For the holiday weekend, I picked up several Oregon Pinot Noirs, rolled
out the grill, and enjoyed the moment. I wanted to share these notes
with you.

----------------------------------------------------

1. 2003 Stevenson-Barrie Pinot Noir

Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Alcohol: 14%
Bottling Notes: Unfined

Color and Appearance: Clear, vibrant ruby red. Insanely viscous --
long, drawn-out legs continued for a full six minutes after tasting(!).

Aroma: Cherry, strawberry, leather, oak, smoke, and clove. Presented
lovely bouquet upon opening, and became much more complex with
breathing.

Taste and Finish: Fruit-forward berry. Soft, succulent, silky on the
palate. Balanced acids. Smooth, gracefully waning finish. The tiniest
zest of pepper at the very end.

Pairing Suggestions: Grilled lamb stuffed with rosemary sprigs and
garlic. Cedar plank BBQ'd salmon. Simple greens with oil and vinegar.

Overall Opinion: This is from a recently-new producer, and the first
wine of their label that I've ever tried. What a fantastic wine.
Despite its initially robust, oaky character, it opened up and showed a
lovely feminine quality you'd typically expect from a Pinot Noir. It's
nice to find a "gentle" Oregon Pinot Noir given the "cherry bomb"
trends exhibited by some local wineries.

----------------------------------------------------

2. 2001 Iris Hill Pinot Noir

Appellation: Oregon
Alcohol: 11.9%

Color and Appearance: Light ruby red, very clear.

Aroma: Bright cherry and wild berry.

Taste and Finish: Brief fruitiness was overpowered by a tart, acidic
finish. Additional breathing only accentuated these characteristics.

Pairing Suggestions: Tums chewable antacids.

Overall Opinion: Disappointing. Many Oregon Pinots that need mellowing
do so after four years in the bottle. This one, however, already seems
well past its prime, and I couldn't help but think it was this way to
begin with. 11.9% is quite low alcohol content for such a P.N. -- which
leads me to wonder if the vintner didn't try diluting it down to cut
the acidity.

----------------------------------------------------

3. Cardwell Hill Cellars Pinot Noir

Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Alcohol: 13.1%

Color and Appearance: Deep red. Moderate legs.

Aroma: Oak and berry, but a distinct sweat/musty/geranium odor soon
came to the forefront.

Taste and Finish: Surprisingly soft and supple. Nice cherry notes and a
touch of spice.

Pairing Suggestions: None.

Overall Opinion: This is a recently-new producer. Unfortunately, I
would not recommend it. The geranium odors are indicative of oxidation
from not enough Sulphur and/or unsanitary conditions during
fermentation. 90 minutes of breathing helped a bit, but this wine's
fate was sealed prior to bottling.

----------------------------------------------------

4. 2003 Stag Hollow Pinot Noir

Appellation: Yamhill-Carlton (Willamette Valley), Oregon
Alcohol: 14.9%
Bottling Notes:

Color and Appearance: Brilliant red-maroon. Ample viscosity with long
legs and sheets.

Aroma: Quite complex, a nasal treat that continued to surprise for well
over an hour as it began to breathe. Initial waves of cherry, smoke,
and earth eventually gave way to richer, spicier plum, vanilla, and
leather.

Taste and Finish: Rich and smooth at each tasting interval. Medium
length finish, smooth the entire time. Well-balanced acids.

Pairing Suggestions: BBQ grilled chicken with pan-seared mushrooms.
Zucchini grilled in olive oil with fresh margarom, parsley, and
oregano. Italian paysan loaf spread with brie.

Overall Opinion: A wine like this demands its own timeline and space in
which to open up. Uncork, decant, and watch patiently from a distance.
Sample, and wait. Repeat multiple times over 90 minutes, and serve.

----------------------------------------------------

5. 2005 Evasham Wood Pinot Noir

Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Alcohol: 13%
Price: $15

Color and Appearance: A dark, ruby red. Thick in appearance. Long legs
quickly dissipated. A bit of sediment along the inner edge of the
glass, but hardly enough to bother over.

Aroma: Earthy, mineral, plum and oak.

Taste and Finish: Jammy, with a lengthy, moderately spicey finish.

Pairing Suggestions: Grilled lamb or chicken. This one has enough zest
to be compatible with traditional Shiraz pairings -- peppery, grilled,
heavier/richer red meats and dishes, etc.

Overall Opinion: A lovely wine, especially given the price. I noted the
sediment, and simply reverted to the Stevenson-Barrie -- in that the
vintner perhaps chose to leave "all the good things" in the wine and
forego fining.

----------------------------------------------------

Whether this weekend is a three-day holiday for you or not (Labor Day
here in the States), I hope you will all take a moment to relax and
enjoy your favorite wine.

