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TN: Vouvray, Auxey, and Jumilla at Hearth
Thursday was a long long day with no wine, so Friday I was ready. I
took a rainy drive down to Tribeca, picked up Oswaldo, then headed to East Village to meet Betsy and Joe, who had been playing an opera showcase at NYU. The winebar we wanted to meet at (www.wineisterroir.com) was packed, but after a cellphone retrieval incident we met at the winebar's sister restaurant,. Hearth. They squeezed us in without reservations, and we had a nice quiet table in the back. We started with an amuse of warm red lentil (couldn't see the red) soup with lemon oil. Then I had a great dish of fava beans and pecorino with oregano. Betsy had a tasty halibut cheek. My main was good Berksire pork, with a morel stuffed with sausage, along with some veggies. Betsy had lamb pappardelle. We were pretty happy with the food. We started with a bottle of the 2006 Pinon "Cuvee Tradition" Vouvray. This was good, but didn't quite appeal as much as previous bottle (I think it might have been the match, a funny interaction with the favas and pecorino). Off-dry, citrus, a little Chenin wooliness. I liked more without the food. B With the mains, we had a bottle of the 2000 Michel Prunier "Clos du Val" Auxey-Duresses 1er. Oswaldo's call, I had never tried this producer before. Good call Oswaldo! Very pretty Pinot. Opens with a nose of cherry marked with woodsmoke. In glass it develops a more earthy edge. This is delicate without being thin, not a wine for those that worship size, but an excellent light to mid weight for a dinner wine. Never heard much about Prunier before, but this was good enough that Oswaldo and I decided to split a 6-pack. B++ Betsy and I split a cheese plate, with Ossau Vielle and Crater Lake Blue. I was leaning towards an LBV, but Oswaldo mentioned he had tried another vintage of the sweet Monastrell offered and liked. So I got a glass of the 2004 Olivares "Dulce Monastrell (Jumilla). Very interesting wine- Oswaldo had compared to a Banyuls, and it definitely had a similar style- thicker texture, toffee and fig fruit, etc. But this had a very unusual -and very apparent- note of green olives on top. At first I wasn't sure I liked that note, but it was almost non- existent on the palate, and this was a nice wine (and a beautiful match with the blue). B+ Grade disclaimer: I'm a very easy grader, basically A is an excellent wine, B a good wine, C mediocre. Anything below C means I wouldn't drink at a party where it was only choice. Furthermore, I offer no promises of objectivity, accuracy, and certainly not of consistency. * |
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