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Default Alsace and Burgundy

An interesting evening of tasting Alsatian and Burgundian wines blind
with a matching menu.

Albert Mann Cremant d'Alsace (nv) - what better way to start the
event? Simple yeasty nose, fresh and clean on palate with decent
acidity.

2000 Albert Mann Gewurztraminer Steingrubler - a bit light in the
nose at first although easily spotted as Gewurz, but that changed
considerably over about 15 minutes as it opened up , to give lots of
pear and spice. Good fruit, significant weight and a good long finish.
I thought this was drinking very well now and continuing to improve;
another taster thought it might have been better a couple of years ago.
Does it rate the score Parker gave it (94)? I think it is at least
close.

1997 Ostertag Vendage Tardive 'Fronholz' - I'd have put this
later with the cheese, but perhaps the restaurant saw the same varietal
and didn't look any deeper (or didn't know what VT wine was). Not
as heavy as some VTs, it showed the sweetness clearly in the noise,
which had the added element of lychee not seen in the previous wine.
Very smooth and quite good.

1992 Weinbach Gewurztraminer 'Hengst' - no varietal
characteristic in the nose at all, although a hint of spiciness
developed with time. What did come out was some oak, and the wine was
medium bodied with lower acidity than the younger examples. I have
always found it a mistake to hold Gewurz for the long haul as most
decline in the very qualities of 'gewurziness' that we hold dear.
Not bad, and some interesting notes in it, but my bet is that this wine
would have drunk much better 5 years ago.

2002 Verget St. Romain - the segue to white Burgundy lost me on the
way. Ripe nose, bit flabby in the mouth (but remember the crisp wines
we were comparing it to), and a bit of oxidation indicated this one was
a bit long in the tooth.

1985 Faiveley Echezaux - high point of the reds! Excellent nose of
the mostly non-pongy variety - just pure old fruit with a bare tough
of animal, and a decided coffee element that popped up a bit later on.
Smooooth and supple, eventually ending up a tad acidic, a clue that
the wine is probably in gentle decline but still hanging in there.

1996 Desauney-Bissey Vosne Romanee - evaluation was difficult as the
wine was slightly corked and that casts any judgements made on it in
doubt as you never know to what degree the rest of the wine, and in
particular the fruit has also been affected. The basic balance was
decent and it had good weight, but the fruit seemed a bit muted and
there seemed to be sulphur as much as TCA in the nose.

2005 Joie "A Noble Blend" - a BC wine, present with prior
approval of the organiser, made from various German and Alsatian
varietals. Very light colour and I spotted it right off the bat as a BC
wine because it had that identifiable amateur wine making sort of raw
note in the nose. OK on palate I suppose, but light and forgettable.
This one won't be making the Alsatians lose any sleep.

2002 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Herrenweg de Turckheim - lovely to hit a
good Riesling nose! Some colour, an almost spirity hint at the tip of
the tongue, and solid fruit in the middle, ending with sufficient
acidity that it should have a nice long life. I'd have swapped
positions with this and the Ostertag, had I been ordering the wines.

Great fun as we so seldom focus on Alsace!

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Oops - that 1992 should of course be Zind Humbrecht.

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I agree with you re Gewurz. I like a few years bottle age to let it
integrate and get out of the total primary stage. But not sure I've had
many over 10 that I wouldn't have preferred at 5-8.

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I should say that's for table wines, for dessert I can see a bit more
aging.

DaleW wrote:
> I agree with you re Gewurz. I like a few years bottle age to let it
> integrate and get out of the total primary stage. But not sure I've had
> many over 10 that I wouldn't have preferred at 5-8.


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