Cheers,

David Anderson
OregonWines.com

> 5. 2005 Evasham Wood Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
> Alcohol: 13%
> Price: $15

>
> > Overall Opinion: A lovely wine, especially given the price. I noted the
> sediment, and simply reverted to the Stevenson-Barrie -- in that the
> vintner perhaps chose to leave "all the good things" in the wine and
> forego fining.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------

Evesham Wood is the only one of these I was familiar with. I've
generally liked their wines. This made me realize some friends and I
never followed through on an idea for some blind OR Pinots,
specifically Evesham Wood "vs." St Innocent, since I believe they both
bottle some of the same vineyards (7 Springs and Temperance). Thanks
for notes.

Can;t help but notice the range of alcohol in those iwnes; 11.9% at one end,
14.9% at the other!


"Dave" > wrote in message
ups.com...
> For the holiday weekend, I picked up several Oregon Pinot Noirs, rolled
> out the grill, and enjoyed the moment. I wanted to share these notes
> with you.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> 1. 2003 Stevenson-Barrie Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
> Alcohol: 14%
> Bottling Notes: Unfined
>
> Color and Appearance: Clear, vibrant ruby red. Insanely viscous --
> long, drawn-out legs continued for a full six minutes after tasting(!).
>
> Aroma: Cherry, strawberry, leather, oak, smoke, and clove. Presented
> lovely bouquet upon opening, and became much more complex with
> breathing.
>
> Taste and Finish: Fruit-forward berry. Soft, succulent, silky on the
> palate. Balanced acids. Smooth, gracefully waning finish. The tiniest
> zest of pepper at the very end.
>
> Pairing Suggestions: Grilled lamb stuffed with rosemary sprigs and
> garlic. Cedar plank BBQ'd salmon. Simple greens with oil and vinegar.
>
> Overall Opinion: This is from a recently-new producer, and the first
> wine of their label that I've ever tried. What a fantastic wine.
> Despite its initially robust, oaky character, it opened up and showed a
> lovely feminine quality you'd typically expect from a Pinot Noir. It's
> nice to find a "gentle" Oregon Pinot Noir given the "cherry bomb"
> trends exhibited by some local wineries.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> 2. 2001 Iris Hill Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Oregon
> Alcohol: 11.9%
>
> Color and Appearance: Light ruby red, very clear.
>
> Aroma: Bright cherry and wild berry.
>
> Taste and Finish: Brief fruitiness was overpowered by a tart, acidic
> finish. Additional breathing only accentuated these characteristics.
>
> Pairing Suggestions: Tums chewable antacids.
>
> Overall Opinion: Disappointing. Many Oregon Pinots that need mellowing
> do so after four years in the bottle. This one, however, already seems
> well past its prime, and I couldn't help but think it was this way to
> begin with. 11.9% is quite low alcohol content for such a P.N. -- which
> leads me to wonder if the vintner didn't try diluting it down to cut
> the acidity.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> 3. Cardwell Hill Cellars Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
> Alcohol: 13.1%
>
> Color and Appearance: Deep red. Moderate legs.
>
> Aroma: Oak and berry, but a distinct sweat/musty/geranium odor soon
> came to the forefront.
>
> Taste and Finish: Surprisingly soft and supple. Nice cherry notes and a
> touch of spice.
>
> Pairing Suggestions: None.
>
> Overall Opinion: This is a recently-new producer. Unfortunately, I
> would not recommend it. The geranium odors are indicative of oxidation
> from not enough Sulphur and/or unsanitary conditions during
> fermentation. 90 minutes of breathing helped a bit, but this wine's
> fate was sealed prior to bottling.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> 4. 2003 Stag Hollow Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Yamhill-Carlton (Willamette Valley), Oregon
> Alcohol: 14.9%
> Bottling Notes:
>
> Color and Appearance: Brilliant red-maroon. Ample viscosity with long
> legs and sheets.
>
> Aroma: Quite complex, a nasal treat that continued to surprise for well
> over an hour as it began to breathe. Initial waves of cherry, smoke,
> and earth eventually gave way to richer, spicier plum, vanilla, and
> leather.
>
> Taste and Finish: Rich and smooth at each tasting interval. Medium
> length finish, smooth the entire time. Well-balanced acids.
>
> Pairing Suggestions: BBQ grilled chicken with pan-seared mushrooms.
> Zucchini grilled in olive oil with fresh margarom, parsley, and
> oregano. Italian paysan loaf spread with brie.
>
> Overall Opinion: A wine like this demands its own timeline and space in
> which to open up. Uncork, decant, and watch patiently from a distance.
> Sample, and wait. Repeat multiple times over 90 minutes, and serve.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> 5. 2005 Evasham Wood Pinot Noir
>
> Appellation: Willamette Valley, Oregon
> Alcohol: 13%
> Price: $15
>
> Color and Appearance: A dark, ruby red. Thick in appearance. Long legs
> quickly dissipated. A bit of sediment along the inner edge of the
> glass, but hardly enough to bother over.
>
> Aroma: Earthy, mineral, plum and oak.
>
> Taste and Finish: Jammy, with a lengthy, moderately spicey finish.
>
> Pairing Suggestions: Grilled lamb or chicken. This one has enough zest
> to be compatible with traditional Shiraz pairings -- peppery, grilled,
> heavier/richer red meats and dishes, etc.
>
> Overall Opinion: A lovely wine, especially given the price. I noted the
> sediment, and simply reverted to the Stevenson-Barrie -- in that the
> vintner perhaps chose to leave "all the good things" in the wine and
> forego fining.
>
> ----------------------------------------------------
>
> Whether this weekend is a three-day holiday for you or not (Labor Day
> here in the States), I hope you will all take a moment to relax and
> enjoy your favorite wine.
>
> Cheers,
>
> David Anderson
> OregonWines.com
>

Ric wrote:
> Can;t help but notice the range of alcohol in those iwnes; 11.9% at one end,
> 14.9% at the other!

