Had some people over for the first Bocce tourney of the season –
Late, I know, but our weather has been unusual and unpredictable
lately.

After a first bocce game was sprinkled out (maybe we gave up too
easily due to excessive thirst) we started in on wine and food.

Opened a couple of venerable whites with some nice pate:

1995 Dom. Closel Savennieres Cuve Speciale – I had been concerned
about premature oxidation on some of these long lived wines, and the
colour of this one gave me pause, being light yellow, but there was no
sign of maderisation in this one. Lots of nuttiness (almonds?) and
mature fruit, an interesting wine with a vey long finish, still
carrying amazing acidity, although the impression of slight RS I had
when this was released is now gone and it finishes quite dry.

1993 Ch. de Beaucastel Vieilles Vignes Roussanne – this wine was right
in line as far as colour was concerned, a light amber colour. The nose
was slightly sweet, with an apricot component that became more
pronounced with airing. Viscous and smooth on palate, finishing very
long, quite dry and with no notes of oxidation.

We switched over to a southern French pasta dish, angelhair pasta with
Prosciutto, black olives, fresh thyme and lemon zest dressed with EVOO
and lemon juice.

1998 Ch. des Tours Reserve Cotes du Rhone – recently found in the
cellar while searching for something ele – nose developed alright, but
ultimately to old and a bit flat, so consigned to the cooking wine
supply and we opened my back up…

1998 Lesec Dom, Coursedon St. Joseph La Sensonne – black olive and
leather nose, still holding lots of fairly soft tannin and no rush.
Very nice.

I think it was about this point where we went out to bravely try
another bocce match and burn off some Rhone. The match was handily
won by the team yours truly was on, and was distinguished by Coop
letting loose many of his patented bombing shots, none of which struck
anything much as I recall, but he may tell it differently.

Back to the house for cheese and:

2000 Brusset Les Hautes de Montmirail – much less traditional sweeter
nose, slightly sweet entry, well balanced, and of decent length with
soft tannins. Opened in the glass and improved.

2000 Ch. de Beaucastel – I continue to be surprised (slow learner?) at
how approachable these wines have now become, relatively early in
their life, compared to the older vintages. Dark wine with a ripe
truffley nose, sweet entry, then smooth slightly tannic midpalate,
followed by a long smooth drawn out finish. Lots of stuffing and an
impression of Grenache you don’t always get with this wine.

Bill S. wrote:

>
> 1995 Dom. Closel Savennieres Cuve Speciale – I had been concerned
> about premature oxidation on some of these long lived wines, and the
> colour of this one gave me pause, being light yellow, but there was no
> sign of maderisation in this one. Lots of nuttiness (almonds?) and
> mature fruit, an interesting wine with a vey long finish, still
> carrying amazing acidity, although the impression of slight RS I had
> when this was released is now gone and it finishes quite dry.

Good to hear that this wine is doing well, Bill. It seems that more
recent Savennieres are a lot more suspect in their development.


> 2000 Ch. de Beaucastel – I continue to be surprised (slow learner?) at
> how approachable these wines have now become, relatively early in
> their life, compared to the older vintages. Dark wine with a ripe
> truffley nose, sweet entry, then smooth slightly tannic midpalate,
> followed by a long smooth drawn out finish. Lots of stuffing and an
> impression of Grenache you don’t always get with this wine.

You're not the first person to make this observation, but I'm still
hesitant to open my CNdPs that young. You, I'm sure, also have a
backlog of older ones to contend with. I'm still sitting on '89, '90,
'94, '95 and '98-'01 according to my records, and of them the '94 is
most likely first to go.

Mark Lipton
--
alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.cwdjr.net

As you know, I like my wine mature, so I am not stampeding to open
young bottles.

I plan a Beaucastel vertical from 1989 later this spring (going to be
in the neighbourhood?) and we'll see what we'll see.

wrote:
> As you know, I like my wine mature, so I am not stampeding to open
> young bottles.
>
> I plan a Beaucastel vertical from 1989 later this spring (going to be
> in the neighbourhood?) and we'll see what we'll see.
>

Alas, no plans to head out your direction, but I'll read your report
with great interest. One of the major issues will be how '95 is faring.
Several credible individuals have claimed that '95 isn't aging in a
very salutary fashion and that some of the wines are showing signs of
breaking up.

Mark Lipton

--
alt.food.wine FAQ: http://winefaq.cwdjr.net