink now.

Eric White
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