Also notice that the high alcohol ones are all from 2003 -- a long warm
growing season in Oregon and elsewhere, that produced a lot of very
ripe (read: high sugar/high alcohol) grapes.

Hi Ric and AyTee,

> > Can;t help but notice the range of alcohol in those iwnes; 11.9% at one end,
> > 14.9% at the other!

Yeah... sometimes I wonder if the vintners here have an alterior
motive, but...

I believe federal law mandates a wine can contain up to 14.9% alcohol.
Above 15%, it falls into a class of fortified/dessert wines. I find
this designation odd, as in recent years, specialized strains of yeast
have been developed (albeit for malt beverages) that can push alcohol
content upwards of 25% without fortification!

> Also notice that the high alcohol ones are all from 2003 -- a long warm
> growing season in Oregon and elsewhere, that produced a lot of very
> ripe (read: high sugar/high alcohol) grapes.

Many Oregon red wines tend to contain higher alcohol content. Recent
warmer summers have no doubt helped them along, but even so, my
impression is that in cooler years, some of the vineyards are willing
to risk leaving the grapes hang for an extra week or two (knowing that
rainy season could strike at any time and potentially ruin the crop). I
do recall that 2003 resulted in a relative glut of some really good
wines.

Tonight is no exception -- enjoying a Freja Cellars 2003 Pinot Noir
(*only* 13%). Lovely currant and bright cherry, oak and earth. A tad
peppery. Fantastic with the turkey, basil, and red bell pepper meatloaf
we baked this evening. Also great with fresh focaccia and sliced, aged
Asiago cheese. ssh! Don't tell my dietician.

Cheers,

David

Dave wrote:
> Hi Ric and AyTee,
>
[...]

>
> I believe federal law mandates a wine can contain up to 14.9% alcohol.
> Above 15%, it falls into a class of fortified/dessert wines. I find
> this designation odd, as in recent years, specialized strains of yeast
> have been developed (albeit for malt beverages) that can push alcohol
> content upwards of 25% without fortification!
>

At 15% and above, wine is taxed at about 3 times the rate of "normal"
alcohol wines.
Correct. The law dates from a time before the alcohol-tolerant yeasts
were developed, under the assumption that any wine with greater than
about 14% must be fortified.
At least that is my understanding of the justification for this
particular class designation in the USA.

There may also be a fashion issue. Big wines are in style for the
moment, and high alcohol is part of that.

Andy

> At 15% and above, wine is taxed at about 3 times the rate of "normal"
> alcohol wines.
> Correct. The law dates from a time before the alcohol-tolerant yeasts
> were developed, under the assumption that any wine with greater than
> about 14% must be fortified.
> At least that is my understanding of the justification for this
> particular class designation in the USA.
>
> There may also be a fashion issue. Big wines are in style for the
> moment, and high alcohol is part of that.

Aha! Of course - the reason for staying under the 15% bar no doubt has
less to do with designation, and more to do with good old fashioned tax
evasion.

It's interesting to note that in the past few years, an incredibly
alcohol-tolerant brewing yeast was developed. It was developed by
Wyeast here in Hood River, can produce beers upwards of 25%, and
recently was featured on the commercial side by Sam Adams in one of
their "specialty" ales.

It would be curious to note how 25% ales fall given the Federal laws...
and how increasing production of such ales might affect designations
and or tax rates down the road...

Cheers,

David

Dave wrote:
> It's interesting to note that in the past few years, an incredibly
> alcohol-tolerant brewing yeast was developed. It was developed by
> Wyeast here in Hood River, can produce beers upwards of 25%, and
> recently was featured on the commercial side by Sam Adams in one of
> their "specialty" ales.

Omigod! Ale with 25% alcohol. Scary.

AyTee wrote:
> Dave wrote:
>> It's interesting to note that in the past few years, an incredibly
>> alcohol-tolerant brewing yeast was developed. It was developed by
>> Wyeast here in Hood River, can produce beers upwards of 25%, and
>> recently was featured on the commercial side by Sam Adams in one of
>> their "specialty" ales.
>
> Omigod! Ale with 25% alcohol. Scary.
>

I've heard it was quite good, though at $100 US per bottle I passed on
it. That's for 24 ounces. I like good beer, but I'd rather spend a few
bucks on some Corsendonk dubbel.

Though the Sam Adams was packaged in a mini copper (or copper-looking)
brew kettle...

-ben