Tonight, with a simple dinner of roasted chicken, potatoes and brussels
sprouts, I opened a bottle of a recently acquired Burgundy:

1990 Hospices de Beaune Corton 'Cuvée Docteur Peste' (Louis Jadot)
color: dark garnet at the center, going orange at the rim
nose: pencil lead, dark, ripe fruit, some heat
palate: rich, medium bodied, ripe fruit in the black cherry-red plum
continuum, modest acidity, slight heat in the finish

This wine was an attractive but foursquare example of Burgundy. The
alcohol level and ripeness of the fruit can be laid at the feet of the
year, almost certainly, though to my taste this did not suffer from the
"roasted" character that some have tarred '90 Burgundies with. Jean
likened this wine to something halfway between a good California Pinot
Noir and a more traditional Burgundy. Had I tasted this blind, would I
have guessed Grand Cru Burgundy? Probably not, but it actually went
fabulously well with the chicken and was a pleasure to drink. We'll not
hold on to our remaining two bottles very long, but try them with duck
and rabbit as the opportunity arises.

Mark Lipton
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