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Default TN: Several Bdx, few Burgs, one Champagne at La Sirene

A few NY area wine geeks got together last night to welcome Alex R ,
visting from Bordeaux, and Patrick M, flying in from Colorado. We
gathered at La Sirene in SoHo, Management kindly let us order off the
early bird prix fixe though we were later, food was good but I think
next time I'll order a la carte again. I did enjoy my onion soup and
duck liver salad.

Opener was a bubbly from Jeff, the NV Jacquesson No. 730. I loved the
728 & 729, and initially thought this a bit of a disappointment. Not a
lot of fruit, not a lot of breadiness, not a lot of anything. But air
helped a lot, and a glass later was tasty even when warm - leesy,
nutty, with "apple betty" fruit. B-/C+ cold, B warm (I'm betting if
well-aired and cold it would be even better).

1993 Morey-Coffinet "Les Caillerets" Chassagne-Montrachet 1er
A little reticent at first, this opened nicely. Fairly typical for the
vintage, with high but for my tastes balanced acidity. Full-bodied,
pear fruit with nuts and mineral notes, just a little oak still
apparent. This was last one, showing better than about 5 years ago,
I'd say drink up, but no hurry. B+

2004 Rene & Vincent Dauvissat "Sechet" Chablis 1er
This was also really in a shell at first. Acids and a funny cheesy
note were all I got. After a while some Granny Smith and lemon notes.
I never got much minerality here, but probably a function of its
youth. B?

1989 Comte Armand Pommard 1er Cru Clos des Epeneaux
At Ian's request I had grabbed this at last minute instead of a '70
Canon. Worried the warm vintage and the Armand style might have led to
an early demise, but this was quite lively and even young. Quite
tannic, but with a solid body of black cherry and plum fruit, some
earthiness, a little vanillin note. Develops a fairly plush texture
with some time. I like, but can't help thinking a bit more acidic
backbone would make this more elegant and delineated. I'll give it a B/
B+, lovers of the style might rank a bit higher.

1989 L'Evangile (Pomerol)
This is a wine I loved before, and often kick myself for only getting
a couple of bottles when CSW had at a good price few years ago.
Despite less than optimal stemware (Chris kindly loaned me one, but
also had to use restaurant stems, a bit more rudimentary than ones
they had last time), with some air this showed class. Still young,
ripe cassis and blackberry liqueur, a hint of saddle leather, some
tannins. Needs time,but my red WOTN. Thanks Ian. B+/A-

1996 Lafon-Rochet (St Estephe)
Alas, corked!

1995 Haut-Bailly (Pessac-Leognan)
Continuing the theme of the night, tight and reticent at first. But
one could sense the quality from the beginning, and it started to open
up to a beautiful Graves. Red and black currants, a strong streak of
ferric/gravel minerality, a touch of tobacco, medium bodied. Elegant
Graves. Makes me wonder why I don't have more Haut Bailly. B+, with
much upside.

1996 Gloria (St Julien)
I told Alex that Gloria (the '82) was first wine to make me really pay
attention. I remember not being impressed by the '96 near release, but
this has turned out nicely. Soft, round, ready. with dark plum fruit,
mostly resolved tannins. B

2001 Nairac (Barsac)
I think this is my first ever Nairac. Lighter style of Sauternes, with
that vivid 2001 acidity. Tropical fruit, a touch of vanilla, lighter
edge of botrytis than some. Very nice. B+

Nice night, nice group, hope Patrick and Alex enjoy rest of their
stay.

Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent
wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't
drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no
promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency.



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