TN: 2002 Closel Papillon (and a Tarheel victory!)
 

So dinner was pasta with a Pierre Franey recipe for bay scallops in
cream sauce, with a broccoli rabe/pea side and the 2002 Closel "Clos
du Papillon" Savennieres. There has been some recent buzz about the
'02 Closels going off a cliff. This has a worrisome deep gold color
as it poured, and I am concerned that I get some apple peel notes that
might be the harbinger of imminent oxidation. But those notes seem to
fade over dinner. There's a lot of a wooly Chenin note, rich deep pit
fruit and citrus, a honied edge to the finish though it seems dry. Not
going over a cliff, but seems mature. But I revisit towards the end of
the NCAA championship game (not much of a game, but as a UNC grad I
enjoy the blowout!). Whoa, very impressive. If anything fruit seems
younger, there's a deeper mineral edge, finish is long and lively. I
was going to say B+/B drink now, but that last glass makes me think I
can leave my other two for a bit, I'd give final glass A-

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.
*